I just had my 1996Accord safetied (see post on DRL Relay) and was expecting to have the brakes done because the steering wheel shakes when I brake. The mechanic said the brakes were fine and he did not notice any significant shake. I t has been a week now since the safety and I noticed that the shake is somewhat intermittant (however it does it more than not). It seems to do it more with light braking than heavey and speed does not really make a difference. Does anyone have any ideas. I heard that it may be a worn bushing it the steering assembly.

Any help would be great.

 

Hmmmm it may be a few of these things....
-Warped rotor
-Not properly tighten wheel
-New rotor??? I had mine changed and it was new, but a week later it was fine.

So tell me if the rotor was new. I think it can be the uneven surface of the rotor. I THINK! Someone will comment again.

 

Does your break pedle pulse while the steering wheel is shaking? If it does than it is probably a rotor. If they are older rotors you can have them turned. That is as long as they are not to badly worn and are within specs.

 

The brake pedal does not pulse and the mechanic said the rotors were fine. I had actually pre-purchased rotors to change them myself but since I had to bring it in for the safety any way I figured the shop could do it.

Changing the rotors on a 1996 Accord is a bit difficult especially if you cant get the axle nut off (which I could not). However the mechanic said they were fine so I returned them.

 

I think its the rotos from what you are saying. Might want to take it to another mechanic and get a second opinion.

 

Sounds like rotors to me too from how you describe it. But I don't know for sure.

 

I'm starting tohave the same problem. But the kind of shaking I have is rediculous. It shakes so much when I start braking. I don't understand why it would be my brakes or anything like that when I just spent close to $2000 for all new brakes.

 

I know the obvious thing would be to say it is the rotors but that is not the problem. I have had problems with bad rotors on my F150 before and I am sure it is not the rotors. The pedal does not pulse, the problem is intermittant and I already had the brakes checked. Any other thoughts?

 

I have heard spindles

 

It still could be the rotors need to be resurfaced. Often 'warped' rotors aren't physically warped. Brake pad material imprints unevenly on the surface of the rotor, so the friction properties get uneven around the rotor. The pedal doesn't pulse, but the braking force is uneven.

Another possibility is loose ball joints, including those on the steering rack & tie rods. Loose bushings, too. Your mechanic could check those out, if he hasn't already done that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5G_Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm starting tohave the same problem. But the kind of shaking I have is rediculous. It shakes so much when I start braking. I don't understand why it would be my brakes or anything like that when I just spent close to $2000 for all new brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF?!?!?!?!?! how did you spend $2 grand on brakes?!?! unless you got a big brake kit or something, you got ripped off.

 

balance your tires

 

blance your tires and maybe an alignment ???

 

Yeah, it could be one of those few things. Warped rotor, unbalanced tires ect. My accord does it currently, but only under mid to hard breaking at high speeds. And I know it's either the rotor, or the tires need to be balanced. If anything, probably a mixture of the two. I hope you get it all figured out bud.

 

If balanced tires and flat rotors wont cure it, get a new tire for that wheel because you likely have a separated belt. I have one that was in my Driver front that was causing my wheel to shake when braking. Had a thup thup thup at low speeds too. I rotated it to the passenger rear and no more wheel shake. I need new tires

 

Are your tires unevenly worn? Mine were in the front (due to camber, inner part had metal showing through), and when I changed them, all shaking went away.

 

i had the same problem on my 3rd gen. what fixed it for me was new brakes, new master cylinder, new tires, and and alignment.

 

Did you get this figured out yet?

Have you had your suspension completely checked out? could be a ball joint, control arm, inner tie rod, tie rod end or worn bushings. With one of those you will usually get a clunking or knocking noise when you hit a bump. Could be a bad wheel baring too but there is usually a noise that accompanies that as well.

 

I think its ur rotors, I had the same pulsating feeling from time to time in my 7th gen and the rotors had to be resurfaced

 

I replaced the ball joints replaced because they were worn (clunking when hitting bumps). The clunking is gone but not the shaking. I have noticed that there is a minor "clunk" in the steering when I am pulling in and out of parking spots. Could this be related?

 

That would usually indicate that there may be something else in your suspension that may need to be replaced. where you talk about turning I would suspect Inner tie rod, tie rod end, sway bar links or maybe a bushing. I would check those out. Hard to diagnose over the internet with a clunk as a hint...everything in your suspension will clunk when it's worn out and could also cause a shimmy in your steering wheel.

Or do you hear or feel a constant clicking/humming/grinding when you go around a corner? If you do it could be a worn out CV joint.

 

Nope ! No constant clicking/humming/grinding when going around a corners. Just a minor "clunk" when there is excessive movement in the steering wheel like parking or 3 point turns etc. I am going put it on ramps to check it out this weekend.

I posted another question regarding a coolant leak only when the car is turned off and the cooling fan comes on. Does't appear to be leaking any other time. If anyone has any ideas I wouls appreciate your thoughts

 

Where is the coolant leaking from? Can you tell if it's coming out of the weep hole in the water pump. It will weep coolant when the seals or bearings start to wear out. When the water pump weeps that means it has to be replaced. When was the last time you had your timing belt and water pump replaced, this could be your cars way of telling you it's time for a changing.....

 

yeah you dont wanna go and let your timing belt brake. thats a pain. could possibly bend valves. had that happen to my uncles s2000, sucked. mine wore down and ate the teeth off but didnt brake so was only $260 for a new assembly. but my friend it sounds like you drive a beater. why dont you take it to a good mechanic at a shop for an all around inspection? after u get everything fixed keep it serviced every 3k miles if u dont diy and u should have no worries.

 

Cant't tell where it is coming from but I haven't had a chance to really look since everytime it happens I seem to be in a rush to get somewhere (3 kids in organised sports). Like I said it leaks (steady trickle) only when the car is parked and ignition is turned off and the fan kicks in. If the fan does not kick in after the car is parked, it doesn't leak at all.

As far as Kaiju1787's remark....Yeah it is a beater (486,000klms) tha I paid $25 for and $400 to safety in order to get it on the road. It is not my primary vehicle because I have a 2001 f150 Supercrew for the family. I only use it to go back and forth to work. I had a 1997 Venture but it was a piece of junk! Rusted out by 2002, had the bodywork done and had to redo it (replace entire rocker panels) in 2004 but it wouldn't stop not to mention all the electrical and mechanical problems etc. I just want to keep this going until I can afford to get my wife a better vehicle so I can get my truck back. Paying a mechanic a ton of money is not really an option.