All I need for my 1991 Honda CRX to have DA rear disc brakes are the brakes itself...

but do i need the knuckle setup, break booster, and the master cylinder?

Will anyone just make a list for me telling me what to pick up from the junkyard so the brakes will work, im goign to the junkyard tomarrow or friday and i want to know what to get so i dont have to go back...thx everyone!

Some questions:

-When I do the brake conversion, is it going to make the rear wheels stick out a little bit? or will it be normal?
-Will the rear discs allow me to still roll on my classic 13" 1983 civic wheels?
-Will 86-89 integra seats bolt right into the 91 dx crx?
-Will the seats sit stock in the car? height wise?

thx for all the help!!!

 

you should get the whole rear trailing arms, e-brake cables, rubber brake lines, & the proportioning valve (it's bolted to the passenger shock tower).

13's will still fit

master cylinder w/brake booster would be a nice upgrade, but not necessary

 

i just picked all that stuff up the other day... minus the proportioning valve. is that necessary?

 

any seat help?

 

Proportioning valve is not necessary; most agree its better to swap it, but its based on preference not necessity.

 

I JUST finished this brake swap. The prop valve is NOT necessary in my opinion. You just need to bleed your brakes really good. REALLY good. Possibly bench bleed your MC if you broke your 16 yr old rusted lines like I did, haha. But, seriously, the brake feel/pressure seems adequate.

Also, no one warned me/told me about this, but you should be VERY careful when unbolting the comp arm. Folks here have said you can unbolt the comp arm from the trailing arm without removing it, but I wasn't able to do this because there was not enough clearance to get the bolt out (it's too close to the car's body). Personally, I can't see how this could be done at all on the CRX, but there are people here who say that you can do this project without removing the comp arm. My experience is that it's a whole other story when you are under the car.

If you're not really careful, or if you're extremely unlucky (I used a whole can of PB blast over a period of several days on this project, a bolt out kit - also a very very nice thing to have - and still somehow managed to either break some of the bolt heads off or was not able to back the bolt out because the bolt had managed to "fuse" itself to the stupid old bushings) and you can't get the comp arm to unbolt from the trailing arm, and you have to take the comp arm off like I did, this is what can happen to you:

This is the nut that holds your comp arm in. This should NEVER come out of your car because there is really no way to just reach in and hold the nut in place, lol. I laugh now but when it fell out I was NOT laughing:




This is where it's supposed to be...I finally did get it back in with a few paper clips, a magnet wand, some chewing gum, and a long *** screwdriver:



You might want to get some new grade 8 bolts and don't forget to hose them down/soak them in PB blast or just use anti seize. Good luck. Try not to get frustrated. Hope it goes well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexracerboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, no one warned me/told me about this, but you should be VERY careful when unbolting the comp arm. Folks here have said you can unbolt the comp arm from the trailing arm without removing it, but I wasn't able to do this because there was not enough clearance to get the bolt out (it's too close to the car's body).
: </TD></TR></TABLE>

you only loosen the compensator bolt on the body, no need to remove it. once loose you can pull the compensator arm down enough for bolt to the TA to come off.

 

seat help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NastyHabitzCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you only loosen the compensator bolt on the body, no need to remove it. once loose you can pull the compensator arm down enough for bolt to the TA to come off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh damn. I guess I did it all retarded like...lol. Except that on the passenger's side, I think I would have had to take the whole thing off anyway as the bolt was not coming apart from that bushing for anything. Oh well...the bushings for both sides were all shredded/cracked/destroyed (before I went crazy on them with a saw ). I have new bushings in there now so I guess I did get something good out of the whole ordeal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PleaseKeepOffDunes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seat help?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They won't fit easily. You'll need to fab up some custom rails if you're going to do it. Try and find some stock Si seats instead.