Trying to replace the fuel filter in the mk4, but one of the connections is so tight it won't undo.

I've managed to get the mount bracket off and found it was all under a load of torsion pressure which has probably led to the tightness of the nut.

Anyway, its so tight the nut has haf rounded off and partially bent the mount in the top of the fuel filter into the filter it's self.

Holding the filter top pipe mount with a pair of pump pliers whilst undoing the nut (and not succeeding) has now partially twisted/bent the feed pipe from the tank (i guess its comign from the tank, not been able to get the car up to check)

Anyway, does anyone know where the input line to the filter comes from? and if its jointed anywhere or just goes straight back into the tank in one long run?

I'm gonna have to replace this pipe now as it's no longer in good condition and i still can't remove the old filter from it.


PS, its not rusted or corroded, just jammed tight.

Thanks for any help.

 

Yes, the hard line that comes from under the rear of the car goes all the way to the tank. You'll probably have to either re-flare the line or bend a new one...or get one from the dealer if they have it.

Are you using flare-nut wrenches?

 

no, i don't have any flare nut spanners and hadn't considered they existed, just looked them up, perhaps if i'd used them at the start, i *may* of been able to get it off.

However, i've just sawn the top quarter of the housing away, and it's still jammed solid, won't loosen at all, i can't believe it!

Does the line that runs under the car from the tank not get a joint before it bends up from the floor towards the top of the bulkhead behind the engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [F2C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MaDMaXX]

Does the line that runs under the car from the tank not get a joint before it bends up from the floor towards the top of the bulkhead behind the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You may be right, it looks like the line has a joint up next to the fuel tank...I was just up in there this weekend and I didn't notice it, but I wasn't really looking.



And here's the lines from the tank:



Looks like the hrd line is only $50, but shipping and availability will be a bitch...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [F2C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MaDMaXX]Trying to replace the fuel filter in the mk4, but one of the connections is so tight it won't undo.

I've managed to get the mount bracket off and found it was all under a load of torsion pressure which has probably led to the tightness of the nut.

Anyway, its so tight the nut has haf rounded off and partially bent the mount in the top of the fuel filter into the filter it's self.

Holding the filter top pipe mount with a pair of pump pliers whilst undoing the nut (and not succeeding) has now partially twisted/bent the feed pipe from the tank (i guess its comign from the tank, not been able to get the car up to check)

Anyway, does anyone know where the input line to the filter comes from? and if its jointed anywhere or just goes straight back into the tank in one long run?

I'm gonna have to replace this pipe now as it's no longer in good condition and i still can't remove the old filter from it.


PS, its not rusted or corroded, just jammed tight.

Thanks for any help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was in the same situation you are in with a little twist. This was with my civic, the bolt on the long line, that goes all the way to the tank, the threads got really jacked up on it. So here is what I did, I took my little pipe cuter, and went to the junk yard, cut off a good end, and made this...

see how the threads were messed up,





well, i cut it on a straight part, and got this little nifty thing at home dept for 2.50, greatest thing ever.



been leak free for over a year now.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1940278


cut the line after the nut, find someone parting out their prelude, and get a new nut.

go to autozone and get a flaring tool (maybe $15) and then re-flare the line.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like the hrd line is only $50, but shipping and availability will be a bitch...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondaautomotiveparts wouldnt ship it (thats what i was origionally going to do)

P.S. make sure you get a new fuel filter as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95greenlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1940278


cut the line after the nut, find someone parting out their prelude, and get a new nut.

go to autozone and get a flaring tool (maybe $15) and then re-flare the line.

Hondaautomotiveparts wouldnt ship it (thats what i was origionally going to do)

P.S. make sure you get a new fuel filter as well </TD></TR></TABLE>

true, but my option cost 2.50

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

true, but my option cost 2.50 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you have to flare the lines for that or does it have some sort of clamping deal on the inside?

 

ind why couldnt you reply to my thread!!!! argh!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you have to flare the lines for that or does it have some sort of clamping deal on the inside?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it is like 2 nuts, with a little copper cylinder inside, as you tighten, the cylinder compresses and seals the the 2 ends. No flaring reqired, you just have to go to a junk yard, and find a car with a good nut, and cut it. those are all the pictures I have, its kinda hard to explain without showing you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95greenlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ind why couldnt you reply to my thread!!!! argh! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't see it man, lol. I did that over a year ago, and I was in a panick because my prelude was in TX, and m civic was my only mode of transportation. I was just going through my toolbox, and found that, asked my dad what it could be used for, he said, shoot, why not? haven't had a problem since.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it is like 2 nuts, with a little copper cylinder inside, as you tighten, the cylinder compresses and seals the the 2 ends. No flaring reqired, you just have to go to a junk yard, and find a car with a good nut, and cut it. those are all the pictures I have, its kinda hard to explain without showing you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet That's good to know

That copper deal is called a ferrule BTW

 

btw, whatsa flaring tool look like, if you already have a flaring tool, that would be the way I would go, b/c no one can tell unless you tell them. You cant really notice on mine, but you can notice alot more than just replacing the nut, and re flaring the line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sweet That's good to know

That copper deal is called a ferrule BTW</TD></TR></TABLE>\

thanks, I had no idea what it was called. I just call it the little copper sealer doo hicky, my dad knew what I was talking about, lol