cold days.
yea you can drive if you just start it up. just easily drive off short shifting. the shifts are going to be a lil rough and the ride a bit jerky but yea.
its always best to warm it up though even for a minute. but to answer your questions....yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20strong »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always let it sit till the RPM's get to 1200 or 1000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i like to start my car and grab a quick bowl of cereal in the morning
its always best to warm it up though even for a minute. but to answer your questions....yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20strong »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always let it sit till the RPM's get to 1200 or 1000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i like to start my car and grab a quick bowl of cereal in the morning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HA0LEFIED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it okay to jsut start up and go? as long as you dont smash around?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
I'll typically allow my car to idle for a minute or two while I'm getting ready to leave but you can just hop in and go. If its really cold you'll experience some jerkiness/hesitation but drive it easy and it'll be fine within a few minutes.
Yes.
I'll typically allow my car to idle for a minute or two while I'm getting ready to leave but you can just hop in and go. If its really cold you'll experience some jerkiness/hesitation but drive it easy and it'll be fine within a few minutes.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HA0LEFIED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it okay to jsut start up and go? as long as you dont smash around?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I know in my SI, if I just start and go the car bucks. I usually wait for 2 or more clicks on the temp gauge before going. Then, I take it very easy until the temp gauge is up towards normal.
Luckly the engine seems to warm up quickly.
Well, I know in my SI, if I just start and go the car bucks. I usually wait for 2 or more clicks on the temp gauge before going. Then, I take it very easy until the temp gauge is up towards normal.
Luckly the engine seems to warm up quickly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drr86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I usually let mine chill until it gets to 1500 or lower... I'm usually in a slight hurry, but still don't get on it until its fully warmed up</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
SMo'
x2
SMo'
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMoLiK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
x2
SMo'</TD></TR></TABLE>
x3
Engine temp /=/ ambient temp, FYI. If it's warm or cold out I wait until it's at 1500RPM idle.
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SMo'</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Engine temp /=/ ambient temp, FYI. If it's warm or cold out I wait until it's at 1500RPM idle.
let idle for a minute then just drive easy to let it warm up the rest. by letting warm up for a minute you are letting the oil travel all the way to the valves and back down. you want oil everywere before you drive off.
Modified by sleeperone at 1:34 PM 5/17/2007
Modified by sleeperone at 1:34 PM 5/17/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bad bad bad. always warm up a motor. you know what your doing when you dont warm it up right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
warming it up quicker
i read some **** about oil being clumpy and not lubricating properly...................?
I've seen oil at outside temps and ive never seen it being anything but runny. If its cold as hell at mountians or something i let it warm up. Other then that only carburated cars need to warm up.
bad bad bad. always warm up a motor. you know what your doing when you dont warm it up right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
warming it up quicker
i read some **** about oil being clumpy and not lubricating properly...................?
I've seen oil at outside temps and ive never seen it being anything but runny. If its cold as hell at mountians or something i let it warm up. Other then that only carburated cars need to warm up.
like other guy said
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> by letting warm up for a minute you are letting the oil travel all the way to the valves and back down. you wany oil everywere before you drive off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If even possible, take the head off and start your car. I gaurantee oil will be everywhere in half a second. When idling the things at 1800-2000RPM cold. The oil is lubin everything up pretty well without it revin 2 gajillion times. Keep in mind after the car sits not all oil goes back into the pan. It also stays in the motor. How can it lube more than that. maybe i just dont understand, which is possible
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> by letting warm up for a minute you are letting the oil travel all the way to the valves and back down. you wany oil everywere before you drive off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If even possible, take the head off and start your car. I gaurantee oil will be everywhere in half a second. When idling the things at 1800-2000RPM cold. The oil is lubin everything up pretty well without it revin 2 gajillion times. Keep in mind after the car sits not all oil goes back into the pan. It also stays in the motor. How can it lube more than that. maybe i just dont understand, which is possible
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bad bad bad. always warm up a motor. you know what your doing when you dont warm it up right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't post mythical misinformation...
"Idling just wears the engine without budging the odometer. Les Ryder, chief powertrain engineer at Ford, says, "Engines run best at their design temperature." To get there sooner, start by driving at moderate speeds. Your engine will be okay: Modern oils flow fine in cold weather."
bad bad bad. always warm up a motor. you know what your doing when you dont warm it up right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't post mythical misinformation...
"Idling just wears the engine without budging the odometer. Les Ryder, chief powertrain engineer at Ford, says, "Engines run best at their design temperature." To get there sooner, start by driving at moderate speeds. Your engine will be okay: Modern oils flow fine in cold weather."
You do realise that the idle is computer controlled when you first start the car up not only to warm up the engine quickly but to promote oiling... So why not let it sit for a little while and let it take care of itself (the way it was programmed to) instead of putting a load on the engine and varying the RPM's...
SMo'
SMo'
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this is not a myth, its a fact!!!!!!!!
okay more wear and tear for you. do you know how much wear and tear is going on to an engine that is cold compared to a warm engine? let me explain. how much does your car weigh? close to 3k pounds. you are making a cold engine that is not properly lubricated lug a 3000 pounds of metal. If not lubricated, there will be a lot more friction, therefore more wear and tear. Engine oil works best when its warm/hot
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You really have no idea what you're talking about... I agree that letting it warm up for a minute or so is fine but letting it idle in your driveway until the temp is at a normal level is useless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once a vehicle is running, the best way to warm it up is to drive it. Driving cuts warm-up times in half. With computer-controlled, fuel-injected engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away. Older cars should only warm for a couple of minutes. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.
More than the engine needs to be warmed up - so do the wheel bearings, steering, suspension, transmission and tires, all of which can be done only when the vehicle is moving. Avoid high speeds and rapid acceleration for the first three miles or so. The goal is to bring the whole vehicle up to peak operating temperature as quickly as possible while maximizing fuel economy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Avoid idling your vehicle, in both summer and winter. Idling wastes fuel, gets you nowhere and produces unnecessary greenhouse gases. If you're going to be stopped for more than 30 seconds, except in traffic, turn off the engine. In winter, don't idle a cold engine for more than 30 seconds before driving away. (Older vehicles, however, may need more idling time when first started. In cold, winter conditions all vehicles may need more idling time to warm up and ensure the windshield is fully defogged. Be sure your vehicle is warmed enough to prevent stalling when you pull out.) </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Warming up the engine: Though it is very important not to start driving before your engine is warmed up. Do not warm it up with too long idling - 60 to 100 seconds is usually enough time to allow your engine to idle. A cold engine will warm up faster when the vehicle is being driven than when left to idle for long periods of time. When the weather is unusually cold, remember to drive at slower speeds for a few miles to give your car time to warm up</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is not a myth, its a fact!!!!!!!!
okay more wear and tear for you. do you know how much wear and tear is going on to an engine that is cold compared to a warm engine? let me explain. how much does your car weigh? close to 3k pounds. you are making a cold engine that is not properly lubricated lug a 3000 pounds of metal. If not lubricated, there will be a lot more friction, therefore more wear and tear. Engine oil works best when its warm/hot
</TD></TR></TABLE>You really have no idea what you're talking about... I agree that letting it warm up for a minute or so is fine but letting it idle in your driveway until the temp is at a normal level is useless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once a vehicle is running, the best way to warm it up is to drive it. Driving cuts warm-up times in half. With computer-controlled, fuel-injected engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away. Older cars should only warm for a couple of minutes. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.
More than the engine needs to be warmed up - so do the wheel bearings, steering, suspension, transmission and tires, all of which can be done only when the vehicle is moving. Avoid high speeds and rapid acceleration for the first three miles or so. The goal is to bring the whole vehicle up to peak operating temperature as quickly as possible while maximizing fuel economy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Avoid idling your vehicle, in both summer and winter. Idling wastes fuel, gets you nowhere and produces unnecessary greenhouse gases. If you're going to be stopped for more than 30 seconds, except in traffic, turn off the engine. In winter, don't idle a cold engine for more than 30 seconds before driving away. (Older vehicles, however, may need more idling time when first started. In cold, winter conditions all vehicles may need more idling time to warm up and ensure the windshield is fully defogged. Be sure your vehicle is warmed enough to prevent stalling when you pull out.) </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Warming up the engine: Though it is very important not to start driving before your engine is warmed up. Do not warm it up with too long idling - 60 to 100 seconds is usually enough time to allow your engine to idle. A cold engine will warm up faster when the vehicle is being driven than when left to idle for long periods of time. When the weather is unusually cold, remember to drive at slower speeds for a few miles to give your car time to warm up</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this is not a myth, its a fact!!!!!!!!
okay more wear and tear for you. do you know how much wear and tear is going on to an engine that is cold compared to a warm engine? let me explain. how much does your car weigh? close to 3k pounds. you are making a cold engine that is not properly lubricated lug a 3000 pounds of metal. If not lubricated, there will be a lot more friction, therefore more wear and tear. Engine oil works best when its warm/hot
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just because your father said it doesn't make it a fact. It is lubricated because when it is started, the oil begins to flow. Engine oil in this day and age, is advanced enough to work properly in warm/cold. Don't try and be a Mr. Know-it-all when you are misleading others.

I'm not talking about turning the key and mashing the gas, but I'm also not saying the car needs to warm up at all.
I personally will start my car, pull out of the garage, close my garage, and drive off at a decent pace. By the time I drive off, my idle has come down to normal, and i have 1-2bars on the temp gauge at most.
I don't rev over 3000rpm until the temp gauge is at least 5-9 bars, because my VTEC engagement window starts at 3000rpm, and won't engage properly when the engine hasn't warmed up yet.
this is not a myth, its a fact!!!!!!!!
okay more wear and tear for you. do you know how much wear and tear is going on to an engine that is cold compared to a warm engine? let me explain. how much does your car weigh? close to 3k pounds. you are making a cold engine that is not properly lubricated lug a 3000 pounds of metal. If not lubricated, there will be a lot more friction, therefore more wear and tear. Engine oil works best when its warm/hot
</TD></TR></TABLE>Just because your father said it doesn't make it a fact. It is lubricated because when it is started, the oil begins to flow. Engine oil in this day and age, is advanced enough to work properly in warm/cold. Don't try and be a Mr. Know-it-all when you are misleading others.

I'm not talking about turning the key and mashing the gas, but I'm also not saying the car needs to warm up at all.
I personally will start my car, pull out of the garage, close my garage, and drive off at a decent pace. By the time I drive off, my idle has come down to normal, and i have 1-2bars on the temp gauge at most.
I don't rev over 3000rpm until the temp gauge is at least 5-9 bars, because my VTEC engagement window starts at 3000rpm, and won't engage properly when the engine hasn't warmed up yet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by COMplex. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just because your father said it doesn't make it a fact. It is lubricated because when it is started, the oil begins to flow. Engine oil in this day and age, is advanced enough to work properly in warm/cold. Don't try and be a Mr. Know-it-all when you are misleading others.

I'm not talking about turning the key and mashing the gas, but I'm also not saying the car needs to warm up at all.
I personally will start my car, pull out of the garage, close my garage, and drive off at a decent pace. By the time I drive off, my idle has come down to normal, and i have 1-2bars on the temp gauge at most.
I don't rev over 3000rpm until the temp gauge is at least 5-9 bars, because my VTEC engagement window starts at 3000rpm, and won't engage properly when the engine hasn't warmed up yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
JUST BECAUSE YOU SAID IT DOESNT MEAN ITS A FACT. IT LOOKS LIKE YOUR TRYING TO BE A MR KNOW IT ALL YOURSELF TOO HYPOCRITE
whatever, do what you want, ill continue to warm up my engine every morning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRE_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You really have no idea what you're talking about... I agree that letting it warm up for a minute or so is fine but letting it idle in your driveway until the temp is at a normal level is useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said to let it warm up to normal temps. i just dont drive off the second i turn on the car. i warm it up for a minute or until the rpm reaches 1.3/4k rpms
Just because your father said it doesn't make it a fact. It is lubricated because when it is started, the oil begins to flow. Engine oil in this day and age, is advanced enough to work properly in warm/cold. Don't try and be a Mr. Know-it-all when you are misleading others.

I'm not talking about turning the key and mashing the gas, but I'm also not saying the car needs to warm up at all.
I personally will start my car, pull out of the garage, close my garage, and drive off at a decent pace. By the time I drive off, my idle has come down to normal, and i have 1-2bars on the temp gauge at most.
I don't rev over 3000rpm until the temp gauge is at least 5-9 bars, because my VTEC engagement window starts at 3000rpm, and won't engage properly when the engine hasn't warmed up yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
JUST BECAUSE YOU SAID IT DOESNT MEAN ITS A FACT. IT LOOKS LIKE YOUR TRYING TO BE A MR KNOW IT ALL YOURSELF TOO HYPOCRITE
whatever, do what you want, ill continue to warm up my engine every morning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRE_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You really have no idea what you're talking about... I agree that letting it warm up for a minute or so is fine but letting it idle in your driveway until the temp is at a normal level is useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said to let it warm up to normal temps. i just dont drive off the second i turn on the car. i warm it up for a minute or until the rpm reaches 1.3/4k rpms
Do you even own a 2006+ Civic or do you just enjoying trolling around on this forum and spreading misinformation?
Judging from some of your previous posts you should probably stick to asking questions and not trying to answer them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">96 accord...how do i remove the shift ****?
i need step by step instructions
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Judging from some of your previous posts you should probably stick to asking questions and not trying to answer them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">96 accord...how do i remove the shift ****?
i need step by step instructions
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMFAO!!
let your race car warm up, it needs it
your 06 or 07 doesn't need to be "babied" in order to function correctly and ensure a long life... Honda already designed all of that in.. The computer doesn't let you hit vtec when it's cold for a reason.. Honda builds in a ECU map for startup that takes it easy on the motor... But if you don't think they did a good enough job, you bought the wrong car. Honda engineers are pretty smart, believe it or not.
let your race car warm up, it needs it
your 06 or 07 doesn't need to be "babied" in order to function correctly and ensure a long life... Honda already designed all of that in.. The computer doesn't let you hit vtec when it's cold for a reason.. Honda builds in a ECU map for startup that takes it easy on the motor... But if you don't think they did a good enough job, you bought the wrong car. Honda engineers are pretty smart, believe it or not.
And honestly, the only reason why I let my car warm up a little before I drive is due to the cold stuttering that can be pretty harsh on these cars. As well as transmission woes. Letting your car idle more than 2 minutes (unless you are having it re-learn after removing the battery) is not necessary.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
JUST BECAUSE YOU SAID IT DOESNT MEAN ITS A FACT. IT LOOKS LIKE YOUR TRYING TO BE A MR KNOW IT ALL YOURSELF TOO HYPOCRITE
whatever, do what you want, ill continue to warm up my engine every morning.
i never said to let it warm up to normal temps. i just dont drive off the second i turn on the car. i warm it up for a minute or until the rpm reaches 1.3/4k rpms
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is a fact because I am right and you are wrong. That is the difference. I am not the one spreading around misinformation. Therefore I am not a hypocrite.
Writing in CAPS doesn't make you any less wrong.
JUST BECAUSE YOU SAID IT DOESNT MEAN ITS A FACT. IT LOOKS LIKE YOUR TRYING TO BE A MR KNOW IT ALL YOURSELF TOO HYPOCRITE
whatever, do what you want, ill continue to warm up my engine every morning.
i never said to let it warm up to normal temps. i just dont drive off the second i turn on the car. i warm it up for a minute or until the rpm reaches 1.3/4k rpms
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is a fact because I am right and you are wrong. That is the difference. I am not the one spreading around misinformation. Therefore I am not a hypocrite.
Writing in CAPS doesn't make you any less wrong.


