Car: 2000 ITR Turbo
Concern: Oil temp/pressure and Water temp

I think I have my water temps under control now after changing my fan setup. The car has not run hot on the street, even in 90 degree stop n go traffic, unlike the end of last summer.

But I have not yet addressed my oil temp/pressure and I do not know if I am going to be able to in time for Expo.

Currently I am using conventional 10w30 oil and Im wondering if I should run something else, maybe a synthetic, with better heat protection (viscosity?)? I have used this conventional oil since the motor was built. Would a higher weight synthetic offer better protection against the heat I expect to see and possibly a little more psi?

I have been researching some recently and all the opinions and "research" or experience causes most answers to run the gamut. Anything from youll be fine with conventional at 300F to run 0w50 synthetic.

 

Ask Chris F. I think I've seen him post about 300 degree temps in his old HU car.

 

yeah Ive already read a lot of what he has said.

 

Amsoil ATM, or series 2000 20w50 would probably work well in your case, but reading up at bob is the oil guy forums would probably provide your best answer.. I forget which are the best high temp oils.

 

I forgot about that site, Ill give it look. Thanks

 

Yup 20W/50 is a beautiful thing.

 

Oil Cooler?

 

If you've been using conventional run castrol GTX

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Currently I am using conventional 10w30 oil and Im wondering if I should run something else, maybe a synthetic, with better heat protection (viscosity?)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Synthetic oil, yes. It offers better protection against breakdown at high temperatures.

As for viscosity, I've seen mixed reports about using a thicker viscosity. Some people say it's better, others say it's worse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oil Cooler?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yeah, a remote oil cooler would definitely suit you.....

 

In reference to the oil cooler...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But I have not yet addressed my oil temp/pressure and I do not know if I am going to be able to in time for Expo.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

As for BITOG, geez that site is like information overload. All sorts of ratings, specs, etc etc, I feel more confused now than before I went there.

If I am not able to install the oil cooler in time, then I want to run an oil that will protect best at high temp. It is also mentioned on BITOG that a higher viscosity or thicker oil can RAISE temps even higher due to friction within the oil. And some 5w-30s are not the same as other 5w-30s, dependent on what rating or spec the oil is for. sheesh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

 

Well you have a temp guage installed, just spend some $$, buy some better oils and do some testing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">........end of last summer.

But I have not yet addressed my oil temp/pressure and I do not know if I am going to be able to in time for Expo. ....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You've know about this problem since last summer, and still haven't picked up an oil cooler?

j00 = slacker!

Just get a NOS kit and have it spray the oil pan every few minutes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You've know about this problem since last summer, and still haven't picked up an oil cooler?

j00 = slacker!

Just get a NOS kit and have it spray the oil pan every few minutes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive taken care of mostly everything except that

 

What temps are you seeing?

 

street temps maybe up to 220F if Im beating on it some. but Im making a lot of power and expect to see temps similar to what Chris F used to see, especially if we get a few hot days for Expo.

if I switch to synthetic for Expo, can I switch back to dino afterwards? I usually just buy the conventional because I change it so often. I think Im gonna save some from my next oil change and have it analyzed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I switch to synthetic for Expo, can I switch back to dino afterwards?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

 

The general consensus among the oil enthusiast crowd is that in a situation such as yours, you should focus primarily on selecting a high-quality synthetic that possesses a relatively high HTHS (high temperature / high shear) value and a viscosity that is close to what the manufacturer recommends. You should also look to limit the overall spread between the cold and hot viscosity ratings. Amsoil's 5W-40 European or 10W-40 High-Performance should both prove to be good choices, though there are certainly a number of others that would work very well also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The general consensus among the oil enthusiast crowd is that in a situation such as yours, you should focus primarily on selecting a high-quality synthetic that possesses a relatively high HTHS (high temperature / high shear) value and a viscosity that is close to what the manufacturer recommends. You should also look to limit the overall spread between the cold and hot viscosity ratings. Amsoil's 5W-40 European or 10W-40 High-Performance should both prove to be good choices, though there are certainly a number of others that would work very well also. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah I saw that HTHS value but had no idea what it meant. Im not sure what you mean but limiting the overall spread between cold and hot viscosity ratings? also note that I am in an area that may be difficult to find some of those more exotic oils you have mentioned.

 

Per IM,
I'm running a OEM gsr oil cooler, a 40mm thick alumn full-width radiator and a 5-qrt Moroso oil pan. The extra qrt helped cut the temps down by at least 10 deg.
Temps now run ~280 on the track and ~220 on the street.
I'm now getting a HPC ceramic coating on the manifold and downpipe, which should help under hood temps and radiant heat going into the radiator and oil pan. May not be a noticable drop in oil/water temps, but any reduction in under hood temps is a positive.

I'm seriously thinking about an external oil cooler. Would add another qrt of oil to my system too. But as long as temps stay below 300, I don't feel pressured to do so.

 

mrlegoman have you ever had your oil analyzed to see how its holding up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The general consensus among the oil enthusiast crowd is that in a situation such as yours, you should focus primarily on selecting a high-quality synthetic that possesses a relatively high HTHS (high temperature / high shear) value and a viscosity that is close to what the manufacturer recommends. You should also look to limit the overall spread between the cold and hot viscosity ratings. Amsoil's 5W-40 European or 10W-40 High-Performance should both prove to be good choices, though there are certainly a number of others that would work very well also. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Amsoil ATM tests better than the euro stuff FWIW... ATM is 10w30 for those that didn't know what ATM was.

 

You mean you dont have money for an oil cooler? Seriously its only $350.00 and a few hours. You are going to let an oil cooler seperate you and Expo?