Went to start my car the other day, and got no response; went and got a new starter (it was about time anyway, it'd has been giving my trouble for a while now), put it in, turn the key and still nothing.

-Starter has full power, battery is good and putting out full power, with new clean terminals.
-Did the continuity testing on the ignition switch, it's good.
-Fuses are good.
-I can get the starter to turn over by running a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the tab on the starter, so the starter is good.
-The car will push start just fine (had to do it to get her home).
-When I check volts at the spade connector with the ignition turned to start, no power at all.

So my problem is from the ignition switch to that spade connector, but when I examined all of that, everything looked to be in fine working order.

So if my starter is good (new) and my ignition switch is ok (I think) and the wiring from ignition to starter looks ok, what else is there to check?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
-Matt


Modified by chunk3rs at 5:39 PM 5/20/2007

 

Bump for starting my car with a piece wire.

Guess I'm just looking for a breakdown of what's inbetween the ignition switch and the spade connector, becuase I must have missed something when I looked through it all.

Thanks

 

have you poked around in your underhood fusebox? maybe something there is loose.....?

but i don't think there are any other components to the system....it sounds like ignition switch to me but if it tests OK then.....

 

did you test all of the ignition switch circuits according to the helms manual? because i had a similar problem recently with my ignition switch, and most of the circuits tested good, but there was one that was consistently bad. replaced the ignition switch and everything is fine again.

 

Yeah, I did the tests according to the helms and got (very near) perfect continuity through every circuit.

I'll definitely do it again, to confirm though.

Thanks for the responses.

 

Is this a manual transmission? What your describing sounds like the starter relay is either not getting power, or something. It's on the drivers side, just above the hood release. That's where the power to the spade on the starter is coming from.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gp70hs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this a manual transmission? What your describing sounds like the starter relay is either not getting power, or something. It's on the drivers side, just above the hood release. That's where the power to the spade on the starter is coming from.</TD></TR></TABLE>

kinda hard to push start a automatic don't u think...

 

I was under the impression starter relays were (mostly) on ATVs and small bikes, but I'll look into that.

If it comes down to replacing my ignition switch, would I want to replace the entire thing or just the electrical portion? I don't really want to have two keys if it's not absolutely necessary.

Still havn't gotten around to a second round of continuity testing on my original switch, lazy me.

Yes it's a manual.

Thanks guys.

 

just the electrical portion

i'd hit up a junkyard asap and get one or two to try out... it's always nice to have extras of those anyway....like a distributor or main relay

 

Alright, well I redid the continuity testing on my ignition switch, and everything was good. Everything electrical was (and is) in perfect working order.

The problem: the clutch/starter activition switch wasn't being activated by the clutch, the plug (who the expletive engineered a pedal with a hole where it should hit a switch, and a plug to fill the hole) was still in place, but had broken just right so that it looked alright from my view, but wasn't in place enough to push the switch. Took the plug out, made a new one, fixed.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I guess with a little bit more investigation (doing more than just looking) I would have found that problem easily.

Lesson learned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chunk3rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem: the clutch/starter activition switch wasn't being activated by the clutch, the plug (who the expletive engineered a pedal with a hole where it should hit a switch, and a plug to fill the hole) was still in place, but had broken just right so that it looked alright from my view, but wasn't in place enough to push the switch. Took the plug out, made a new one, fixed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone have a picture of this plug??

 

Hrm, I am having this same problem with my crx. I will check and see if it is the plug when I get home!