Remember it has been a lot of discussions about the rear trailing arm bushings. After many people's experience, it pretty much came to a conclusion that majority of the aftermarket rubber RTA bushings would bind EXCEPT for Mugen. So it has been highly recommended by the OG's and racers that when replacing the RTA bushings, you should ONLY use either Mugen or a spherical kit:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=493789

Not many companies make spherical RTA for the EG/EK and DC2. Pro Car Innovations is one of them and they are making the kit for Password JDM:

http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.asp?P_ID=2082



Someone started a thread in the RR/AX forum about this kit and many racers have immediately given positive reviews.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1980347
I would like to give it a try also, and just want to let the ITR forum know about this alternative.

 

Call me a n00b, but what's the advantage of using these bushings?

 

There was an old post on these that was pretty good. I'm trying to find it.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call me a n00b, but what's the advantage of using these bushings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call me a n00b, but what's the advantage of using these bushings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM bushings are rubber and they get worn out over time. It's a good idea to put in fresh new and stiffer ones to regain the handling sharpness. But because of the complicated geometry of the rear trailing arm, many aftermarket stiffer rubber RTA (except Mugen) will bind and affect the movement of the arm....

Spherical bearings will not have the binding problem, but hardly any company makes it.

 

i want to see pictures of the install wai you going to do it

 

Sounds good, I agree with Clitus ( ), when you do the install, would you mind doing a write up on it? I'd like to do them if they're worth it, and easy to install.

 

well Ive been told these types of bushings wear out faster for DD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds good, I agree with Clitus ( ), when you do the install, would you mind doing a write up on it? I'd like to do them if they're worth it, and easy to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for a street car you are better off with oem/mugen...

 

JHP has had those for a few years now, you can shoot them an email for input I know a few of them ran those in their street cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds good, I agree with Clitus ( ), when you do the install, would you mind doing a write up on it? I'd like to do them if they're worth it, and easy to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From the other thread, seems like the installation is rather easy:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So we have an okay for street. Is installation like replacing a bushing? Press out old one and install this? I see it seems to have a different way to secure it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the allen's on the side hold it in. Just put it in then drill the whole out and install the allen with a nut</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94rs-turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well Ive been told these types of bushings wear out faster for DD</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I would agree with this. Just like any higher end suspension with stiff valving and springs, it's more for a track oriented car.

Again from people's experience, they seem to last reasonably long. Andrie Hartanto (WCHC H1) has a set on for the 3rd season and there's no sign of wear yet.

 

For DD purposes, the spherical bearings do wear out faster. There are metal components that create friction together in that part. Even if there is a small amount of lubrication, the tolerances in this part increases. It will then waddle out.

For racing purposes, its a :greenflag:.

 

I recently went with a full Mugen suspension bushing replacement!
Front Camber adjustment will be installed shortly along with a fresh alignment.

We'll see how everything works together for the first time @ VIR in June.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

for a street car you are better off with oem/mugen...</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure why anyone would put what Y is installing (on his RACECAR, you know the kind that gets trailered to and fro) onto a street driven car. (what the heck is wrong with stock and or mugen for the street or a track day car? nothing)

other than its a bright color and people think race parts are for street cars, that is.

 

I looked into these a while ago(the JHP ones) and decided to get the Mugens since my car sees the street. J's Racing also offers spherical TA bushings. Both sets are definitely nice looking . Hope the rear end wiggle that comes with high speed braking is calmed down. Guess I'll find out on the 21st at my first lapping day this year .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope the rear end wiggle that comes with high speed braking is calmed down..</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need either stiffer front springs or slight toe-in in the rear to settle it down. I don't think the TA bushings would help in that case.

 

might have to give these a try

 

nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure why anyone would put what Y is installing (on his RACECAR, you know the kind that gets trailered to and fro) onto a street driven car. (what the heck is wrong with stock and or mugen for the street or a track day car? nothing)

other than its a bright color and people think race parts are for street cars, that is. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hi Clitz!

True that this kit is not for those who need to use the car for daily commute. But it's a great alternative for those whose cars are pretty much track prepped and still see the street occasionally (like my old CW).

I wouldn't worry about the drive to and from the track with this kit on. Just no everyday pothole curb jumping DD.

 

Found it!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1768438&page=1

For hard track driving, I understand the rear bushing do wear out quickly. PCI claims to have had them installed on a daily driven car for a while with no problems. Even so, they sell a replacement brass sleeve kit for cheap.
I'm getting ready to install mine this week. It will be a daily driven car (when it's running). I'll post feedback on wear.

 

IMO, these spherical bearings by "Hardrace" would be hard to beat on any car that sees street duty. They have poly dust boots to keep out dirt, and feature a rubber isolator ring to help damp harsh vibrations. I would love to give them a try. There are several dealers of Hardrace products on ebay, so you could probably get them there...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1231942

Note: As for the adjustable camber & toe arms in that thread, I am not a fan. You definitely don't want different length control arms from one side the other. This will cause one side of the car to behave different than the other...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OEM bushings are rubber and they get worn out over time. It's a good idea to put in fresh new and stiffer ones to regain the handling sharpness. But because of the complicated geometry of the rear trailing arm, many aftermarket stiffer rubber RTA (except Mugen) will bind and affect the movement of the arm....

Spherical bearings will not have the binding problem, but hardly any company makes it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't after-market "rubber" t/a bushings that bind. It's the after-market poly bushings. They don't allow the rolling action that the trailing arm experiences as it goes through it's camber arc. The reason the Mugen ones work so well is because they are still rubber and function the same as OEM (only stiffer).

Also, a little searching will reveal that Honda came out with a updated rear trailing arm bushing (click me) that are basically identical to the Mugen part. As of right now, not one person has been able to tell if the rubber's hardness is any different from the Mugen part that costs 4x as much. The OEM rubber part sells for only $25 each. And if you get the special bushing X-tractor tool, you can install two of them in under an hour (without even removing the trailing arm from the car).

It's also important for readers to realize that OEM rubber bushings can last just as long on a lowered car (even in racing conditions) as they do on a "stock" car. The catch is that they must be "clocked" a certain number of degrees specifically for the new ride height (as detailed here. The problem is that it must be done any time the ride height is altered which makes it more of a PITA for racers that constantly tune their setups. This is where the spherical t/a bearing really has it's advantage over OEM/Mugen rubber...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It isn't after-market "rubber" t/a bushings that bind. It's the after-market poly bushings. They don't allow the rolling action that the trailing arm experiences as it goes through it's camber arc. The reason the Mugen ones work so well is because they are still rubber and function the same as OEM (only stiffer).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the clarification. Poly bushings were what I was referring to.
And you are also right that from what I read, the newer OEM RTA bushings seem to have been revised with a harder material.

 

I plan on getting a set. Anyone wants to tag along and see if we could get better pricing?