Type S camshafts and nitrous?
Is it safe to run type s cams in my h22 which already has a zex dry kit installed?
I love the bottle at the track,but would like to get these camshafts for dd,will they flow together at the track?Thanks
I love the bottle at the track,but would like to get these camshafts for dd,will they flow together at the track?Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With proper installation of the type-s cams the short answer is yes. With nice gains also
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Be careful with those TypeS Cams and Non TypeS valvetrain.......Do a search on that one! You may rethink it.
I believe it has been said to use the springs/retainers as well........
</TD></TR></TABLE>Be careful with those TypeS Cams and Non TypeS valvetrain.......Do a search on that one! You may rethink it.
I believe it has been said to use the springs/retainers as well........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah Im ordering springs and retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
TypeS or EuroR??? If youre doing an aftermarket valvetrain with TypeS cams I would say youd be better off doing some Skunk Cams with Stock Valvetrain......
I just don't know if the TypeS is worth the trouble......
Skunk2 Stage1's gave me 12-14 across the board with stock valvetrain.....
TypeS or EuroR??? If youre doing an aftermarket valvetrain with TypeS cams I would say youd be better off doing some Skunk Cams with Stock Valvetrain......
I just don't know if the TypeS is worth the trouble......
Skunk2 Stage1's gave me 12-14 across the board with stock valvetrain.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive heard its fine from acouple different people.....im just planning ahead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may want to find a few people that had ground up cams and metal shavings in their head before you do this for a few hp. I haven't gone deep enough into it.
There are things that can be done to prevent this.....
You may want to find a few people that had ground up cams and metal shavings in their head before you do this for a few hp. I haven't gone deep enough into it.
There are things that can be done to prevent this.....
Trending Topics
you're in luck, i did the searching for you a long time ago and saved the links
if you love your rockers you will read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443979
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081953
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=875356
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=786808
that's everything in my Type S folder
if you love your rockers you will read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443979
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081953
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=875356
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=786808
that's everything in my Type S folder
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver Surfer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're in luck, i did the searching for you a long time ago and saved the links
if you love your rockers you will read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443979
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081953
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=875356
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=786808
that's everything in my Type S folder
</TD></TR></TABLE>
FTW!!!
Hey the WHOLE ROCKER ASSEMBLY from Honda is cheap though.....its only twice the price of Skunk Cams!
I have yet to see a Before and after Dyno with TypeS Cams being the only change.
Considering the TypeS/EuroR only makes ~15whp more than a Regular H22, I don't think there is a realistic gain to be had from them.
11:1 VS 10:1
Different Cams
Different IM
Different Head finishing
Different Intake
And more......
Convert that Dry to Wet also.......I think money is better spent doing that 1st. I would also Ditch the BARNEY box and get some NX or NOS Cheater Noids.
if you love your rockers you will read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443979
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081953
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=875356
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=786808
that's everything in my Type S folder
</TD></TR></TABLE>FTW!!!
Hey the WHOLE ROCKER ASSEMBLY from Honda is cheap though.....its only twice the price of Skunk Cams!I have yet to see a Before and after Dyno with TypeS Cams being the only change.
Considering the TypeS/EuroR only makes ~15whp more than a Regular H22, I don't think there is a realistic gain to be had from them.
11:1 VS 10:1
Different Cams
Different IM
Different Head finishing
Different Intake
And more......
Convert that Dry to Wet also.......I think money is better spent doing that 1st. I would also Ditch the BARNEY box and get some NX or NOS Cheater Noids.
Whats wrong with the zex kit being dry,its only a 55shot,and I dont plan on going higher.I have been running it with now problems for a while now.
And what advantages will I get from dropping the nitrous management unit and replacing it with a cheater noid?I thought it was safer because it runs off of bottle pressure?
And what advantages will I get from dropping the nitrous management unit and replacing it with a cheater noid?I thought it was safer because it runs off of bottle pressure?
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Posts: n/a
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive heard its fine from acouple different people.....im just planning ahead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems.
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems.
Thanks,but thats the thing,everybodys got a different opinion on this topic,I guess Ill go talk w a friend of mine who buids honda motors for a living and talk to him about it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Of course there are people that don't have problems, but there are people that do have problems. Its a 50/50 thing and I don't like mods like that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks,but thats the thing,everybodys got a different opinion on this topic,I guess Ill go talk w a friend of mine who buids honda motors for a living and talk to him about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They really aren't opinions....they are facts if you ask around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats wrong with the zex kit being dry,its only a 55shot,and I dont plan on going higher.I have been running it with now problems for a while now.
And what advantages will I get from dropping the nitrous management unit and replacing it with a cheater noid?I thought it was safer because it runs off of bottle pressure?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It isn't really a management unit. It just has the solenoids inside making rebuilds and changes a little more difficult. Wet is always safer than Dry.....besides, it runs more efficient making more power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks,but thats the thing,everybodys got a different opinion on this topic,I guess Ill go talk w a friend of mine who buids honda motors for a living and talk to him about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem with people that build Honda motors for a Living is that they will usually assume that the H's are just Big B's. Doing your own research 1st and then having a shop do it is the right way. Rather than just letting them do it all. Obviously doing it yourself efficiently and right is ideal.........
My advice is just to spend time reading through old posts to see what has/hasn't worked for people over the years to save yourself some time, energy, effort.
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Of course there are people that don't have problems, but there are people that do have problems. Its a 50/50 thing and I don't like mods like that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks,but thats the thing,everybodys got a different opinion on this topic,I guess Ill go talk w a friend of mine who buids honda motors for a living and talk to him about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They really aren't opinions....they are facts if you ask around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats wrong with the zex kit being dry,its only a 55shot,and I dont plan on going higher.I have been running it with now problems for a while now.
And what advantages will I get from dropping the nitrous management unit and replacing it with a cheater noid?I thought it was safer because it runs off of bottle pressure?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It isn't really a management unit. It just has the solenoids inside making rebuilds and changes a little more difficult. Wet is always safer than Dry.....besides, it runs more efficient making more power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks,but thats the thing,everybodys got a different opinion on this topic,I guess Ill go talk w a friend of mine who buids honda motors for a living and talk to him about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem with people that build Honda motors for a Living is that they will usually assume that the H's are just Big B's. Doing your own research 1st and then having a shop do it is the right way. Rather than just letting them do it all. Obviously doing it yourself efficiently and right is ideal.........
My advice is just to spend time reading through old posts to see what has/hasn't worked for people over the years to save yourself some time, energy, effort.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Be careful with those TypeS Cams and Non TypeS valvetrain.......Do a search on that one! You may rethink it.
I believe it has been said to use the springs/retainers as well........</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I said with proper installation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It isn't really a management unit. It just has the solenoids inside making rebuilds and changes a little more difficult. Wet is always safer than Dry.....besides, it runs more efficient making more power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dry kit can be just as effective and safe as a wet kit. I ran a dry zex kit on my lude years ago with no problems went into the 12's on drags with zex dry kit and a street tuned afc(not saying its the best way but for me it worked).
IMO with the right precautions IE injectors have enough fuel to meet the demand of extra fuel need and the pump can keep up also. With the right tune the car will run good and be strong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The problem with people that build Honda motors for a Living is that they will usually assume that the H's are just Big B's. Doing your own research 1st and then having a shop do it is the right way. Rather than just letting them do it all. Obviously doing it yourself efficiently and right is ideal.........
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true motors are similar but not the same
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So what your still a ricer
Be careful with those TypeS Cams and Non TypeS valvetrain.......Do a search on that one! You may rethink it.
I believe it has been said to use the springs/retainers as well........</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I said with proper installation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It isn't really a management unit. It just has the solenoids inside making rebuilds and changes a little more difficult. Wet is always safer than Dry.....besides, it runs more efficient making more power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dry kit can be just as effective and safe as a wet kit. I ran a dry zex kit on my lude years ago with no problems went into the 12's on drags with zex dry kit and a street tuned afc(not saying its the best way but for me it worked).
IMO with the right precautions IE injectors have enough fuel to meet the demand of extra fuel need and the pump can keep up also. With the right tune the car will run good and be strong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The problem with people that build Honda motors for a Living is that they will usually assume that the H's are just Big B's. Doing your own research 1st and then having a shop do it is the right way. Rather than just letting them do it all. Obviously doing it yourself efficiently and right is ideal.........
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true motors are similar but not the same
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im not speaking for every body but i had type s cams in my jdmh22 with nos. i had the cams for a couple of years with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So what your still a ricer
I was just wondering about the cams and nitrous,I dont give a **** who any of u ,think are ricers and who is not.
This is a tech forum for honda preludes,its not highschool, and I dont give a f u c k about any of your bullshit flaming of newbies or people who make grammatical errors.Please do us all a favor and if you do not have any productive comments about the thread/threads, just stick to myspace.Thats where highschool bitches belong.
Also thanks to those who had something productive to contribute to this thread.
Modified by 93sivtec at 7:04 PM 5/13/2007
This is a tech forum for honda preludes,its not highschool, and I dont give a f u c k about any of your bullshit flaming of newbies or people who make grammatical errors.Please do us all a favor and if you do not have any productive comments about the thread/threads, just stick to myspace.Thats where highschool bitches belong.
Also thanks to those who had something productive to contribute to this thread.
Modified by 93sivtec at 7:04 PM 5/13/2007
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Posts: n/a
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering about the cams and nitrous,I dont give a **** who any of u do,or dont think about any1 else as a ricer or what not.
This is a tech forum for honda preludes,its not highschool, and I dont give a f u c k about any of your bullshit flaming of newbies or people who make grammatical errors.Please do us all a favor and if you do not have any productive comments about the thread/threads, just stick to myspace.Thats where highschool bitches belong.
Also thanks to those who had something productive to contribute to this thread.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a tech forum for honda preludes,its not highschool, and I dont give a f u c k about any of your bullshit flaming of newbies or people who make grammatical errors.Please do us all a favor and if you do not have any productive comments about the thread/threads, just stick to myspace.Thats where highschool bitches belong.
Also thanks to those who had something productive to contribute to this thread.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why I said with proper installation
A dry kit can be just as effective and safe as a wet kit. I ran a dry zex kit on my lude years ago with no problems went into the 12's on drags with zex dry kit and a street tuned afc(not saying its the best way but for me it worked).
IMO with the right precautions IE injectors have enough fuel to meet the demand of extra fuel need and the pump can keep up also. With the right tune the car will run good and be strong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
But youre a freak of nature man!!!
That's why I said with proper installation
A dry kit can be just as effective and safe as a wet kit. I ran a dry zex kit on my lude years ago with no problems went into the 12's on drags with zex dry kit and a street tuned afc(not saying its the best way but for me it worked).
IMO with the right precautions IE injectors have enough fuel to meet the demand of extra fuel need and the pump can keep up also. With the right tune the car will run good and be strong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
But youre a freak of nature man!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering about the cams and nitrous,I dont give a **** who any of u ,think are ricers and who is not....
Modified by 93sivtec at 7:04 PM 5/13/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cams are a very touchy subject with nitrous IMO they can make or break a N20 setup. I have seen this first hand. But a cam with a good mid range will be your best bet peak HP IMO doesn't mean anything.
If you have a N20 car that makes 290 whp @ 7100 and power is really peaky and then falls off like a brick. And have another N20 car that makes 270 whp from say 5100 and hold till around 7000 and gradually to slightly drops off after peak power. I guarantee alot of people on this board would say I would bet money on the 290 whp over that 270 whp any days of the week. But when it came time to hit the track with the same driver the results would have alot of people scratching there heads.
Just something to think about. I guess I am just a big fan of less is more. I know aint isn't a word so kiss my *** grammar police
. But if it aint broke don't fix but you CAN however improve it
. Ok end of useless babble take it how you will.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But youre a freak of nature man!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Defiantly not a freak of nature. I just like to try/do things that aren't supposed to be done or people say its not possible or wont work. Kinda like putting a street prelude in the 10's. Want sane person would attempt such a thing?!
Modified by 93sivtec at 7:04 PM 5/13/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cams are a very touchy subject with nitrous IMO they can make or break a N20 setup. I have seen this first hand. But a cam with a good mid range will be your best bet peak HP IMO doesn't mean anything.
If you have a N20 car that makes 290 whp @ 7100 and power is really peaky and then falls off like a brick. And have another N20 car that makes 270 whp from say 5100 and hold till around 7000 and gradually to slightly drops off after peak power. I guarantee alot of people on this board would say I would bet money on the 290 whp over that 270 whp any days of the week. But when it came time to hit the track with the same driver the results would have alot of people scratching there heads.
Just something to think about. I guess I am just a big fan of less is more. I know aint isn't a word so kiss my *** grammar police
. But if it aint broke don't fix but you CAN however improve it
. Ok end of useless babble take it how you will.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::-::NirVTEC::-:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But youre a freak of nature man!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Defiantly not a freak of nature. I just like to try/do things that aren't supposed to be done or people say its not possible or wont work. Kinda like putting a street prelude in the 10's. Want sane person would attempt such a thing?!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cams are a very touchy subject with nitrous IMO they can make or break a N20 setup. I have seen this first hand. But a cam with a good mid range will be your best bet peak HP IMO doesn't mean anything.
If you have a N20 car that makes 290 whp @ 7100 and power is really peaky and then falls off like a brick. And have another N20 car that makes 270 whp from say 5100 and hold till around 7000 and gradually to slightly drops off after peak power. I guarantee alot of people on this board would say I would bet money on the 290 whp over that 270 whp any days of the week. But when it came time to hit the track with the same driver the results would have alot of people scratching there heads.
Just something to think about. I guess I am just a big fan of less is more. I know aint isn't a word so kiss my *** grammar police
. But if it aint broke don't fix but you CAN however improve it
. Ok end of useless babble take it how you will.
Defiantly not a freak of nature. I just like to try/do things that aren't supposed to be done or people say its not possible or wont work. Kinda like putting a street prelude in the 10's. Want sane person would attempt such a thing?!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It seems like people are just starting to understand powerbands instead of being PEAK POWER ******! Dyno Queens FTL!
Cams are a very touchy subject with nitrous IMO they can make or break a N20 setup. I have seen this first hand. But a cam with a good mid range will be your best bet peak HP IMO doesn't mean anything.
If you have a N20 car that makes 290 whp @ 7100 and power is really peaky and then falls off like a brick. And have another N20 car that makes 270 whp from say 5100 and hold till around 7000 and gradually to slightly drops off after peak power. I guarantee alot of people on this board would say I would bet money on the 290 whp over that 270 whp any days of the week. But when it came time to hit the track with the same driver the results would have alot of people scratching there heads.
Just something to think about. I guess I am just a big fan of less is more. I know aint isn't a word so kiss my *** grammar police
. But if it aint broke don't fix but you CAN however improve it
. Ok end of useless babble take it how you will.Defiantly not a freak of nature. I just like to try/do things that aren't supposed to be done or people say its not possible or wont work. Kinda like putting a street prelude in the 10's. Want sane person would attempt such a thing?!
</TD></TR></TABLE>It seems like people are just starting to understand powerbands instead of being PEAK POWER ******! Dyno Queens FTL!


