Any k20 ITR's out there?
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From: Yokosuka, Japan
Any k20 ITR's out there?
If you have a k20 in an ITR i'm wondering how the k20 compares with the stock b18c5. Also why you did the swap, how much it cost, biggest pain about it, how long did it take, did you install yourself or pay a shop, would you do it again? Feel free to post pics or links to any write ups on the install.
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From: Homie dont, play that, USA
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a k20 in an ITR i'm wondering how the k20 compares with the stock b18c5. Also why you did the swap, how much it cost, biggest pain about it, how long did it take, did you install yourself or pay a shop, would you do it again? Feel free to post pics or links to any write ups on the install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was well on my way to do it but i figured id jsut stick with the Bseries. The intial cost of putting a K20 in any car is a lot, but after that its not bad. After mounts, Shifter adapter, kpro, wiring, the swap, and all the cost.....the Bseries is awesome as it jsut drops right in. I believe George Knighton tracked his car many times with a ~190whp B18C5 and now has a K20 making ~220whp and i think i read somewhere he wishes he would have kept the B. Not sure on that...but i do think i remember seeing it.
Honestly unless you have just rediculous amounts of money and want to be different, i wouldnt do it. B is good and has plenty of research to back it up. K is GREAT! but the intial cost is a killer
I was well on my way to do it but i figured id jsut stick with the Bseries. The intial cost of putting a K20 in any car is a lot, but after that its not bad. After mounts, Shifter adapter, kpro, wiring, the swap, and all the cost.....the Bseries is awesome as it jsut drops right in. I believe George Knighton tracked his car many times with a ~190whp B18C5 and now has a K20 making ~220whp and i think i read somewhere he wishes he would have kept the B. Not sure on that...but i do think i remember seeing it.
Honestly unless you have just rediculous amounts of money and want to be different, i wouldnt do it. B is good and has plenty of research to back it up. K is GREAT! but the intial cost is a killer
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From: NYC
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (DC2R1216)
Although there are plenty of succesfully K swapped ITR's out there.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.
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From: Yokosuka, Japan
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (H-PIMP)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-PIMP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although there are plenty of succesfully K swapped ITR's out there.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.
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From: Miami, Fl, US
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. If the car has a clean title and the car hasn't been recked ect.. It would be best to keep mostly stock.
My car has a salvage/rebuild title. I would love to drive a K20A teg before spending money and then realizing that I was better off with a B series.
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. If the car has a clean title and the car hasn't been recked ect.. It would be best to keep mostly stock.
My car has a salvage/rebuild title. I would love to drive a K20A teg before spending money and then realizing that I was better off with a B series.
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From: Canton, OH
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (EEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-PIMP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although there are plenty of succesfully K swapped ITR's out there.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont have a type r i was just browsing forums and i think it would def be a better idea to do it in a reg teg or a civic
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i thought about that too. w/ the ITR being a limited production car it's probably best to leave as OEM as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont have a type r i was just browsing forums and i think it would def be a better idea to do it in a reg teg or a civic
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
Why: Because I wanted a wider register, and I love the carrecteristic of a K20. And it have a lot of potentiality.
Cost: a lot. At least about 100$ for me in sweden.
Biggest pain: To mount the LSD i think, and I accidentially broke the gearbox housing
Time: the most weekends for about 4 months.
Yes I installed all by myself.
Yes I would do it again.
Pics: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1606136
Cost: a lot. At least about 100$ for me in sweden.
Biggest pain: To mount the LSD i think, and I accidentially broke the gearbox housing
Time: the most weekends for about 4 months.
Yes I installed all by myself.
Yes I would do it again.
Pics: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1606136
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (DC2R1216)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R1216 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I believe George Knighton tracked his car many times with a ~190whp B18C5 and now has a K20 making ~220whp and i think i read somewhere he wishes he would have kept the B.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.
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From: MA
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (H-PIMP)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-PIMP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm toying with the idea
I'm waiting on the title to come in before I sink any money into her. After that, I picture a JDM front, a mugen gen1 wing, and maybe just maybe I'll go K.
I'm toying with the idea
I'm waiting on the title to come in before I sink any money into her. After that, I picture a JDM front, a mugen gen1 wing, and maybe just maybe I'll go K.
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From: Yokosuka, Japan
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
George, thank you for the informative post. I just picked up an ITR shell that is in great condition, all it needs is a motor. I've been up in the air about getting another B series to put in it or to make the jump to K series. I've been searching around for motors and it seems like a clean 98 spec motor goes for around $4500 - $5000. For about $500-$1000 more you can get a K20a. Thats 20 more HP, a newer motor w/ way more potential, and a 6 speed transmission. About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis? Did you do the install yourself? If so, what was the hardest part of it? Also, would you do it all again knowing what you know now? Thanks!
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
George, thank you for the informative post. I just picked up an ITR shell that is in great condition, all it needs is a motor. I've been up in the air about getting another B series to put in it or to make the jump to K series. I've been searching around for motors and it seems like a clean 98 spec motor goes for around $4500 - $5000. For about $500-$1000 more you can get a K20a. Thats 20 more HP, a newer motor w/ way more potential, and a 6 speed transmission. About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis? Did you do the install yourself? If so, what was the hardest part of it? Also, would you do it all again knowing what you know now? Thanks!
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From: san diego, ca, usa
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put George
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put George
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From: blavica
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (H-PIMP)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-PIMP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although there are plenty of succesfully K swapped ITR's out there.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, if we really want to get technical (playing the advocate here) then no it's not the same. Yes, same motor/power output but the chassis is not going to be the same.
That said, since I have an ITR dedicated to track use, one day I may venture down that route. For now, I'll continue to rock my C5 until she blows and then put another C5 in. When that one goes, I'll think about K20.
Why not hack up one of the readily available EG/DC/EK cars for a K swap rather than an R? The same results can be achieved with any '94-'01 Teg or '92-'00 Civic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, if we really want to get technical (playing the advocate here) then no it's not the same. Yes, same motor/power output but the chassis is not going to be the same.
That said, since I have an ITR dedicated to track use, one day I may venture down that route. For now, I'll continue to rock my C5 until she blows and then put another C5 in. When that one goes, I'll think about K20.
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis? Did you do the install yourself? If so, what was the hardest part of it? Also, would you do it all again knowing what you know now? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it really depends on what brand you buy, whether it was used or new, what motor you buy, etc. i have a k20a2 in my itr and as of now with everything, ive spent close to 9k and i havent even tuned it yet (tuning is next week). i've spent more than i wanted to, but once you start it, you really have to finish it. overrally, its a very easy swap, just very costly. gl
About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis? Did you do the install yourself? If so, what was the hardest part of it? Also, would you do it all again knowing what you know now? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it really depends on what brand you buy, whether it was used or new, what motor you buy, etc. i have a k20a2 in my itr and as of now with everything, ive spent close to 9k and i havent even tuned it yet (tuning is next week). i've spent more than i wanted to, but once you start it, you really have to finish it. overrally, its a very easy swap, just very costly. gl
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From: Yokosuka, Japan
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (pennies_hatchie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pennies_hatchie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it really depends on what brand you buy, whether it was used or new, what motor you buy, etc. i have a k20a2 in my itr and as of now with everything, ive spent close to 9k and i havent even tuned it yet (tuning is next week). i've spent more than i wanted to, but once you start it, you really have to finish it. overrally, its a very easy swap, just very costly. gl
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the input, $9k is a lot. i think i'm going to get another b18c and rock it like it's stock. even w/ the stock b18c5 it's still a blast to drive.
it really depends on what brand you buy, whether it was used or new, what motor you buy, etc. i have a k20a2 in my itr and as of now with everything, ive spent close to 9k and i havent even tuned it yet (tuning is next week). i've spent more than i wanted to, but once you start it, you really have to finish it. overrally, its a very easy swap, just very costly. gl
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the input, $9k is a lot. i think i'm going to get another b18c and rock it like it's stock. even w/ the stock b18c5 it's still a blast to drive.
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From: Armed and Ready
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey George, if you don't mind me asking, what are all the things in your mind that made you feel like your R wasn't very streetable after you did the swap?
My problem is that a car that was a very pleasant daily driver was slowly turned into a car that's fit only for the road courses, and I'm not all that good a driver.
The old days w/an unmodified suspension and B motor with Hondata were probably the most fun because the car was completely street legal and I'd just hop in the car and drive it all day if I wanted.
As to the B motor vs K motor debate specifically, there is no comparison.
The K motor's i-VTEC plus Hondata K Pro is going to give you a very broad torque band. A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor can be tuned to outperform any B motor at the equivalent state of tune, and it will last a lot longer. The K motor was designed to specifically address certain weaknesses of the B motor.
Many, many Honda people will tell you, however, that they do not think all the time, trouble and money is worth it.
It's not that the B motor is better than the K motor. It's that the B has been around so long that they think they know so much more about the B, and they can get decent amounts of power more cheaply, even if the ultimate power obtainable will always be lower with the B than it is with the K.
If you really want the power, and your B motor is about to blow, then go ahead.
If there's nothing really all that wrong with your B motor, then I would probably not go out of the way to get a K motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey George, if you don't mind me asking, what are all the things in your mind that made you feel like your R wasn't very streetable after you did the swap?
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From: Bethlehem, PA
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ******* »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've been searching around for motors and it seems like a clean 98 spec motor goes for around $4500 - $5000. For about $500-$1000 more you can get a K20a. Thats 20 more HP, a newer motor w/ way more potential, and a 6 speed transmission. About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cheapest part of the K swap is the engine... then things get expensive.
Mounts, K-Pro, clutch, 4.7 or 5.0 final, intake, proper axles, shifter/ shifter mount/ shifter cables, header/ exhaust, radiator/ hoses...blah, blah, blah. The list of parts needed goes on and on and it ($$) adds up fast. That k20a site has a great list of parts needed.
Be prepared to drop thousands ($$$$) more after the engine/ swap is bought.
Also, don't forget labor costs and knowing how-to wire things up properly.
GK's post is right on the mark. The K20a is a track beast in the DC2 but it looses some of those fun qualities in the B-series ITR.
Modified by JohnW at 7:31 PM 5/25/2007
I've been searching around for motors and it seems like a clean 98 spec motor goes for around $4500 - $5000. For about $500-$1000 more you can get a K20a. Thats 20 more HP, a newer motor w/ way more potential, and a 6 speed transmission. About how much will it be for everything in addition to the motor to get it up and running in a DC chassis?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cheapest part of the K swap is the engine... then things get expensive.
Mounts, K-Pro, clutch, 4.7 or 5.0 final, intake, proper axles, shifter/ shifter mount/ shifter cables, header/ exhaust, radiator/ hoses...blah, blah, blah. The list of parts needed goes on and on and it ($$) adds up fast. That k20a site has a great list of parts needed.
Be prepared to drop thousands ($$$$) more after the engine/ swap is bought.
Also, don't forget labor costs and knowing how-to wire things up properly.
GK's post is right on the mark. The K20a is a track beast in the DC2 but it looses some of those fun qualities in the B-series ITR.
Modified by JohnW at 7:31 PM 5/25/2007
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From: www.js-garage.com
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (*******)
I purchased a 2005 K20z1 motor for only $3200, and I was able to pull parts off and sell them for over $800 dollars.
But the real cost isn't the actual motor, its the swap parts you need to get it running.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GK's post is right on the mark. The K20a is a track beast in the DC2 but it looses some of those fun qualities in the B-series ITR.
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What exactly is a fun quality?
Lets see with K-series, you can still run power steering, still run a/c. The motors are very stout stock, capable of 500whp (turbocharged) on stock pistons/rods.
the only real downside I see is cost.
Modified by done at 3:35 PM 5/25/2007
But the real cost isn't the actual motor, its the swap parts you need to get it running.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GK's post is right on the mark. The K20a is a track beast in the DC2 but it looses some of those fun qualities in the B-series ITR.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What exactly is a fun quality?
Lets see with K-series, you can still run power steering, still run a/c. The motors are very stout stock, capable of 500whp (turbocharged) on stock pistons/rods.
the only real downside I see is cost.
Modified by done at 3:35 PM 5/25/2007
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (done)
That and they've got it done to a science now. Its pretty straight forward as how to do it, but again, the only downside is the cost (wait a few more years) or be like me and drop 9k
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From: Bethlehem, PA
Re: Any k20 ITR's out there? (done)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by done »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What exactly is a fun quality?
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I guess I should have said, "fun race/ track qualities".
Road racing my K20a ITR is more like driving a Mustang than a Acura. The K power hits and hits hard, but the car isn't as nibble and doesn't change direction as well as when the c5 was under the hood. Braking distances, shift points and such are all completely different.
I guess it's kinda fun passing AIX Mustangs and Z06 Corvettes on the long straight at VIR.
I'll yeild the street car stuff to you guys, but road racing a K vs. the B, they're two completely different animals.
BTW- Vote for me here for the GRM UTCC:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2566650
Thanks
JW
What exactly is a fun quality?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess I should have said, "fun race/ track qualities".
Road racing my K20a ITR is more like driving a Mustang than a Acura. The K power hits and hits hard, but the car isn't as nibble and doesn't change direction as well as when the c5 was under the hood. Braking distances, shift points and such are all completely different.
I guess it's kinda fun passing AIX Mustangs and Z06 Corvettes on the long straight at VIR.
I'll yeild the street car stuff to you guys, but road racing a K vs. the B, they're two completely different animals.
BTW- Vote for me here for the GRM UTCC:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2566650Thanks
JW