stich weld or full seam weld chasis?
which is looked upon as "better", if they have the same outcome i might as well save the gas, rods and time if i just stich weld right?
not to mention im on a hobby box, what do people call em "buzz boxes?"
not to mention im on a hobby box, what do people call em "buzz boxes?"
Stitch is preferred for the mostpart. Less weight and the strength factor is quite high. I have seen full seam in certain high stress areas on drift cars and what not, which see alot of strain on the strut towers, etc.
Definitely do not attempt stick on your car...that's entirely inappropriate. I doubt you'll be able to not blow through the material entirely anyway. You need to get a MIG.
Definitely do not attempt stick on your car...that's entirely inappropriate. I doubt you'll be able to not blow through the material entirely anyway. You need to get a MIG.
You can stick weld thin gauge material just fine, you just need some skill and some 1/16 electrode. I'd much perfer to stick weld than to mig weld, you have a lot better puddle control with stick than mig.
Hey, more power to you...I wouldn't do it. Then again I don't really stick very often at all. I TIG and occasionally MIG, so my stick skills probably couldn't pull that off.
Whatever then bro...stick away
Whatever then bro...stick away
Yeah it definately takes more skill than mig, personally if I am gonna seam weld anything I'll be doing it tig. But if you get some practise with the right setup you'll find you can make some really great welds with stick.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can stick weld thin gauge material just fine, you just need some skill and some 1/16 electrode. I'd much perfer to stick weld than to mig weld, you have a lot better puddle control with stick than mig.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are absolutely crazy! No way you can control stick better unless you are retarded adn can't mig weld!
You are absolutely crazy! No way you can control stick better unless you are retarded adn can't mig weld!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can stick weld thin gauge material just fine, you just need some skill and some 1/16 electrode. I'd much perfer to stick weld than to mig weld, you have a lot better puddle control with stick than mig.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You might be able to but its not the best method, specially for someone who really does not know how to weld.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it definately takes more skill than mig, personally if I am gonna seam weld anything I'll be doing it tig. But if you get some practise with the right setup you'll find you can make some really great welds with stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you tig weld over mig, for seam welding ? Just curious, usually the floor is pretty dirty no matter how well you clean it, and tig will get contaiinated and take a long time.
You might be able to but its not the best method, specially for someone who really does not know how to weld.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it definately takes more skill than mig, personally if I am gonna seam weld anything I'll be doing it tig. But if you get some practise with the right setup you'll find you can make some really great welds with stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you tig weld over mig, for seam welding ? Just curious, usually the floor is pretty dirty no matter how well you clean it, and tig will get contaiinated and take a long time.
Sure you couls stick weld it, but why would you?
The processes have the means to arrive at the same quality, with MIG being faster.
Stick welding is not that hard, it just takes practice like MIG or TIG.
Use mig, and just stitch weld. Some guys do tacks, but it isn't as effective, and there is alot more chance the fusion isn't there.
Do 1/2"-1 1/2" welds about 2"-4" apart. It helps alot.
Even a cheapo 110 volt mig will do this fine.
The processes have the means to arrive at the same quality, with MIG being faster.
Stick welding is not that hard, it just takes practice like MIG or TIG.
Use mig, and just stitch weld. Some guys do tacks, but it isn't as effective, and there is alot more chance the fusion isn't there.
Do 1/2"-1 1/2" welds about 2"-4" apart. It helps alot.
Even a cheapo 110 volt mig will do this fine.
why would you? you spend less time prepping and grinding paint from tiny crevaces that will burn through and cause porosity. run a 1/16 er6010 and burn it in nice and fast and it will look better, be stronger, and require less time than tig or mig.
even if you media blast the whole frame there are still going to be places you miss. so unless you plan on acid dipping the entire thing why wouldn't you use stick?
edit: i can understand the guys who make the point of not having the experience or skill with stick, but even that's not much of an excuse since you can always practice and burn a few rods on some thin gauge material before you tackle your final project.
even if you media blast the whole frame there are still going to be places you miss. so unless you plan on acid dipping the entire thing why wouldn't you use stick?
edit: i can understand the guys who make the point of not having the experience or skill with stick, but even that's not much of an excuse since you can always practice and burn a few rods on some thin gauge material before you tackle your final project.
agreed - there's no way to get a totally clean joint and stick will just cut right through and get really good penetration - just practice first so you don't get too much. If you're not comfy with stick, use flux-core + gas
edit: with stick you can easily control the feed and arc length on the fly whenever you encounter an imperfect joint as well - wire feed just isn't that versatile. Either way, operator control >>> welding process, so do whatever you're best at
edit: with stick you can easily control the feed and arc length on the fly whenever you encounter an imperfect joint as well - wire feed just isn't that versatile. Either way, operator control >>> welding process, so do whatever you're best at
I disagree. You can control a mig weld much better than stick. The only reason you might be able to have more control with stick is you can increase your arc length and leave less weld deposit and move around an area and still keep the heat in it.
Mig is most definately more versitile unless you are skilled with stick than they can both be equally versitile. Except you have to have different stick electrodes to weld in different positions as opposed to mig which can be used in any position without changing anything except some settings.
SMAW is a very old welding process and is outdated but will most likely be around a very long time. There are many processes that can out perform this process in many different ways. They just take a little more money, skill, and knowledge. Sorry old timers but SMAW is not the best process.
Mig is most definately more versitile unless you are skilled with stick than they can both be equally versitile. Except you have to have different stick electrodes to weld in different positions as opposed to mig which can be used in any position without changing anything except some settings.
SMAW is a very old welding process and is outdated but will most likely be around a very long time. There are many processes that can out perform this process in many different ways. They just take a little more money, skill, and knowledge. Sorry old timers but SMAW is not the best process.
Crazy stuff!!!
6010 would not be any stronger, and would not look any better.
SMAW is absolutely the last resort. Mig, then Tig, then stick.
I've done all 3 on sheetmetal. I did stick once and swore never to do it again. Tig was slow, but with excellent results as usual. Mig was nice, and it looked even better than TIG.
To the thread starter:
Yes, it can be done. No I don't recommend it. Practice and you could make it work, and it might even look mediocre. If it's all you have to work with and you can't borrow a little MIG, then have at 'er.
6010 would not be any stronger, and would not look any better.
SMAW is absolutely the last resort. Mig, then Tig, then stick.
I've done all 3 on sheetmetal. I did stick once and swore never to do it again. Tig was slow, but with excellent results as usual. Mig was nice, and it looked even better than TIG.
To the thread starter:
Yes, it can be done. No I don't recommend it. Practice and you could make it work, and it might even look mediocre. If it's all you have to work with and you can't borrow a little MIG, then have at 'er.
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