I know it's been covered many, many times, i read a few of them, but i would like to get a better idea that fits my setup.

What do u guys think?
I have most of these parts, some i need to get:

Skunk2 stg1 cams and cam gears
Type r springs and retainers
ferrea valves
Wiseco 11.5-11.8 pistons 81mm
Eagle rods
Arp head studs
All gaskets, bearings etc.
190 fuel pump already in car
b&m fpr
injen intake with k&n
skunk2 intake manifold
throttle body?? lookin for a good budget one!!
dc headers
chipped ecu
Fidanza flywheel
act 4 puck
n1 ctr crankpulley
msd ignition

The reason why im going with stg1 cams is b/c i contacted skunk2 and was told in order to make good power with the stg2 u need to rev up to 9k and raise the vtec to 6k. Im plannin on revin to 8-8.2. Will i need anything else for my fuel system? Injectors or Fuel rail??

 

application?

 

with the skunk stage 1 would he be able to break 200 whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the skunk stage 1 would he be able to break 200 whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe.

 

Will i be better off gettin a type r crankshaft, sgt2 cams, stiffer spring/retainers and rev up to 9k? I know a friend sellin a type r crankshaft.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deucedeuceteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will i be better off gettin a type r crankshaft, sgt2 cams, stiffer spring/retainers and rev up to 9k? I know a friend sellin a type r crankshaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what you have is fine. just because it's type r doesnt automatically make it better.

 

This is gonna be a fun street/strip car, i'm not a big fan of nitrous, I give lots of props to all motor builds but when i face a "big dog" i wanna be ready, what do u guys think direct port 50-75 shot!

 

even with that stage1 cams ur still gonna need to change vtec to 6k or else itll bog.. so mine as well get better springs and run stage 2s with that compression u got

 

Ok i just bought the stg2 cams and eagle crank to seal the deal, i just need springs and retainers

 

You're concerned on doing a fuel rail, yet no questions about engine management or tuning? Are you one of those guys that just throws a buncha parts at there car and expects it to go fast?

 

no i don't throw a bunch of parts, i know the fuel has to be right, timing,etc that's why u tune. right now im concerned about buildin the motor when it's done it'll get tuned!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deucedeuceteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i don't throw a bunch of parts, i know the fuel has to be right, timing,etc that's why u tune. right now im concerned about buildin the motor when it's done it'll get tuned!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuning should be part of your build plan...not something you do after it's completed. Right now it sounds like you are throwing parts at it with no real direction as to what you really want. The best builds are the ones that start off with a plan and end with a solid build...not the other way around.

 

ok.. im plannin on makin 200ish whp, pump gas, most likely s200 since i know a hondata tuner! u guys happy now??

 

i would run skunk2 stage 2's if you're looking to make 200+ whp.

 

i first bought the stg1 but then changed it for the stg2 along with springs and retainers and eagle crank, i wonderin what size injectors will i need?

 

Injector size is debatable but I went with RC 310's. They were cheap and available at the moment, I raised my rail pressure to 60 psi, injectors are aroung 80% duty cycle and I still get around 30 mpg with 207 whp.

If you can find either 370's or 310's for a decent price, go for it.

 

dc sports headers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk_hatch978 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dc sports headers

</TD></TR></TABLE>

whys that? i've heard good thing about DC's 4-1 header.

 

Dc headers are good for there cost. They don't move enough air when your going for a N/A or S/C application though. It will hold back the high end since the piping diameter is smaller then others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dc headers are good for there cost. They don't move enough air when your going for a N/A or S/C application though. It will hold back the high end since the piping diameter is smaller then others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whys that? i've heard good thing about DC's 4-1 header.</TD></TR></TABLE>

only their jdm 4-1 with 2.5'' collector is worth anything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

only their jdm 4-1 with 2.5'' collector is worth anything</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the one i heard good things about. is that different than the 4-1 header listed on their website?

 

the non jdm 4-1's have an itty bitty 2'' collector

 

yea my dc header does not align properly with my 2.5" piping, i know a friend running one from ebay 4-1 2.5 collector on a type r motor i/h/e, fpr, chipped ecu, lighter flywheel made 192whp bone stock motor. only paid 200 for it

 

alright check out the sig. then i would say go and get the skunk2 pro 1's, with some way better springs and retainers. next it just kinda depends and what your overall goal is with the car, anything under like 200would be fine with the DC type r replica's but you just have to think if that is all you want or more. Question tho why are you only planning to rev to 8 and 8.2 i mean i just rev to where the tuner or my setup allows. get the right parts and you can rev to 9.5 all day no problems??