help!! b16a2 swap into ek hatch. misfire on cylinder 2. no fuel
i jst recently did a usdm b16a2 swap into my ek hatch using a p72 obd2a ecu.
im gettin a code 72 misfire in cylinder 2. i tried every method i could think of to fix the problem.
i replaced cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs. no luck
cylinder 2 is not getting any fuel. i unplug the injector clips on cylinder 2 and the car still runs normal, but when i did it to the rest of the cylinder , the car bogs.
i did it the same way to the spark plugs wire by unpluging one at a time. Cylinder 2 runs normal when its unplug when it suppose to bog.
i check all the voltage from ecu to injector clips to wires, still cant find the problem.
i even swap out ecu to a 97 p2p ecu, swap out injectors, same shiet.
any tips or any ideas would help.
TIA
im gettin a code 72 misfire in cylinder 2. i tried every method i could think of to fix the problem.
i replaced cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs. no luck
cylinder 2 is not getting any fuel. i unplug the injector clips on cylinder 2 and the car still runs normal, but when i did it to the rest of the cylinder , the car bogs.
i did it the same way to the spark plugs wire by unpluging one at a time. Cylinder 2 runs normal when its unplug when it suppose to bog.
i check all the voltage from ecu to injector clips to wires, still cant find the problem.
i even swap out ecu to a 97 p2p ecu, swap out injectors, same shiet.
any tips or any ideas would help.
TIA
you might have a compression or timing issue on that cylinder that keep it from properly firing get a compression tester and make sure. you might have bad rings, a valve that isnt seating properly or is stuck open. who knows maybe it doesnt even have a piston or the one in there has a large hole in it
damn thats not good if that is the case. i did a valve adjustment today and all the exhaust were tight and all the intake were loose. problem still not fix. imma do a compression test next
The injector may not be squirting fuel...just because it has voltage doesn't mean it's squirting (correct me if I'm wrong).
I'd try to get a hold of a technician's stethoscope...not a doctor's, a tech's.

It looks like a doctor's, but instead of the flat round end it will have a long, rod with a point on the end. Put the rod end on the injector and you should hear it ticking.
I'd try to get a hold of a technician's stethoscope...not a doctor's, a tech's.

It looks like a doctor's, but instead of the flat round end it will have a long, rod with a point on the end. Put the rod end on the injector and you should hear it ticking.
the problem is still there, but the car drives fine just idle rough.
i swap injectors , switch wires around, samething.
when i pull the spark plugs wire out or even the #2 injector clip out, the car still run normal when it suppose to bog or turns off.
when i do it to the rest of the cylinder, car turns off.
i swap injectors , switch wires around, samething.
when i pull the spark plugs wire out or even the #2 injector clip out, the car still run normal when it suppose to bog or turns off.
when i do it to the rest of the cylinder, car turns off.
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check the compression I dont think it is running on all four.. the rings might be shoot on it and thats why it doesnt blog/shut off. when you drive it and floor it does it sometime blog and take a second then start to go?
doesnt really bog when i step on it, but i know for sure that the car is runnin on 3 cylinder. imma check compression tomorrow. thanks for the tips
if you got spark, fuel, compression, and timing somewhere in the right ball park. it will run.
i tried working injectors, working dizzy, still misfire #2
firing order is correct
34
12
what are the symptoms for a burnt valve or a hole in the piston?
firing order is correct
34
12
what are the symptoms for a burnt valve or a hole in the piston?
before you start freaking out. find the required voltage, and the normal resistance for your injectors. get your hands on a multimeter, and check the amount of voltage going to the injector, with the car running. with the car off make sure the injector is within its required level of elecrical resistance in ohms. if it all checks out right then look and internals. a valve problem will most likely give you smoke (black), or fire in the tailpipe.if it were in your intake you would hear firing from your intake manifold a hole in the cylinder will give you really high crankcase pressure and the easiest way to check for that is to take off the oil cap, and feel for surging pressure release. if your rings are shot that will also give you a similar effect. either way its a major compression issue. it should be enough pressure to feel it gusting 12-18 inches above the valve cover. if your dipstick magically pops out on its own this would be a really obvious sign of really high crankcase pressure. they are both pretty serious problems. they arent too likely if the engine wasnt beaten really hard. for a long time. those metal screen track use only "air filters" will kill an engine in about 15-30k miles by getting excessive dirt in the engine and grinding at your rings and bearings. if it was run with low oil too often, or no oil at all you will have bad rings and bearings. once it starts it gets bad fast look for burning oil when you rev it up in neutral. (blue smoke) also look for what looks like really fine glitter in your oil.
thanks for the great info. so far i didnt see any of the symptoms of burnt valves , bad rings, or any crazy smokes coming out.
imma lookin more into the injectors or wiring
imma lookin more into the injectors or wiring
compression test came out to be
170-110-30-150
also did a wet compression looks good cuz compression didnt go up
leakdown test for cylinder 2 was 80% leak.
so would that be a bent valve?
170-110-30-150
also did a wet compression looks good cuz compression didnt go up
leakdown test for cylinder 2 was 80% leak.
so would that be a bent valve?
honestly with a leak down that bad no one can tell u what it is, could be a bent valve, chipped valve. bad rings chipped piston.. list goes on....
you got to remove the head and go from there
you got to remove the head and go from there
If you hear the air moving into the head, more than likely it's your valves. That sucks that you have come across a bad engine swap. Seems unlikely that it would have been your headgasket too. Pull that head and really find out.
thanks for the information guys.
damn 3 days of work for this damn engine.
i guess i need to get a hold of the guy i bought the engine from. he told me its a perfect motor , pass leakdown and compression test.
damn 3 days of work for this damn engine.
i guess i need to get a hold of the guy i bought the engine from. he told me its a perfect motor , pass leakdown and compression test.
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