AUTO TO TRANNY SWAP COMPLETE!!...BUT SPEEDOMETER ISNT WORKING??
hey guys, i need a little bit or help and experience. I just recently got my 99 accord auto converted to a 98 manual tranny with a phantom grip, thats besides the point, but anyway. The work is all done and the tranny shifts fine, goes in reverse fine, and the grip is makeing both wheels move...great!!....but the speedo with not work!...me and my mechanic have gone over the wiring three times and everyhting is perfect regarding checking continuity and wire the wiring should got. We checked the VSS today by taking it out and checking it with another car, and it works....and the tach works so i figured that it is not the VSS. Everything works good just not the speedo...the car is throwing codes, but that is becuase the auto tranny is no longer in there while the stock ecu is reading for it right????....i am stupped...any help would be needed....please let me know, i wanna drive my car bad!!
Modified by leoverte at 8:37 PM 5/10/2007
Modified by leoverte at 8:37 PM 5/10/2007
Try replacing the gauge cluster itself, those speedos go out regularly. And for the record, a) don't type in all caps b) an automatic is a transmission, your title makes no sense
your right bout the title. typed the whole thing very very quick. Why would the cluster go out though if right before the swasp from auto to manual it was working perfectly fine???....i could see if the vss sensor stoped working for no reason before that would. thanks though....any more thoughts????
didn't someone else have this problem recently too? I could have sworn he had to go out and find a 5spd ECU.
i didnt that already, i actually got a prelude obd2 ecu, but my car will not even turn over with that. ME andd the mechanic figured it was becuase the car has a transponder bypass and will only start with the existing ecu since that what the factory honda keys are chipped to....so the other ecu is collecting dust.
yeah but any honda certified dealership should be able to reprogram the transponder/immobilizer in the key to work with the ECU.
OK, for one...you CANNOT use the automatic ECU and run the manual tranny. I had it wired that way and it runs in safe mode. Will not let you rev past 5k even when you're driving.
Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm.
My speedo still doesn't work, but I'm getting it fixed tomorrow. Could be the wiring, could be the VSS....won't know until tomorrow.
Also, I really don't think running the PRELUDE ECU will work to well with the F23 engine and tranny. You need the manual ECU from the 98-02 Accord. And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched.
So once you get the manual ECU for the ACCORD, then try again.
Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm.
My speedo still doesn't work, but I'm getting it fixed tomorrow. Could be the wiring, could be the VSS....won't know until tomorrow.
Also, I really don't think running the PRELUDE ECU will work to well with the F23 engine and tranny. You need the manual ECU from the 98-02 Accord. And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched.
So once you get the manual ECU for the ACCORD, then try again.
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need to get this clear...first you said
"Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm"
then you say...
"And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched."
So can i use a manual ecu(or the prelude ecu)with my original auto keys once i have them coded with the new manual ecu, or do i need a new manual ecu and the keys that got with it?...
and i checked the wiring three times and everything is to spec as in the outline as i found in the forum, and we removed the vss and checked it by using it on another car and it worked fine. Please let me know what you find out bout your car's speedo...
"Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm"
then you say...
"And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched."
So can i use a manual ecu(or the prelude ecu)with my original auto keys once i have them coded with the new manual ecu, or do i need a new manual ecu and the keys that got with it?...
and i checked the wiring three times and everything is to spec as in the outline as i found in the forum, and we removed the vss and checked it by using it on another car and it worked fine. Please let me know what you find out bout your car's speedo...
There is a lot of wiring that needs to be done when doing this conversion. I did it to my 01 accord and it took a couple of hours to wire properly. I took this info from another person, but it worked perfectly for me. I still don't have reverse lights, but that's no big deal.
VSS Wiring.
-Power for VSS-
Unpin wire from D5 (black/yellow) from ECU. Extend wire and connect to pin #2 (black/yellow) on VSS. Reference page 10-6 in ETM.
-Signal Wire for VSS-
Unpin wire A9 (Blue/White) from ECU and ping the wire into C23 (empty on AT harness.) Cut wire and extend to pin #3 on VSS. **This wire also has to be tee/tap into and has to be extended to passenger fuse/relay box. It will need to go into Connector C, cavity #12.** Reference pages 80-1 and 15-10 Circuit E93 in ETM.
-Ground for VSS-
Ground for VSS is the same as pin #3 (Red/White) on A/T gear position switch. Can also use pin #1 on Shift Control Solenoid Valve B & C. Reference page 14-1 in ETM.
Now I know that there are many ways to wire the VSS to work, but the idea behind this wiring is that i used the same wires the 5spd harness would use.. well, that's the principal of it.
The only problem on wiring the VSS would be to part where you have to tee the signal wire to the green connector c harness. Like i stated above, the wire needs to go to pin #12 but that cavity requires a female connector to go in there. Finding the female connector to go into that harness can be a challenge since not all female connectors are all the same. The best thing to do is go to the junk yard, find a honda, then find a Green harness with the female connectors. Hopefully, that connector will be long enough to fit.
-How to turn the car over/make it start-
On "A/T gear position switch" harness (that big plug with 10 cavities which is hooked onto the A/T tranny), just have to connect pin #1 and pin #3. If you cut the harness from the female side (which leaves you no harness left on the A/T gps harness), the color on the pin #1 will be blue/white and pin #3 will be Black (ground). If you left the harness on but snipped the wires leaving the harness on, the colors on pin #1 will be gray and pin #3 will be Red/White.
VSS Wiring.
-Power for VSS-
Unpin wire from D5 (black/yellow) from ECU. Extend wire and connect to pin #2 (black/yellow) on VSS. Reference page 10-6 in ETM.
-Signal Wire for VSS-
Unpin wire A9 (Blue/White) from ECU and ping the wire into C23 (empty on AT harness.) Cut wire and extend to pin #3 on VSS. **This wire also has to be tee/tap into and has to be extended to passenger fuse/relay box. It will need to go into Connector C, cavity #12.** Reference pages 80-1 and 15-10 Circuit E93 in ETM.
-Ground for VSS-
Ground for VSS is the same as pin #3 (Red/White) on A/T gear position switch. Can also use pin #1 on Shift Control Solenoid Valve B & C. Reference page 14-1 in ETM.
Now I know that there are many ways to wire the VSS to work, but the idea behind this wiring is that i used the same wires the 5spd harness would use.. well, that's the principal of it.
The only problem on wiring the VSS would be to part where you have to tee the signal wire to the green connector c harness. Like i stated above, the wire needs to go to pin #12 but that cavity requires a female connector to go in there. Finding the female connector to go into that harness can be a challenge since not all female connectors are all the same. The best thing to do is go to the junk yard, find a honda, then find a Green harness with the female connectors. Hopefully, that connector will be long enough to fit.
-How to turn the car over/make it start-
On "A/T gear position switch" harness (that big plug with 10 cavities which is hooked onto the A/T tranny), just have to connect pin #1 and pin #3. If you cut the harness from the female side (which leaves you no harness left on the A/T gps harness), the color on the pin #1 will be blue/white and pin #3 will be Black (ground). If you left the harness on but snipped the wires leaving the harness on, the colors on pin #1 will be gray and pin #3 will be Red/White.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leoverte »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need to get this clear...first you said
"Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm"
then you say...
"And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched."
So can i use a manual ecu(or the prelude ecu)with my original auto keys once i have them coded with the new manual ecu, or do i need a new manual ecu and the keys that got with it?...
and i checked the wiring three times and everything is to spec as in the outline as i found in the forum, and we removed the vss and checked it by using it on another car and it worked fine. Please let me know what you find out bout your car's speedo...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, hopefully this will make things a bit more clear. The OBD2 vehicles **yours is OBD2** have an immobilizer built into the steering column. When you change out your ECU, you will have to get the keys reprogrammed to that ECU. The immobilizer is what reads the key code and sends it to the ECU. If the keycodes don't match then it immobilizer prevents the car from starting.
SO, in other words, when you put in the MANUAL ECU, it's not going to do ****...just like you said. Drag it down to Honda and have them reprogram the keys...it cost me roughly $90 including tax. Once they reprogram YOUR keys to the NEW MANUAL ECU, your car will start.
Again, I really don't think the Prelude ECU will work for your car. Your car has an F23 engine in it...there is a big difference between an H22 and F23. Your fuel mapping, rev limit, etc. will be way off. You WILL have problems, even if you get them down to a few small ones. And just to make it clear once again, get a MANUAL ECU FROM AN ACCORD.
Another problem that you're going to encounter is that the AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION has TWO speed sensors. The MANUAL TRANSMISSION only has ONE speed sensor. Using the AUTOMATIC ECU and wiring it to act like a MANUAL, will still throw some problems. You won't run efficiently at all.
So as I said and will keep saying - get the MANUAL ECU, and MANUAL HARNESS and you will be fine. Otherwise, you will run into an assload of problems.
"Your car is a 99...meaning it has the immobilizer. When you get your MANUAL ECU, you need to go to Honda and have all of your keys coded to that ECU. I did that and my car runs like a goddamn charm"
then you say...
"And the fact that it's OBD2 means you need the keys coded to the ECU. The immobilizer doesn't need to be touched."
So can i use a manual ecu(or the prelude ecu)with my original auto keys once i have them coded with the new manual ecu, or do i need a new manual ecu and the keys that got with it?...
and i checked the wiring three times and everything is to spec as in the outline as i found in the forum, and we removed the vss and checked it by using it on another car and it worked fine. Please let me know what you find out bout your car's speedo...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, hopefully this will make things a bit more clear. The OBD2 vehicles **yours is OBD2** have an immobilizer built into the steering column. When you change out your ECU, you will have to get the keys reprogrammed to that ECU. The immobilizer is what reads the key code and sends it to the ECU. If the keycodes don't match then it immobilizer prevents the car from starting.
SO, in other words, when you put in the MANUAL ECU, it's not going to do ****...just like you said. Drag it down to Honda and have them reprogram the keys...it cost me roughly $90 including tax. Once they reprogram YOUR keys to the NEW MANUAL ECU, your car will start.
Again, I really don't think the Prelude ECU will work for your car. Your car has an F23 engine in it...there is a big difference between an H22 and F23. Your fuel mapping, rev limit, etc. will be way off. You WILL have problems, even if you get them down to a few small ones. And just to make it clear once again, get a MANUAL ECU FROM AN ACCORD.
Another problem that you're going to encounter is that the AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION has TWO speed sensors. The MANUAL TRANSMISSION only has ONE speed sensor. Using the AUTOMATIC ECU and wiring it to act like a MANUAL, will still throw some problems. You won't run efficiently at all.
So as I said and will keep saying - get the MANUAL ECU, and MANUAL HARNESS and you will be fine. Otherwise, you will run into an assload of problems.
i am pretty sure that i followed this already becuase i used the offical thread from turbowa for the swap guide lines, but i am printing this out as i type to check my wiring again tomorrow morning. thanks man....i will let you know what happens...
yo savage, i used the manual harness plugs and placed them onto the auto harness, basically making a manual harness out of it...that is what is on the car now. with the stock ecu, tommorrow morning i iwll test the 5th rev mark and test dive the car harder, passed 3t thousand...i used the thread by turbowa title the offical swap thread...and my reverse lights are working fine...
What you might want to do is look at an actual wiring diagram of the plugs and make sure every wire is connected where it's supposed to be. Otherwise it won't function right. And even though you have it wired right, you will not have VTEC since it's the automatic ECU. Also, you will hit the rev limiter at 5k because it is thinking you are in neutral.
well i just got done checking it and your right, it will not rev pasted 5g. The ecu that i thought was for a prelude that i have, well turns out that it is actually for a accord. I called philly dyno works this morning and talked to them about it. the ecu has the PAA and the rep there told me that it means it is for an accord. So monday or tuesday i will get my original keys coded to the ecu and then go from there trying to figure out anything that might still have a bug, like the speedo. I am hoping that since i am running the harness (auto tranny harness) with all the manual plugs needed connected to it, that with this other ecu that the speedo prob might clear up,or at least rev clearing 5grand. I also tried the a manual speed cluster just to check if mine was broken, but it was fine.
When I swapped my car, I used a new engine harness, had to rewire the chassis harness (mine runs on the driver side near where the clutch will be) and you only really need 3 connectors as opposed to the 0198234 the auto had. I also used a 5spd ECU. My speedo is off by about 24% but it works. We also had to jump the harness to get the key out of the car because it was stuck in the ignition (the immobilizer), and we couldn't drive it down to the dealership to get it reprogrammed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leoverte »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i just got done checking it and your right, it will not rev pasted 5g. The ecu that i thought was for a prelude that i have, well turns out that it is actually for a accord. I called philly dyno works this morning and talked to them about it. the ecu has the PAA and the rep there told me that it means it is for an accord. So monday or tuesday i will get my original keys coded to the ecu and then go from there trying to figure out anything that might still have a bug, like the speedo. I am hoping that since i am running the harness (auto tranny harness) with all the manual plugs needed connected to it, that with this other ecu that the speedo prob might clear up,or at least rev clearing 5grand. I also tried the a manual speed cluster just to check if mine was broken, but it was fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I just got my speedo working today. I'm not sure what was up with it, but they had it in the back for about 10 minutes and it was done. Works like a charm.
Like I said, the automatic transmission actually has two speed sensors, and the manual has one. That is one of your problems when you try to wire it up that way, because the automatic and manual read the speed sensors totally different.
Also, you should really consider getting a manual harness - it will eliminate 99% of your problems because you won't have to basically hardwire everything in.
So what you have to do is drive your car to Honda, plug up the manual ECU and then have them code ALL of your keys. After that, enjoy shifting at 6.5k and enjoy that VTEC.
I just got my speedo working today. I'm not sure what was up with it, but they had it in the back for about 10 minutes and it was done. Works like a charm.
Like I said, the automatic transmission actually has two speed sensors, and the manual has one. That is one of your problems when you try to wire it up that way, because the automatic and manual read the speed sensors totally different.
Also, you should really consider getting a manual harness - it will eliminate 99% of your problems because you won't have to basically hardwire everything in.
So what you have to do is drive your car to Honda, plug up the manual ECU and then have them code ALL of your keys. After that, enjoy shifting at 6.5k and enjoy that VTEC.
me and my boy purchased a manual harness and basically used the plugs off of that and converted the auto harness as the thread by turbowa states.
do you know what the shop did to get your speedo working??? or can you find out???
do you know what the shop did to get your speedo working??? or can you find out???
Hey man, try not to PM me the same thing that you post in the thread...I'll read it on here and get back to you.
But I responded to your PM about the manual harness you did.
Also, I can find out what they did....it was most likely a wiring issue though. One other thing I had a problem with was the temp gauge not working, but I had that fixed right away...it had to be hardwired up to the gauge cluster.
But I responded to your PM about the manual harness you did.
Also, I can find out what they did....it was most likely a wiring issue though. One other thing I had a problem with was the temp gauge not working, but I had that fixed right away...it had to be hardwired up to the gauge cluster.
ok, so i got the car back from the dealer just now from the new ecu being coded with the keys. The car do rev past 5 grand now, basically around 6,500. But i didnt feel any vtec the car just pulled till bout 4 and then just flat lined across the rest of the rev range. I am going to check for low oil levels and also to make sure that i have all the correct plugs attached all the way. The check engine light is still on so i an also going to check that out with the scanner. Lastly i need to try again to connect the speedo and see if it works now.


