Alright, I just put a jdm d15b into my crx... connected all the wires, used the rywire conversion harness, p28 ecu (I also have the p06 ecu as well), everything seems to be connected properly, new plugs and wires, timing is set, but when I try to start the car, the engine sounds like it wants to turn over, but doesn't. I'm getting spark, fuel is flowing, it just doesn't want to start. Before the ZC was taken out, it didn't have any problems starting, so I would have to assume its something that was done during the swap.

Also, when trying to start the car with the new engine, there was a flame coming out of the exhaust, but that doesn't appear to be happening now. It sounds like its about to turn over, but it just won't quite get there...

Any thoughts on what the problem may be?

 

you have spark?? you have correct timing??

 

Yeah, I have spark and correct timing. We did the timing and adjusted it a few times just to be sure.

There is spark, just can't figure out what is holding it up from turning over. Just for reference, does anyone know the correct plug order for the distributor? I went by the haynes manual for 81 to 92 civic/crx, so I may actually have the wrong firing order....

 

1-3-4-2 same for ALL 4 banging hondas from as far back as 1984 to current ones. #1 would be closest to the crank side and the distributor turns clockwise. The cap usually has markings to indicate the #1 cylinder which would be the lower front terminal.

Janos

 

Hmmm, then that is most likely the problem if thats the firing order. I believe my friend said it was straight 1-2-3-4. I'm assuming if its not in the correct order, the car won't start, right? (sorry, I'm really retarded at times with engines)

 

no-- it won't

 

Alright, I will go ahead and give that a shot when I get a chance.. the car is at my friends house who lives an hour away (been doing the swap on Saturdays), so I will try to get down there sometime sooner to give it a shot.. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks for the help

 

Alright, the firing order is correct... so that wasn't the problem. I'm wondering if its because the vtec might not be set up correctly?

The rywire harness for the vtec has 3 plugs for the vtec - one going to the solenoid, one going elsewhere (can't remember off the top of my head), and one that hasn't been plugged in yet... I believe that its for the 4 wire o2 sensor. If thats what needs to go in the plug, is that required to be set up before the engine will start?

Thanks

 

flame coming out of the exhaust sounds like a timing issue. was it mpfi before the swap. is the gas old. have you tried starting fluid. even if the o2 wasnt hooked up i think it would start just run like ****

 

there should be a plug for vtec solenoid, a plug for solenoid oil pressure and a four wire plug for the o2.....do you have a cel??

 

Everything is hooked up for the vtec except the o2 sensor at the moment..

The CEL comes on after trying to start the car. Not sure of what code is being spit out... can someone tell me how to get the code from the ECU?

 

you have the rywire conversion harness??
well there should be two wires coming out of its subharness mine are orange and blue hook those together and you code will blink you cel

 

Yep, I got the same color wires... I was wondering what that was for....

I will do that next time I'm near my car haha, its about an hour away at my friends house. Thanks! I will report my findings.

 

what i did was route them to a switch and then i can check my codes at the flip of a switch, to check the codes turn the ignition on and connect the wires count the blinks a long one is ten and short ones are ones, then check here http://members.troublecodes.ne...s.txt

 

Thanks for the link...

Now, the CEL comes on only after I crank the engine and it doesn't start... will it keep the code in the ECU if I turn the ignition all the way off, or just connect the wires once the CEL comes on?

 

check ur cam timing at TDC and make sure it's in the right place as well. While doing that, remove the cap from the distributor and make sure it's pointing at the #1 terminal.

Janos

 

well key the car on the cel should be lit and stay lit then connect the wires and it will flash, that will be your code

 

Check for: Timing, Spark, Fuel, and Compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check for: Timing, Spark, Fuel, and Compression.</TD></TR></TABLE> thats the essentials for a running motor

 

I did just think of something as well... I'm using the distributor that came on the d15b, I just switched the plug from the wiring harness of the d15b with the one from the old engine to match the dizzy... could this be the problem? If so, do I need to rewire the distributor, or do I need to find one that will match the 89 si distributor except vtec/obd1?

*Edit*

Actually, I think I used the rywire distributor conversion harness... so I think that kinda eliminates my question....


Modified by dra600n at 7:05 PM 5/23/2007

 

Alright, I got the engine started, it was the firing order on the distributor, the other problem I was having, 2 sensors were plugged in backwards - meaning one was plugged into the wrong one, as they both had the same connection, and I believe they were the IAC and EGR.

The ECU is throwing an error code of 4 (or 5) or 40 (maybe 41), not entirely sure how to read it yet. The CEL blinks 4 times, evenly, about 1 second long each, with equal pauses in between flashes, and one really fast one at the end, like, 1/4 second. Not sure if the last one is just an indication saying that its at the end of the error code or not, but I noticed there was also no error code 40 on the link posted above.

Now, if that is an error code of 4 (Crank Position Sensor), would that be due to the timing being off? The timing is currently way off due to it being timed on the wrong plug..

Thanks again for everyones help, you've all been effing great so far!

 

morning bump

 

it is a 41 four long one second blinks are four 10s and the short one after is a one then there should be a long pause and the four longs and a short etc etc unpulg the hazard fuse on the top of the pass side shock tower and wait ten seconds before pluging it back in... if your code still is there then u have a problem with your o2 heater circuit which you should test for continuity through out the wire to see if you have a short on the wire i might be mistaken but i think the pinout should be D14

 

Figured out the o2 sensor problem. I was using the P28 ECU, and the o2 sensor is a 1 wire, not 4. Switched to the P08 and the code went away. She should be done this weekend!

Thanks for all the help everyone, you all effing rock \m/