Like the title says I have a huge pedal travel.

Here is what I have done until now.

First, my car always had a certain pedal travel that around 1inch to 1 ˝ inch travel before having the brakes kick in. Sometimes I could pump it once then brake and the pedal was higher the second and also they tended to drag alot.
What in theory I tought it might be: -needs adjustment in the back(drums)
-needs new brake fluid
-calipers pin bolt are not greased enough(that’s for the draging part)
-brakes retract too much.

My first time I really got to work on my car. I found out that my pin bolts werent greased at all and there was some surface rust. Cleaned them up and put them back on. No more dragging.

Then I was at my lapping club. (I am still a newb) well after a couple of laps that are getting faster each time…my brakes started to fade..
What in theory I tought it might be: -Lousy stock pad(metalic) needs ceramic pads.
-Brakes need bleeding

So today I finaly took sometime to fix those problems.
-I first bleed my brakes using a spanking new power bleeder that you don’t need to add brake liquide while bleeding(works great!). The brakes seemed a little better. Still quite a lot of travel.

-After 2 turns I decided to change the pads.. ceramic pads..don’t know if they are good…well I do know my dad in his civic si hb 91, he stops on a dime, well me the brake pedal traveled much more then before.

Error I did: I forgot the cap of the brake fluid open when I pushed back the caliper cylinder on one side.

I didn’t have any brake fluid left. So at 7 pm I left to get more. Second error: I only got one litre. So I only keeped adding. Now there are 3 types of fluid in the brake system.

I then took all the tires out. Jacked the car and bleeded the crap out of all of the tire…FOR NOTHing… I have the worst travel I ever had. I stayed until 11 trying to fix all.. but atleast the car still stops..at like 1inch of the end of the pedal travel.

I just hope the master cylinder isnt the problem. What do you guys think I should do next. Please don’t say to bring it to a garage. Because like most of you I like to do the work my self because it much more gratafiing(spelling?).
I think I should just flush all the fluid before continuing.? Should I use water with all the bleeding screws open? Or just wait till everything flows out by it self.?

I hope you guys can help me… thx.

 

bleed your brakes properly. dont EVER let it drain all the way in your master cylinder and introduce air in the system again.

what "power bleeder" are you using? im dubious. use the 2 man method, and do it right.


wtf are you thinking water? NO WATER. brake fluid only.

 

Is it possible that my brake fluid is bad? Since i mix maybe 3 types of fluides over the year. And its creating bubles.

Last time i check there was little solid particles in my liquide in the master cylinder.

http://forums.montrealracing.c...46726 to see a picture of the power bleeder.

 

Last time i check there was little solid particles in my liquide in the master cylinder.

I would be concerned about what exactly the solid particles in the master cylinder are. Do they look like rubber? It could be a blown seal.
I do not think that mixing types of brake fluid should matter as long as it is all the same spec. I would try bleeding the brakes again in the pattern right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Bleed them until you have clean fluid throughout the system. Do not use water or solvents to flush out your lines. If they are gunked up, replace them.

If you allowed the brake fluid in the master cylinder to get below the level of the min line, you may have to bench bleed the master cylinder. Also check to see if your brake booster is rusted out or if there is fluid leaking between the master cylinder and booster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HF2ZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would be concerned about what exactly the solid particles in the master cylinder are. Do they look like rubber? It could be a blown seal.
I do not think that mixing types of brake fluid should matter as long as it is all the same spec. I would try bleeding the brakes again in the pattern right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Bleed them until you have clean fluid throughout the system. Do not use water or solvents to flush out your lines. If they are gunked up, replace them.

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yeah its black color...damn if its seal..then a new master cylinder is needed?

 

Bleed them, then test drive, then bleed them again. Adjust the drums to where they are slightly dragging like the fronts do.

One clear sign that you need to adjust your drums is that your ebrake lever doesnt engage early like 2-3 clicks and fully locks at 5-6.

If you have new pads in, then bed them in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94 Supra TT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bleed them, then test drive, then bleed them again. Adjust the drums to where they are slightly dragging like the fronts do.

One clear sign that you need to adjust your drums is that your ebrake lever doesnt engage early like 2-3 clicks and fully locks at 5-6.

If you have new pads in, then bed them in.


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I have done all that. but i cant understand why there so much travel.