Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91
I have a 00 em1 with a bastard motor. The car was at one point stolen and stripped. It now has a d16y8 block with a d16y5 head, also currently has a p2p ecu. The y5 exhaust manifold was cracked and I installed an ex exhaust manifold, new catalytic converter and catback exhaust. I had to lengthen the o2 sensor and move them under the car. All seemed to go just fine.
Yesterday, my kid was driving to school and the speedo quit. On the way home the car died. I got it home and checked the fuses. The number 15 was blown. I replaced it, charged the battery and drove it around. Everything was working.
Today I drove it to work to give it a longer test drive. On the way home, the speedo quit working. I made it home and checked the fuse.....still good. I started reading the repair manual and wondered why the cel didn't go on. I took the guage cluster out and discovered that the f&^$*&^@ing people that had it before me pulled the bulb........nice.
I put a bulb in from the washer fluid slot and did the jumper trick. I discovered that I had 6 cel codes:
17 - VSS
20 - Electrical Load Detector
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - Primary o2 sensor
65 - Secandary o2 sensor heater wire
91 - Fuel tank pressure sensor
Now what?
If I replace the vss, will the code 20 be solved ? What does a code 20 usually mean?
I have a 5sp transmission, so I don't need a knock sensor, right?
Need help
Also, does run smoothly from +/- 3000 to 5000 rpms. Seems like it really wants you to mash the pedal to the floor and give it all the gas you can, then she really spins.
Modified by civic stud at 7:27 PM 5/16/2007
Modified by civic stud at 10:15 PM 5/18/2007
Yesterday, my kid was driving to school and the speedo quit. On the way home the car died. I got it home and checked the fuses. The number 15 was blown. I replaced it, charged the battery and drove it around. Everything was working.
Today I drove it to work to give it a longer test drive. On the way home, the speedo quit working. I made it home and checked the fuse.....still good. I started reading the repair manual and wondered why the cel didn't go on. I took the guage cluster out and discovered that the f&^$*&^@ing people that had it before me pulled the bulb........nice.
I put a bulb in from the washer fluid slot and did the jumper trick. I discovered that I had 6 cel codes:
17 - VSS
20 - Electrical Load Detector
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - Primary o2 sensor
65 - Secandary o2 sensor heater wire
91 - Fuel tank pressure sensor
Now what?
If I replace the vss, will the code 20 be solved ? What does a code 20 usually mean?
I have a 5sp transmission, so I don't need a knock sensor, right?
Need help
Also, does run smoothly from +/- 3000 to 5000 rpms. Seems like it really wants you to mash the pedal to the floor and give it all the gas you can, then she really spins.
Modified by civic stud at 7:27 PM 5/16/2007
Modified by civic stud at 10:15 PM 5/18/2007
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From: DiEsLoW, Florida
dude... i don't know if changin the vss will make dat code 20 go away but i doubt it ( not 100% sure ). Try searching not sure if this one help :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1694130
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1694130
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91 (civic stud)
Sounds to me like you have some electrical problems. I would check ALL my connections and if they are not soldered and sealed, make it happen.
I used to re-wire swaps, but the work was so bad sometimes I lost money doing it, so I know your pains.
GL!
I used to re-wire swaps, but the work was so bad sometimes I lost money doing it, so I know your pains.
GL!
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From: WA, USA
Re: Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91 (civic stud)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
17 - VSS
20 - Electrical Load Detector
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - Primary o2 sensor
65 - Secandary o2 sensor heater wire
91 - Fuel tank pressure sensor
Now what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You got some stuff going on, thats for sure. Your best bet is to pick up a factory service manual (helms manual) from http://www.helminc.com.
17 - Check your connection, if it's intermitent, then the VSS may be failing. Chances are that if your speedo quit working, you would not throw a VSS cel, so I would check the connection at the VSS or the VSS itself.
20 - I usually never try to fix these. Everytime I've seen them it is in relation to a different CEL. Fix everything else and chances are that this code will go away by itself.
23 - Knock sensor. Yes you need it. It should be located above your water pipe and below your intake manifold. Make sure it is present and wired up.
41 - Could be the sensor or the wiring. Use the helms manual and run a continuity check on each wire. If the circuit is good, try replacing the sensor.
65 - Do the same thing for the code 41. A cheap test is to switch the 2 sensors. If the codes come back, then its the wiring, if they switch, then its the sensors.
91 - This is a sensor installed on your fuel tank. Refer to the helms as I've never really had to deal with these.
17 - VSS
20 - Electrical Load Detector
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - Primary o2 sensor
65 - Secandary o2 sensor heater wire
91 - Fuel tank pressure sensor
Now what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You got some stuff going on, thats for sure. Your best bet is to pick up a factory service manual (helms manual) from http://www.helminc.com.
17 - Check your connection, if it's intermitent, then the VSS may be failing. Chances are that if your speedo quit working, you would not throw a VSS cel, so I would check the connection at the VSS or the VSS itself.
20 - I usually never try to fix these. Everytime I've seen them it is in relation to a different CEL. Fix everything else and chances are that this code will go away by itself.
23 - Knock sensor. Yes you need it. It should be located above your water pipe and below your intake manifold. Make sure it is present and wired up.
41 - Could be the sensor or the wiring. Use the helms manual and run a continuity check on each wire. If the circuit is good, try replacing the sensor.
65 - Do the same thing for the code 41. A cheap test is to switch the 2 sensors. If the codes come back, then its the wiring, if they switch, then its the sensors.
91 - This is a sensor installed on your fuel tank. Refer to the helms as I've never really had to deal with these.
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91 (Slurp56)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You got some stuff going on, thats for sure. Your best bet is to pick up a factory service manual (helms manual) from http://www.helminc.com.
17 - Check your connection, if it's intermitent, then the VSS may be failing. Chances are that if your speedo quit working, you would not throw a VSS cel, so I would check the connection at the VSS or the VSS itself.
20 - I usually never try to fix these. Everytime I've seen them it is in relation to a different CEL. Fix everything else and chances are that this code will go away by itself.
23 - Knock sensor. Yes you need it. It should be located above your water pipe and below your intake manifold. Make sure it is present and wired up.
41 - Could be the sensor or the wiring. Use the helms manual and run a continuity check on each wire. If the circuit is good, try replacing the sensor.
65 - Do the same thing for the code 41. A cheap test is to switch the 2 sensors. If the codes come back, then its the wiring, if they switch, then its the sensors.
91 - This is a sensor installed on your fuel tank. Refer to the helms as I've never really had to deal with these.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since it has a p2p ecu from an ex and should have a p2n from an hx, how many of these codes is due to that? The primary should be throwing a code. Can I assume that I have an hx engine harness, because of the 5-wire o2 sensor and not a 4-wire from an ex/si?
Also, I have the honda 1996-2000 service manual (torquise color) in .pdf form. Is that different from the Helm's manual or the same thing? I can't find a pic of the helms manual to know for sure.
You got some stuff going on, thats for sure. Your best bet is to pick up a factory service manual (helms manual) from http://www.helminc.com.
17 - Check your connection, if it's intermitent, then the VSS may be failing. Chances are that if your speedo quit working, you would not throw a VSS cel, so I would check the connection at the VSS or the VSS itself.
20 - I usually never try to fix these. Everytime I've seen them it is in relation to a different CEL. Fix everything else and chances are that this code will go away by itself.
23 - Knock sensor. Yes you need it. It should be located above your water pipe and below your intake manifold. Make sure it is present and wired up.
41 - Could be the sensor or the wiring. Use the helms manual and run a continuity check on each wire. If the circuit is good, try replacing the sensor.
65 - Do the same thing for the code 41. A cheap test is to switch the 2 sensors. If the codes come back, then its the wiring, if they switch, then its the sensors.
91 - This is a sensor installed on your fuel tank. Refer to the helms as I've never really had to deal with these.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since it has a p2p ecu from an ex and should have a p2n from an hx, how many of these codes is due to that? The primary should be throwing a code. Can I assume that I have an hx engine harness, because of the 5-wire o2 sensor and not a 4-wire from an ex/si?
Also, I have the honda 1996-2000 service manual (torquise color) in .pdf form. Is that different from the Helm's manual or the same thing? I can't find a pic of the helms manual to know for sure.
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From: WA, USA
Re: Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91 (civic stud)
The .pdf manual you have is a digital copy of the real thing. Use that book to troubleshoot your car.
Not alot of these codes are due to the EX ECU. The EX and HX both have the same VSS, ELD, Secondary O2, and they should both have the fuel pressure sensor. Check the helms for that, on the circuit diagrams (starting about page 11-30) there should be an asterix with a subscript number that refers to a legend. The legend tells you what models had which sensor.
I would assume you've got an HX harness because of what you said about the 5 wire O2 sensor.
Not alot of these codes are due to the EX ECU. The EX and HX both have the same VSS, ELD, Secondary O2, and they should both have the fuel pressure sensor. Check the helms for that, on the circuit diagrams (starting about page 11-30) there should be an asterix with a subscript number that refers to a legend. The legend tells you what models had which sensor.
I would assume you've got an HX harness because of what you said about the 5 wire O2 sensor.
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From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: Help with codes 17,20,23,41,65 & 91 (civic stud)
There's usually an area of the stock harness that gets cut against the stock intake manifold support brace/bracket that bolts to the underside of the intake manifold. This is so common that there is a bulletin from Honda about this exact problem on the stock 96-98 Civic EX.
You probably had the damaged area on your harness and didn't know it, and then repositioning it in any way probably is allowing two wires to touch, and thus short out and pop that 7.5 (number 15) fuse in the under dash fuse box. This is particularly common any time an engine is swapped ino the car.
The Honda service bulletin number is 99-029 and it was released in April of 1999. you can probably look it up online for the pics of the affected area of the stock engine harness.
I'd post the info, but All Data here at work doesn't met me save pics or data for obvious reasons.
...actually I guess I could print the article, then scan it, but honestly I stay too busy here to have time for that.
...and this problem will almost always trigger the VSS, 02 codes, and ELD codes at once. Fix the problem with a new harness or repair the old one, then I doubt most of those codes will even come back.
You probably had the damaged area on your harness and didn't know it, and then repositioning it in any way probably is allowing two wires to touch, and thus short out and pop that 7.5 (number 15) fuse in the under dash fuse box. This is particularly common any time an engine is swapped ino the car.
The Honda service bulletin number is 99-029 and it was released in April of 1999. you can probably look it up online for the pics of the affected area of the stock engine harness.
I'd post the info, but All Data here at work doesn't met me save pics or data for obvious reasons.
...actually I guess I could print the article, then scan it, but honestly I stay too busy here to have time for that.
...and this problem will almost always trigger the VSS, 02 codes, and ELD codes at once. Fix the problem with a new harness or repair the old one, then I doubt most of those codes will even come back.
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (93egsir)
Thanks guys. I didn't clear the ecu. I had my head up my..... and figured no cel, no fuss. It was only after checking the cel bulb that I even bothered to pull codes (that works slick).
I'll clear the ecu when I get home and starter her up to check codes again.
I pulled the No. 15 fuse last night before I pull codes and it looked good. I didn't but a meter on it, but will look into it closer tonight as well.
I hate the .pdf version of the manual, seems hard to find what you want. Nothing like holding it in your hands.
Keep comments coming, the more I get, the clearer the picture becomes.
I'll clear the ecu when I get home and starter her up to check codes again.
I pulled the No. 15 fuse last night before I pull codes and it looked good. I didn't but a meter on it, but will look into it closer tonight as well.
I hate the .pdf version of the manual, seems hard to find what you want. Nothing like holding it in your hands.
Keep comments coming, the more I get, the clearer the picture becomes.
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
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From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (civic stud)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Found the service bulletin. Thanks.
http://www.hondalac.com/servic...e.pdf
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice info huh?
http://www.hondalac.com/servic...e.pdf
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice info huh?
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From: WA, USA
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice info huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, thanks for the info, thats news to me
Nice info huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn, thanks for the info, thats news to me
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice info huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Got anymore that we should know about?
Nice info huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Got anymore that we should know about?
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (93egsir)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you cleared the codes to see if they come back see if you replacing the fuse once before took care of the problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reset ecu last night and lost two codes. The knock sensor (23) and the fuel tank pressure sensor (91) have cleared up. The other four are still there.
I found a short in the secondary o2 sensor where it had touched the pipe and melted. I assume that is when the fuse blew.
I tried the service bulletin procedures and got all the way to step 6. I couldn't get my big mit in there well enough to get the clip off. It did appear that the harness was indeed rubbing on the intake mani support bracket.
Also, what is the c115 connector refrenced in the service bulletin used for? There wasn't anything plugged into it.
Reset ecu last night and lost two codes. The knock sensor (23) and the fuel tank pressure sensor (91) have cleared up. The other four are still there.
I found a short in the secondary o2 sensor where it had touched the pipe and melted. I assume that is when the fuse blew.
I tried the service bulletin procedures and got all the way to step 6. I couldn't get my big mit in there well enough to get the clip off. It did appear that the harness was indeed rubbing on the intake mani support bracket.
Also, what is the c115 connector refrenced in the service bulletin used for? There wasn't anything plugged into it.
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From: WA, USA
Re: (civic stud)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, what is the c115 connector refrenced in the service bulletin used for? There wasn't anything plugged into it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was it just an open connector or was there a cap in the end?
Also, what is the c115 connector refrenced in the service bulletin used for? There wasn't anything plugged into it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was it just an open connector or was there a cap in the end?
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (Slurp56)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Was it just an open connector or was there a cap in the end?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it was capped off, but it was tough to see it. I felt it to make sure there was nothing plugged into it and didn't feel any prongs. I'll try to get a peek at it tonight. The service bulletin shows wires leaving it.
What are you think?
Was it just an open connector or was there a cap in the end?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it was capped off, but it was tough to see it. I felt it to make sure there was nothing plugged into it and didn't feel any prongs. I'll try to get a peek at it tonight. The service bulletin shows wires leaving it.
What are you think?
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From: Severn, MD
Re: (civic stud)
C115 is just a bus connector for both power (Blk/Yel) and ground (Grn/Blk) signals...all of these in particular.
Did you repair the short in the secondary O2 wire (and reset the ECU)? The primary and secondary O2 heaters, along with the VSS and ELD are all powered off the same fuse, as has been mentioned.
Did you repair the short in the secondary O2 wire (and reset the ECU)? The primary and secondary O2 heaters, along with the VSS and ELD are all powered off the same fuse, as has been mentioned.
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Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">C115 is just a bus connector for both power (Blk/Yel) and ground (Grn/Blk) signals...all of these in particular.
Did you repair the short in the secondary O2 wire (and reset the ECU)? The primary and secondary O2 heaters, along with the VSS and ELD are all powered off the same fuse, as has been mentioned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I found the spot on the primary o2 sensor that melted to the bare wire and ground out. The wire looked fine, so I tape wrapped it a couple times as well as the wires next to it, then rewrapped all of them.
After that was done, I reset the ecu and pulled the codes 20, 41 and 65. I think that I will pull a cel for the primary since I have an ex ecu and should have an hx ecu, not sure on that though.
I took it for a drive and it still charges, but the speedo does not work. I then pulled codes and a fourth was added. Number 17 this time, which is the vss. When I lost the speedo on Wednesday, I could have sworn that I heard a "pop", but will not bet on that. I looked into trying to see if the vss was bad, but the repair manual says I need a jumper or teat harness to check, which I dont have.
Fuse is good
Would the speedo and or vss have anything to do with the ELD, or is that a short issue?
Did you repair the short in the secondary O2 wire (and reset the ECU)? The primary and secondary O2 heaters, along with the VSS and ELD are all powered off the same fuse, as has been mentioned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I found the spot on the primary o2 sensor that melted to the bare wire and ground out. The wire looked fine, so I tape wrapped it a couple times as well as the wires next to it, then rewrapped all of them.
After that was done, I reset the ecu and pulled the codes 20, 41 and 65. I think that I will pull a cel for the primary since I have an ex ecu and should have an hx ecu, not sure on that though.
I took it for a drive and it still charges, but the speedo does not work. I then pulled codes and a fourth was added. Number 17 this time, which is the vss. When I lost the speedo on Wednesday, I could have sworn that I heard a "pop", but will not bet on that. I looked into trying to see if the vss was bad, but the repair manual says I need a jumper or teat harness to check, which I dont have.
Fuse is good
Would the speedo and or vss have anything to do with the ELD, or is that a short issue?
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From: Severn, MD
Re: (civic stud)
Even though you switched which O2 sensor had its wire melted (secondary at first then you went to primary just now), I'm assuming it's still only ONE O2 sensor that had its wire shorted. True?
That 15A 'alternator' fuse powers:
ELD (Code 20)
Gauge Assembly
Primary O2 heater (Code 41)
Secondary O2 heater (Code 65)
a lot of EVAP valves
VSS (Code 17)
Alternator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I lost the speedo on Wednesday, I could have sworn that I heard a "pop", but will not bet on that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you check the fuse...again? Why are you intent on getting an Hx ECU? If anything, you need to just get an Ex/Si harness and be done with it. That Hx wideband O2 is a bit spendy...as in...more than a new harness. And then you have to rewire it for the other 4-wire O2. From the sounds of it, this harness is just going to be a headache, more than anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took it for a drive and it still charges,</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you know? Is it spitting out ~12.6v or so?
That 15A 'alternator' fuse powers:
ELD (Code 20)
Gauge Assembly
Primary O2 heater (Code 41)
Secondary O2 heater (Code 65)
a lot of EVAP valves
VSS (Code 17)
Alternator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I lost the speedo on Wednesday, I could have sworn that I heard a "pop", but will not bet on that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you check the fuse...again? Why are you intent on getting an Hx ECU? If anything, you need to just get an Ex/Si harness and be done with it. That Hx wideband O2 is a bit spendy...as in...more than a new harness. And then you have to rewire it for the other 4-wire O2. From the sounds of it, this harness is just going to be a headache, more than anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic stud »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took it for a drive and it still charges,</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you know? Is it spitting out ~12.6v or so?
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even though you switched which O2 sensor had its wire melted (secondary at first then you went to primary just now), I'm assuming it's still only ONE O2 sensor that had its wire shorted. True?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only one wire was shorted out. The one in the cat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check the fuse...again? Why are you intent on getting an Hx ECU? If anything, you need to just get an Ex/Si harness and be done with it. That Hx wideband O2 is a bit spendy...as in...more than a new harness. And then you have to rewire it for the other 4-wire O2. From the sounds of it, this harness is just going to be a headache, more than anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I checked for continuity on the fuse and it is good.
My reasoning behind getting the hx ecu is twofold.
1. The hx's vtec-e is supposed to engage at about 2800 rpms. It runs on 12 valves (i've read both 8 and 12, so not real sure) until vtec, then uses all sixteen. With the p2p ecu that is currently in it, the vtec engages at 4800 rpms or so. I think its not running right from +/- 3000 to 5000 rpms because of the way the hx valve and vtec work. It seems like it wants you to mash the pedal to the floor to keep running good. Any of that ound right?
2. The hx wideband o2 sensor is 5 wire and I don't think the p2p ecu can read that sensor. The engine harness is also a 5-wire, so I would have to replace the harness to get the o2 sensor to work. Then the egr valve wouldn't work either, right?
I may be way off on this and thats why I'm on forums like this, to get answers from other guys who know more then I do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know? Is it spitting out ~12.6v or so?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I only charged it enough after I replaced the fuse on tuesday to get it running. I let it idle and turned averything on that i could. I've driven it around and left the radio playing since then and its still starting . I never actually checked how much volts its kicking out since it keeps up with what I've been useing.
Any suggestion as to what to do from here setup wise is appreciated. I'm not against anything at this point. I like the idea of getting the best fuel mileage that I can and the hx head seems to be the way to go.
Only one wire was shorted out. The one in the cat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check the fuse...again? Why are you intent on getting an Hx ECU? If anything, you need to just get an Ex/Si harness and be done with it. That Hx wideband O2 is a bit spendy...as in...more than a new harness. And then you have to rewire it for the other 4-wire O2. From the sounds of it, this harness is just going to be a headache, more than anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I checked for continuity on the fuse and it is good.
My reasoning behind getting the hx ecu is twofold.
1. The hx's vtec-e is supposed to engage at about 2800 rpms. It runs on 12 valves (i've read both 8 and 12, so not real sure) until vtec, then uses all sixteen. With the p2p ecu that is currently in it, the vtec engages at 4800 rpms or so. I think its not running right from +/- 3000 to 5000 rpms because of the way the hx valve and vtec work. It seems like it wants you to mash the pedal to the floor to keep running good. Any of that ound right?
2. The hx wideband o2 sensor is 5 wire and I don't think the p2p ecu can read that sensor. The engine harness is also a 5-wire, so I would have to replace the harness to get the o2 sensor to work. Then the egr valve wouldn't work either, right?
I may be way off on this and thats why I'm on forums like this, to get answers from other guys who know more then I do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know? Is it spitting out ~12.6v or so?
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I only charged it enough after I replaced the fuse on tuesday to get it running. I let it idle and turned averything on that i could. I've driven it around and left the radio playing since then and its still starting . I never actually checked how much volts its kicking out since it keeps up with what I've been useing.
Any suggestion as to what to do from here setup wise is appreciated. I'm not against anything at this point. I like the idea of getting the best fuel mileage that I can and the hx head seems to be the way to go.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Somewhere in the Heartland
Re: (civic stud)
***** Update *****
As B18C5-EH2 posted, there was a short in the harness under the intake manifold as per the service bulletin.
I am still throwing two codes, number 23 and 41.
I don't have time to check out the knock sensor tonight, but hope to get to it by the weekend. Any tips out there for dealing with this?
As B18C5-EH2 posted, there was a short in the harness under the intake manifold as per the service bulletin.
I am still throwing two codes, number 23 and 41.
I don't have time to check out the knock sensor tonight, but hope to get to it by the weekend. Any tips out there for dealing with this?