i have a 1996 honda civic Lx and in the future i plan on buying a new performance intake manifold and a throttle body as well. I want to know if anyone knows what size the stock throttle body is (MM), and also what is a good size to buy? i know i dont need too much air but a little more is better for sure. So i wanna know if anyone out here knows what size the stock throttle body is and what size is good to buy...to get a little hp gain in the right direction..........

 

You're heading in the wrong direction...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're heading in the wrong direction...</TD></TR></TABLE>



So true.

Money better spent saving for a better mod or cool suspension stuff.

I'd rather see you buy soshinoya driver badges than bolt ons for a d.

 

what do you guys mean that im going in the wrong direction for?

 

because you have the D16Y7 which is equvilant to having a hamster powered car

seriously spend money on suspension or save it for a swap.

i too have a crap Y7 and hate it. but i do have a lot of suspension and i think youll appreciate more handling than 5 hp from bolt ons at best.

that motor wont feel any different unless its boosted. trust me

nice shocks/springs or coilovers, some bracing, good rims/tires, nice rear sway bar (you already have a 24 mm up front i believe since its a LX) and call it day....then when you can save a good amount (3k or so) do a swap....it can be done for less if you do the work yourself.

 

It's a common belief that the only way to efficiently get power out of your D-series is boost. Bolt on's are a waste, and a full internals build and tune will cost you more than a good swap and yield less results.

 

There are so many other mods that actually make a noteable difference in performance for your money, that considering a larger throttle body and intake on an otherwise stock D16Y7 just doesn't make much sense.

Get an Ex transmission, if you haven't already. That's a helluva first mod right there. Then move on to suspension stuff. But the general I/H/E route that everyone and their mom takes for modding a Y7 is just retarded. Sure they increase hp. Fantastic...now you're just faster than a stock version of your car. Worth it? Not in the slightest...unless you're surrounded by stock Y7's. Make better use of the hp you have now (tranny and suspension) unless you're ready to spend some coin on actually going fast.

 

thats bull,i felt a lil more power from my civic ex w/ bolt ons

its tru for the money its not worth it but saying u WONT feel any difference is not true.

my buddy had a 89 civic dx auto.....the worst engine from honda i swear.....anyways he got i/h/e and there was a big notice of diff for that POS.

u will feel a lil bit of a gain not much,but to say u wont feel any diff is just stupid.

first of all dont get a brand name intake for 150 bucks or more....get some cheap *** one off e bay for 25 bucks junk the filter and buy a k & n filter.....just as good and way cheaper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngbucker19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats bull,i felt a lil more power from my civic ex w/ bolt ons

its tru for the money its not worth it but saying u WONT feel any difference is not true.

my buddy had a 89 civic dx auto.....the worst engine from honda i swear.....anyways he got i/h/e and there was a big notice of diff for that POS.

u will feel a lil bit of a gain not much,but to say u wont feel any diff is just stupid.

first of all dont get a brand name intake for 150 bucks or more....get some cheap *** one off e bay for 25 bucks junk the filter and buy a k & n filter.....just as good and way cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That could likley be a placebo effect too. Just like people think they feel more power form an intake... though there usually isn't any and in fact it could be adversly affecting performance.

And brand name intakes don't shake around and scratch up your engine bay, that's why they're worth the extra money over a piece of PVC piping bought off of eBay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngbucker19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats bull,i felt a lil more power from my civic ex w/ bolt ons

its tru for the money its not worth it but saying u WONT feel any difference is not true.

my buddy had a 89 civic dx auto.....the worst engine from honda i swear.....anyways he got i/h/e and there was a big notice of diff for that POS.

u will feel a lil bit of a gain not much,but to say u wont feel any diff is just stupid.

first of all dont get a brand name intake for 150 bucks or more....get some cheap *** one off e bay for 25 bucks junk the filter and buy a k & n filter.....just as good and way cheaper.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude you also said you had an EX.....this guys wanting to mod a LX, two DIFFERENT MOTORS!!!

EX=SOHC VTEC
LX=SOHC single over head crap


besides for the price of a new intake manifold and a TB he could grab a nice rear sway set up and maybe some chassis braces....

 

thanks for the info guys, yeah i know that no matter what mod i do to my y7 it might get up there to equivilent a sohc vtec or so, but yeah i know that its not gonna be worth it for where i want my car to get to. I just started a new job and am working my *** off allot this summer and i wanna get something big and good for my car, something good to have to show for. I had a good deal with a buddy set up for a b18a with a transmission, new axles, enigine mounts, wiring harness, and ecu for only $500.00, but i couldnt come up with the money in time before he sold it. Anyways i really do wanna do a swap, i hear all kinds of things about all kinds of motors. I know the b18's and the b20 have good torque and all and that the b16 doesnt have as much, which i definately want a good amount of torque. But i dono which motor would be a good swap, ofcourse a b18c5 type R would be dandy but whats the chances of me getting a hold of one of those. So which motor is the best for a swap, where is a good place to look, and how much would it be (ball park figure)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngbucker19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats bull,i felt a lil more power from my civic ex w/ bolt ons

its tru for the money its not worth it but saying u WONT feel any difference is not true.

my buddy had a 89 civic dx auto.....the worst engine from honda i swear.....anyways he got i/h/e and there was a big notice of diff for that POS.

u will feel a lil bit of a gain not much,but to say u wont feel any diff is just stupid.

first of all dont get a brand name intake for 150 bucks or more....get some cheap *** one off e bay for 25 bucks junk the filter and buy a k & n filter.....just as good and way cheaper.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

better throttle response does not equate to more power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngbucker19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its tru for the money its not worth it but saying u WONT feel any difference is not true.

my buddy had a 89 civic dx auto.....the worst engine from honda i swear.....anyways he got i/h/e and there was a big notice of diff for that POS.

u will feel a lil bit of a gain not much,but to say u wont feel any diff is just stupid.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what I said when i got my first mad tight jdm wakaba ichisima oem intake. You are so cool

 

hmotors.com - and if that's not it, just Google for hmotors. Ballpark figure - you'll see how much most of the materials are going to be when you visit the site. But if $500 is "hard to come up with in time", then the best motor for you is the one you can afford when you don't feel like saving anymore.

If it's your daily driver, just stay stock and maintain it. And upgrade the suspension...and tranny if you're up for it.

 

why does everyone say to keep a daily driver stock? is it because when you want a fast *** car you need to strip it out and make it light as hell and then its not street legal.

 

It's not even that. #1 mainly is emissions. OBDII isn't exactly the most friendly to troubleshoot sometimes. So when you go and start swaping motors and ECUs and such, it's just that much harder to ever get back to a point where you'll pass OBDII emissions again when it comes due (in MD it's every 2 years). I guess a second reason is that, while a swap has the potential to come out like a stock factory vehicle, rarely is that the case...and it's just not worth the headaches that it sometimes presents especially when it's your daily driver.

At this moment, in all its unmodified and well maintained glory, sits your Civic that idles well, gets good gas mileage, doesn't cost as much in parts as B-series stuff to maintain, starts reliably....you get the point. And then you got the cops to deal with. It's just not 'worth' it when what you really need is something to get you reliably from A to B on a daily basis.

 

ok i get it now......see i never knew that after swaps and all that emissions were hard to pass and all that stuff.......so then in that case would it be better to get an integra ls or gsr or something that already has the good b-series motor in it and passes emissions? or what? what would u do? kuz i wanna be fast ofcourse but i dont wanna have to throw munny into 2 cars////

 

Just have one car. Make it fast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16spooler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would u do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd leave it the **** alone until I had a second vehicle to start messing with.

 

Just boost it, easiest way to make power. I daily drove a d16z6 boosted for two years, 9psi and made 210 hp. It was deff. fun but after a while any power gets boring so now its built and waiting for the bigger turbo

 

You dont' have to have a second car.

Just modify your car responsibly and after much thought. That will help to keep you from doing things that expletive up and leave you without a car.

 

^^ Exactly. Unless your daily has like 500 Whp it will be fine for a daily.

Though I know a few people dailying 400whp civics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont' have to have a second car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just a note: When I said "Leave it alone", that was in response to the engine and modding or swapping it. I had already posted my recommendations about a tranny swap and suspension a couple posts from the top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a note: When I said "Leave it alone", that was in response to the engine and modding or swapping it. I had already posted my recommendations about a tranny swap and suspension a couple posts from the top.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My post wasn't saying to "modify it (except no motor swaps)". You can have one car, a daily driver, and do a motor swap without putting yourself out for days or weeks. You just have to plan things right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You just have to plan things right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. And if the original question is any indication of what's to come from his "planning things right", then I'll re-iterate: Don't do a swap and leave the engine mechanically alone.