What does removing the coolant line from underneath the throttle body do? I noticed the Realtime Rs
What does removing the coolant line from underneath the throttle body do? What do you do with the line after you disconnect it from the throttle body?
[Modified by JUNtypeR, 9:24 AM 6/1/2002]
[Modified by JUNtypeR, 9:24 AM 6/1/2002]
I am thinking if you remove the coolant line which runs through the throttle body you can lower the temperature of the throttle body itself, therefore lower the air temp of the air coming through the throttle body(increased power).
I am I right? Can someone give me their explanation for doing this?
I am I right? Can someone give me their explanation for doing this?
....removing coolant lines to keep something cooler...
thats a interesting thought. can you explain why you would say this?
thats a interesting thought. can you explain why you would say this?
If you have a CAI i would imagine that the Air an TB are cooler than your coolant temp would be if you were on track.
It prevents the tb from heating up. The coolant lines are there to help with initial start up, there are sensor on the throttle body that have a wax surrond that needs to melt/soften as the car gets to temp. Removing the lines will help keep the inlet air temp lower, but on colder/winter days it will take longer to warn up.
mattj
mattj
It prevents the tb from heating up. The coolant lines are there to help with initial start up, there are sensor on the throttle body that have a wax surrond that needs to melt/soften as the car gets to temp. Removing the lines will help keep the inlet air temp lower, but on colder/winter days it will take longer to warn up.
mattj
mattj
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A male/male hose barb is all that is needed. SImply pull out both the inlet and outlet lines from the TB, loop them and clamp.
Idle will suffer, will it not?
EDIT-missing word
[Modified by sackdz, 10:38 AM 6/1/2002]
It prevents the tb from heating up. The coolant lines are there to help with initial start up, there are sensor on the throttle body that have a wax surrond that needs to melt/soften as the car gets to temp. Removing the lines will help keep the inlet air temp lower, but on colder/winter days it will take longer to warn up.
mattj
mattj
Coolant is there to help the TB heat up faster to prevent sticking at cold temps.
Same goes for the Idle Air Control Valve on the back side of the manifold.
Not necessary to function, just there to help function during harsh conditions.
FYI, I run 0 coolant anywhere on the manifold. I even removed the Bypass(large hose
that comes out from the manifold).
also FYI, Idle will not change UNLESS you have an older car with a fast idle valve
and you do not plug the airway after removing the coolant lines.
anyone know where i can get a pic of this, i want to just MAKE SURE im pulling the right hoses and clamping them together.
sgT- If i remove the coolant lines from the back on the iac will it take alot longer to warm up, becuase it wont idle around 1200 when i start up? Im guessing it will be fine since its getting warmer by me, and my car doesnt take long to get to operating temp.
Thanks
Thanks
or just tell me which 2 hoses i need to disconnect, tell me if im right, i believe one hose is the one thats kind of connected to the other hose running from the intake to the valve cover and the other hose is the one almost directly on the other side of it. also what size male/male connector do i need?
Idle will suffer, will it not?
I think the question that hasn't been answered by anyone, but what everyone wants to know is will it make more power?
I removed it on my Lube when the that hose burst, and just plugged the "T" off the lower coolant hose with a rubber stop that I secured with a hose clamp (ghetto I know, but I used stuff I already had at home and it took 5 minutes).
I took it for a scoot afterwards and the butt dyno registered nadda. No power diff. Only thing I did notice is on really cold days does stick a little off of fully closed. It's not stuck just sticky until the cars warms up.
I'm replacing it on Monday when the hose comes in.
I removed it on my Lube when the that hose burst, and just plugged the "T" off the lower coolant hose with a rubber stop that I secured with a hose clamp (ghetto I know, but I used stuff I already had at home and it took 5 minutes).
I took it for a scoot afterwards and the butt dyno registered nadda. No power diff. Only thing I did notice is on really cold days does stick a little off of fully closed. It's not stuck just sticky until the cars warms up.
I'm replacing it on Monday when the hose comes in.
it prevents the plate to freezing up when is cold outside, thats all it does
So this is something that is probably not worth doing then? It doesn't seem like it is worth the hassle to gain nothing out of it.
So this is something that is probably not worth doing then? It doesn't seem like it is worth the hassle to gain nothing out of it.
I imagine it would only gain you some horsepower if your really heat soaking.
And the only time this happens on NA cars is when sitting in traffic for 4 hours on a hot day. RE: Wasaga Beach...all the GTA boys know what I mean
And the only time this happens on NA cars is when sitting in traffic for 4 hours on a hot day. RE: Wasaga Beach...all the GTA boys know what I mean


