In Desperate Help, car boggs at quick throttle************
Ok, here it goes. I replaced headgasket, ARP headstuds, cam gears, and timing belt over winter aswell as installing a Peakboost turbo kit on my B16A3 in a 95 Del Sol Vtec.(stock motor). walbro 155, DSM 450cc with 10w10ohm resistors, Aeromotive FPR....my car starts and has an idle of about 2000 then drops to 1500 after a little bit then casually floats around 1000-1200 and then eventually gets to like 7-800. If i give it quick throttle at regular idle it boggs out to 100 rpms and then recovers. I can slowly bring the rpms up thats the only way. If i continue to give it quick throttle the car will die out. if u attempt to drive it, it wants to instantly die unless u slowly bring the rpms up but as soon as u let out of the clutch it just drops to 100 and wants to die.... allhelp is needed, im clueless....
checked all connections, vac reads 25 at idle, im not throwing ne codes,
checked all connections, vac reads 25 at idle, im not throwing ne codes,
mine will do the same thing, at idel if i quickly tap the gas it will kinda bogg but other than that no problems
wonder if my iacv is out too
what causes the iacv to do this? does it just need to be replaced?
wonder if my iacv is out too
what causes the iacv to do this? does it just need to be replaced?
my car isnt even drivable, if u attempt to drive it, it boggs as soon as u let the clutch out and u gotta let the clutch out at like 2000 rpms, the IACV gets clogged up from sittin over time all the **** inside clumps up and solidifies....
ok so i did a voltage test on my TPS sensor because my car ran better with the TPS unplugged so....i did a voltage test and it always reads five when u open/close throttle so i figured it always thinks its wide open so when u go to open the throttle the car boggs cus it doesnt kno what to do... what do u think?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honduh8993 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basemap...and i tried someone elses map, and still does it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, basemap, that explains it all.
lol, basemap, that explains it all.
ok, i kno u say its because a basemap i understand that, but it culdnt even drive it, the reason of my basemap is to be able to drive it to get tuned....so i decided to move my dizzy forward a bit and it doesnt really bogg out nemore, but it still does once in awhile at first accel, and if i drive to give it alot of gas, its cuts out???? what is wrong here?
Is there such a thing as a **** base map?
When i connected my s300 with a basemap it ran like **** and did what you are saying... So i got a tuner to come to my house, and he put his own base map on the car and then it was ok (drivable) then we did a street tune and its running well... Now it needs a dyno just to clean the tune up
When i connected my s300 with a basemap it ran like **** and did what you are saying... So i got a tuner to come to my house, and he put his own base map on the car and then it was ok (drivable) then we did a street tune and its running well... Now it needs a dyno just to clean the tune up
basemap explains it all. you need to have someone do a basemap specificly for your car. i know when i got my s300 with a basemap for my car it ran like crap. kinda like yours. i had to tweak it some and get it right. thats just wat you'll have to do or tow it to the tuner. sorry
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honduh8993 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes im sure i dont have those reveresed, i went over every possibly thing it could be</TD></TR></TABLE>
I probably sound like a broken record, but take this advice or leave it. Its saved alot of headaches for other people...
You might try reversing the MAP and TPS harness plugs, even though you think its correct. With them reversed like I suggested earlier, the TPS will read 5 volts, and the MAP will read 22 hg to the ECU (I don't remember the exact voltage) - which retards your timing so much it bogs out at 3k RPM's. Everything your describing is what I went through in the past.
If you are absolutely positive thats not it, maybe your TPS sensor is bad. You mention that it reads a constant five volts, did you check for continuity between the terminals like the helms states?
Also make sure your ignition timing is on key - using a timing light. Don't forget to jump the service connector, and reset the ECU after.
I probably sound like a broken record, but take this advice or leave it. Its saved alot of headaches for other people...
You might try reversing the MAP and TPS harness plugs, even though you think its correct. With them reversed like I suggested earlier, the TPS will read 5 volts, and the MAP will read 22 hg to the ECU (I don't remember the exact voltage) - which retards your timing so much it bogs out at 3k RPM's. Everything your describing is what I went through in the past.
If you are absolutely positive thats not it, maybe your TPS sensor is bad. You mention that it reads a constant five volts, did you check for continuity between the terminals like the helms states?
Also make sure your ignition timing is on key - using a timing light. Don't forget to jump the service connector, and reset the ECU after.
Something else, who wrote your base map? Are you sure they accounted for DSM 450 injectors? If all else fails, swap the injectors back - pull the waste gate spring or charge pipe from the IM, and try an OEM map or Virgin ECU.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol, basemap, that explains it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
No codes? Needs tuned.
lol, basemap, that explains it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
No codes? Needs tuned.
ok, so my TPS and MAP arent reversed, my TPS is fine it goes from.3 to 4.65 from closed to open throttle, i advance my dizzy a bit and i can get from point a to point b, and now im getting it tuned next week
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