HIGH PERFOMANCE HALF SHAFT
Yeah so my 95 accord ex is now pushing some power. What will the oem half shafts hold up to ? I can not find any HP axels for my car , except some fidenza's that arent rated high enough, who knows where I can get some to hold 400-500 hp. Should I take it easy on the oem ones until I get the upgrade. Also I have heard through the grape vine that the oem half shafts will hold 350hp on the street, not the track , due to pavement not getting any traction. I am running Avon Tech RA comp tires, Should that be a concern with oem shafts ? THANKS FOR THE ADVICE
I dont know if I would venture into making a guess at rating our oem axles, they will hold quite a bit but it is all relative to their condition and how you beat on them.
Apparently alot of people are having good luck with oem axles on the street and on the track as long as you preload when you launch. Obviously though on the track with a tall slick, heavy car like the accords, and a good bit of power... you leave hard enough your probably going to eventually tear up a half shaft.
There are halfshaft upgrades available but they are not cheap (800.00$), but these guys are highly regarded as one of the best companies to deal with (there are many threads in the f/i forum and drag racing forum about them).
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/Accord90-01.ivnu
Apparently alot of people are having good luck with oem axles on the street and on the track as long as you preload when you launch. Obviously though on the track with a tall slick, heavy car like the accords, and a good bit of power... you leave hard enough your probably going to eventually tear up a half shaft.
There are halfshaft upgrades available but they are not cheap (800.00$), but these guys are highly regarded as one of the best companies to deal with (there are many threads in the f/i forum and drag racing forum about them).
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/Accord90-01.ivnu
I finaaly found these . Do you think they will be the best bang for the buck. not to bad of a price for both , and thats 400hp .
http://www.ultrarev.com/produc...45512
http://www.ultrarev.com/produc...45512
Yeah thats much better price... and driveshaft shop product... good find...
I thought driveshaft shop had set pricing for all their distributors... I dont know what I was thinking, obviously not. Maybe check around on the board here with the sponsors, they may give you a little better deal even than that...
I thought driveshaft shop had set pricing for all their distributors... I dont know what I was thinking, obviously not. Maybe check around on the board here with the sponsors, they may give you a little better deal even than that...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Apparently alot of people are having good luck with oem axles on the street and on the track as long as you preload when you launch. [/url]</TD></TR></TABLE>
can someone explain preloading when you launch, I understand preload on suspension, like if you have traction bars and you adjust them so there is wieght/pressure on them before you put weight on the suspension---correct?
Oh and sorry for the thread jack, didn't want to make a new thread.
Nevermind I SEARCHED others take note
Modified by skimNrace at 12:14 PM 5/18/2007
Apparently alot of people are having good luck with oem axles on the street and on the track as long as you preload when you launch. [/url]</TD></TR></TABLE>
can someone explain preloading when you launch, I understand preload on suspension, like if you have traction bars and you adjust them so there is wieght/pressure on them before you put weight on the suspension---correct?
Oh and sorry for the thread jack, didn't want to make a new thread.
Nevermind I SEARCHED others take note
Modified by skimNrace at 12:14 PM 5/18/2007
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Well preload is when you apply an initial load to the drivetrain before you actually launch to avoid the major shock load that normally hits the drivetrain, axles, motor mounts, etc. when you release a clutch very quickly when racing. This also removes any lash or slack in the drivetrain that kind of give parts a little "run" at each other before impacting.
Its like the difference between you walking up to a cardboard box, putting your foot on it, applying a little force and then giving it a full force push. As opposed to taking a run at it and giving it a swift full force kick. One way is going essentually leave you with a destroyed box.
Another example is think about trying to push a brick with a sledge hammer. On way you put the hammer up agianst the brick and just give it a full force push, the other you take a swing at it... the second way you now have pebbles instead of a brick.
Same thing kinda with preload on the car, you are not letting all that power just impact the driveline with an instant huge shock/ impact force. Instead your loading the driveline beforehand to lessen the sudden launch force acting on it and remove the lash in the drivetrain that compounds it.
OK not the best example for visualizing but you probably get the idea.
Basically to do it at the drag strip, most people do as follows. Do their burnout, pull up to the line until they break the first staging mean which lights the first set of bulbs and almost the second. Then they apply either the ebrake or a line lock on the rear wheels. Next you would let out the clutch just enough for it to start engaging and pulling you forward that little bit more reuired to trip the second staging beam (which lights the second set of bulbs on the tree). Tree starts... next set of lights flash and bottom bulbs go green just as you release the brake and slip the clutch the rest of the way to full engagement and your off.
Hopefully a decent explination... sorry not the best. My understanding of it.
Edit: I see you found it before I saw this and typed my 2 cents... oh well... it killed some time at work I guess.
Its like the difference between you walking up to a cardboard box, putting your foot on it, applying a little force and then giving it a full force push. As opposed to taking a run at it and giving it a swift full force kick. One way is going essentually leave you with a destroyed box.
Another example is think about trying to push a brick with a sledge hammer. On way you put the hammer up agianst the brick and just give it a full force push, the other you take a swing at it... the second way you now have pebbles instead of a brick.
Same thing kinda with preload on the car, you are not letting all that power just impact the driveline with an instant huge shock/ impact force. Instead your loading the driveline beforehand to lessen the sudden launch force acting on it and remove the lash in the drivetrain that compounds it.
OK not the best example for visualizing but you probably get the idea.
Basically to do it at the drag strip, most people do as follows. Do their burnout, pull up to the line until they break the first staging mean which lights the first set of bulbs and almost the second. Then they apply either the ebrake or a line lock on the rear wheels. Next you would let out the clutch just enough for it to start engaging and pulling you forward that little bit more reuired to trip the second staging beam (which lights the second set of bulbs on the tree). Tree starts... next set of lights flash and bottom bulbs go green just as you release the brake and slip the clutch the rest of the way to full engagement and your off.
Hopefully a decent explination... sorry not the best. My understanding of it.
Edit: I see you found it before I saw this and typed my 2 cents... oh well... it killed some time at work I guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skimNrace »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that helped also , I didn't realize you only wanted to pull the first stage and let the preload pull you to the second stage
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats how most people do it so they do not roll out of the beams or stage too deep in the lights trying to preload on the 2nd bulb (some may do it slightly different, you just have to experiment a little to see what works best for you), the way suggested just is a bit better for avoiding red lighting imo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats how most people do it so they do not roll out of the beams or stage too deep in the lights trying to preload on the 2nd bulb (some may do it slightly different, you just have to experiment a little to see what works best for you), the way suggested just is a bit better for avoiding red lighting imo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats how most people do it so they do not roll out of the beams or stage too deep in the lights trying to preload on the 2nd bulb (some may do it slightly different, you just have to experiment a little to see what works best for you), the way suggested just is a bit better for avoiding red lighting imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I'm not interested in staging ,is this the only real reason to preload?? I like the benefit of reducing the shock to my drive train and maybe get better '60's??? Will it help in those departments??
thats how most people do it so they do not roll out of the beams or stage too deep in the lights trying to preload on the 2nd bulb (some may do it slightly different, you just have to experiment a little to see what works best for you), the way suggested just is a bit better for avoiding red lighting imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I'm not interested in staging ,is this the only real reason to preload?? I like the benefit of reducing the shock to my drive train and maybe get better '60's??? Will it help in those departments??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well I'm not interested in staging ,is this the only real reason to preload?? I like the benefit of reducing the shock to my drive train and maybe get better '60's??? Will it help in those departments??</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, thats then general idea.
Well I'm not interested in staging ,is this the only real reason to preload?? I like the benefit of reducing the shock to my drive train and maybe get better '60's??? Will it help in those departments??</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, thats then general idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well preload is when you apply an initial load to the drivetrain before you actually launch to avoid the major shock load that normally hits the drivetrain, axles, motor mounts, etc. when you release a clutch very quickly when racing. This also removes any lash or slack in the drivetrain that kind of give parts a little "run" at each other before impacting.
Its like the difference between you walking up to a cardboard box, putting your foot on it, applying a little force and then giving it a full force push. As opposed to taking a run at it and giving it a swift full force kick. One way is going essentually leave you with a destroyed box.
Another example is think about trying to push a brick with a sledge hammer. On way you put the hammer up agianst the brick and just give it a full force push, the other you take a swing at it... the second way you now have pebbles instead of a brick.
Same thing kinda with preload on the car, you are not letting all that power just impact the driveline with an instant huge shock/ impact force. Instead your loading the driveline beforehand to lessen the sudden launch force acting on it and remove the lash in the drivetrain that compounds it.
OK not the best example for visualizing but you probably get the idea.
Basically to do it at the drag strip, most people do as follows. Do their burnout, pull up to the line until they break the first staging mean which lights the first set of bulbs and almost the second. Then they apply either the ebrake or a line lock on the rear wheels. Next you would let out the clutch just enough for it to start engaging and pulling you forward that little bit more reuired to trip the second staging beam (which lights the second set of bulbs on the tree).Tree starts... next set of lights flash and bottom bulbs go green just as you release the brake and slip the clutch the rest of the way to full engagement and your off.
Hopefully a decent explination... sorry not the best. My understanding of it.
Edit: I see you found it before I saw this and typed my 2 cents... oh well... it killed some time at work I guess. </TD></TR></TABLE>
okay at that part you mentioned you first gotta pull your ebrake up after you hit the first set of lights. then you engage your clutch abit to get your car to pull forward enough to set off the second set of staging lights. now the part where your still engaging the clutch i know you gotta do while preloading. and when you where doing that isnt your car still pulling forward before the green light goes thus risking you in going past the line?? sorry im a little confused with that explanation haha.
Its like the difference between you walking up to a cardboard box, putting your foot on it, applying a little force and then giving it a full force push. As opposed to taking a run at it and giving it a swift full force kick. One way is going essentually leave you with a destroyed box.
Another example is think about trying to push a brick with a sledge hammer. On way you put the hammer up agianst the brick and just give it a full force push, the other you take a swing at it... the second way you now have pebbles instead of a brick.
Same thing kinda with preload on the car, you are not letting all that power just impact the driveline with an instant huge shock/ impact force. Instead your loading the driveline beforehand to lessen the sudden launch force acting on it and remove the lash in the drivetrain that compounds it.
OK not the best example for visualizing but you probably get the idea.
Basically to do it at the drag strip, most people do as follows. Do their burnout, pull up to the line until they break the first staging mean which lights the first set of bulbs and almost the second. Then they apply either the ebrake or a line lock on the rear wheels. Next you would let out the clutch just enough for it to start engaging and pulling you forward that little bit more reuired to trip the second staging beam (which lights the second set of bulbs on the tree).Tree starts... next set of lights flash and bottom bulbs go green just as you release the brake and slip the clutch the rest of the way to full engagement and your off.
Hopefully a decent explination... sorry not the best. My understanding of it.
Edit: I see you found it before I saw this and typed my 2 cents... oh well... it killed some time at work I guess. </TD></TR></TABLE>
okay at that part you mentioned you first gotta pull your ebrake up after you hit the first set of lights. then you engage your clutch abit to get your car to pull forward enough to set off the second set of staging lights. now the part where your still engaging the clutch i know you gotta do while preloading. and when you where doing that isnt your car still pulling forward before the green light goes thus risking you in going past the line?? sorry im a little confused with that explanation haha.
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