so i'm almost ready to pull my motor. got the torque shift rod out by removing the bolt and washers. Now im stuck on the shift rod. I don't even know where to start. I can push it in and out to were it clicks three times. But that's it...no more play. Should I remove the assembly from the other side?...where the actual shift lever is?

edit 5/23/07: after doing some searching in other forums...its seems like the best way is to get a punch tool to get it out, but I'd be spending about $30 at sears for a tool I'll only be using a couple times. Is there any other way? Read something about punching it out with an AC compressor bolt and a hammer. Any vouches?

5/24/07: So I went to autozone and they didnt have the pin punch. I went to advanced auto parts and they didnt have it either but they had a drill/screw punch. So I picked it up trying to get this **** out tonight. I get back home and still having some trouble. Pics posted below

just to make sure...this is the "bitch" pin that I should be focusing on right? And second is it suppose to be hallow?



this is what I picked up at advanced auto parts and it seems like due to its design...the punch will only go so far. I don't have access to an air hammer, I tried the AC Bolt trick but that didn't work for me either.


Modified by 91.crx.si at 7:37 PM 5/23/2007

any suggestions?


Modified by 91.crx.si at 6:51 PM 5/24/2007

 

Are you talking about the shift rod that's attached to the tranny? That's being held by a cotter pin. It's a pita to take that off but hammering it with an ice pick will do the trick. I'm not sure if there's a special tool to even take that off.

 

why dont you just remove it from the shifter side? its 2 bolts and you dont have to remove the exhaust. the bitch pin will be much less of a bitch when your not under the car.

 

just peel the rubber boot back and use a punch to remove the pin, then it will slide right off.

 

Yea if its the bitch pin then there are only so many ways to get it out. Its called a bitch pin for a decent reason even though mine never caused many of the 'bitchy' problems. I just used an air hammer and hammered it out and then used pliers to pull it oit. But the ac compressor bolt is an easier/preferred Honda-tech method. Either way you can use anything pencil-head like which will anchor itself in the cavity of the pin and push it out while you hammer it.

 

i think an 8mm punch is what you need. should be very cheap as a single piece

 

so just get go to auto zone/advanced auto parts and ask for an 8mm punch and they'll know what I'm talking about? I'm not too familar with the tool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91.crx.si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so just get go to auto zone/advanced auto parts and ask for an 8mm punch and they'll know what I'm talking about? I'm not too familar with the tool</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya they should. If they don't, find someone else that works there and ask. It's a simple punch that will have an 8mm diameter flat end on it. Pull back your boot at the tranny side of the LINKAGE and then you will clearly see the pin (referred to as bitch pin, self expanding pin). Punch it out. Sometimes it's really easy, sometimes it takes 45-50 minutes. Really depends on your tool and how long that pin has been in there.

A trick to making it easier, cover the pin with anti seize when you put it back in, and put anti seize inside the boot. When you will go to take it off next time, it will still be very greased up and will slide out alot easier.

If the pin ever becomes loose or is giving alot of slack when shifting, simply replace it with a new honda one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


A trick to making it easier, cover the pin with anti seize when you put it back in, and put anti seize inside the boot. When you will go to take it off next time, it will still be very greased up and will slide out alot easier.

If the pin ever becomes loose or is giving alot of slack when shifting, simply replace it with a new honda one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats anti sezie and where would i get it?

 

Anti seize comes in either a paste form or i think they even have it in canned form. Both are avaiable at a local autozone/advance auto parts or even lowes sells it. Its a sliverish paste..

 

bump for new pics at top.

also anyone know where i can get this tool?:

 

That's just a punch. Any hardware store should sell them.

 

hmm theres a true value a couple miles away from my place..i'll go try there

 

this pin sucked in my 88 crx as well so after like 1.5 hours of banging on it with a punch and hammer i just decided to remove the shift linkage at the shifter and remove tranny from the motor and drop the tranny out underneath. I then just pulled the motor right out. I dont know if this will work for you but it was definetely the easiest way for me.

 

i'll use that as my last resort, today i'm gonna go to the hardware store and see if i can find a right punch. removing the tranny would make pulling the motor alot easier though.

 

All you need is a 12 mm bolt to take it out. I used that with a hammer or mallet and it came right out. Less that two minutes, About 10 mins putting it back in with a air compressor bolt to make sure it was all the way in.

 

http://www.performanceforum.co....html
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need something cheaper...take one of your exhuast bolts that have the spring on it and just hit the pin with it. come off after a couple hard hits. Sharpen the end a little so it hits center. better than spending money at a auto store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.performanceforum.co....html
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The first couple swaps I just used a punch but it was a pain in the ***, took me probably 15+ munutes.

Last swap I did a couple weeks ago I used a c-clamp like this link shows and it was eaaaasy.

 

update: I finally got the bitch pin out. The c-clamp method didn't work out to well and I couldnt find a good punch tool locally so I ordered a punch tool made specifically for this application from matco tools. model number MST6455 if anyone needs it for the future. came right out after a few hard hits. Thanks for everyone's input. Now I just need to get a cherry picker.

 

5/16 punch works perfect I just did it last weekend about 6 smacks and it was out.

Sears is your friend in times of need

 

This is GENIUS!

 

my bad experience with this roll pin occurred when using a typical punch and the pin simply expanded and didn't move outward any. it was really stuck. then i simply drilled a small cavity in the head of an 8mm bolt, grabbed my air hammer with a punch bit and used my modded bolt as a driver. came right out. The air hammer seems to put much less stress on the linkage as well. if no air source, the c-clamp method is clean and safe way of doing it.

 

8mm roll pin punch does the trick

 

im confused as to why you dont wanna take off the few little bolts that are on the shifter... way easier than bitch pin... and everything just comes out just like should...