JDM hood installation issue
Guys and gals,
I am trying my best to get this damn hood installed. I have failed miserably. If any has installed one and is in the 626 hit me up please. I need a friendly hand to get this damn hood on straight.
Thanks.
I am trying my best to get this damn hood installed. I have failed miserably. If any has installed one and is in the 626 hit me up please. I need a friendly hand to get this damn hood on straight.
Thanks.
If ur talking about a SIR hood, you need a SIR bumper and I think fenders for it all to work. Some companies do sell SIR style hoods intended to work with USDM front ends. If you have the SIR bumper and fenders, ignore me then :D
Janos
Janos
Aside from the hole for the sidemarker fenders are all the same... you need jdm headlights, front bumper, and the right t-bar though. Assuming you have the components for a JDM front, you probably have the wrong t-bar or you're using the usdm bar. It is possible to get the usdm t-bar to work, kinda, but the acctual SiR t-bar dosen't work, you need the t-bar from an "SiR front" non SiR.
hmm i will try that, I think i figured it out though. You need to take the hood latch off the hood and elongate the holes on the hatch and not the hood!!! I will report if i am able to get this completed.
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That'll work but FYI if you get the right T-Bar it'll bolt up and latch like stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just move the "T"bar on the car forward and keep the latch on your hood in place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Also you should mention thats an SiR T-Bar (he still hasn't said which one he's using)
Modified by Bob_760 at 3:08 PM 5/8/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just move the "T"bar on the car forward and keep the latch on your hood in place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Also you should mention thats an SiR T-Bar (he still hasn't said which one he's using)
Modified by Bob_760 at 3:08 PM 5/8/2007
you can mod it, its not hard.
look at this image and read this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...28699
look at this image and read this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...28699
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex_89 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for help....</TD></TR></TABLE>
also follow whats written in this how to:
http://faq.ef-honda.com/index....ng=en
also follow whats written in this how to:
http://faq.ef-honda.com/index....ng=en
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef9robert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the washers are under the t-bar and the mounting holes? Could you give me a shot of the washers only?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Left of the picture, above the headlight...notice 2 white plastic washers on the Tbar mounting screws.
Left of the picture, above the headlight...notice 2 white plastic washers on the Tbar mounting screws.
If you have the right T bar all you gotta do loosen all size 10 screws that holds it in place and pull it pull it as far as it goes and the latch has to be moved as forward as possible also......bolt both of them down.....then you play with the part that goes in the hole....i had to bend it back just a little ....but my hood closes flush.......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jerms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">expletive washers that looks like ****
thumbs up for the right t bar or u can redill the holes and mount it on</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those were the right T bar that I used (came with the jdm clip)...and those expletive washers that looked like ****?? Did the job! $2 fix without redrilling holes.
thumbs up for the right t bar or u can redill the holes and mount it on</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those were the right T bar that I used (came with the jdm clip)...and those expletive washers that looked like ****?? Did the job! $2 fix without redrilling holes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soodominican »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wuts a t bar?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is no hope for you
</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is no hope for you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Those were the right T bar that I used (came with the jdm clip)...and those expletive washers that looked like ****?? Did the job! $2 fix without redrilling holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense but to keep the facts in this thread straight thats not the right T-bar... If you had the right one you wouldn't need washers and it wouldnt have the SiR's air snorkel hole. Apparently with those huge washers in there its far enough farward to work though, so it is another option.
Those were the right T bar that I used (came with the jdm clip)...and those expletive washers that looked like ****?? Did the job! $2 fix without redrilling holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense but to keep the facts in this thread straight thats not the right T-bar... If you had the right one you wouldn't need washers and it wouldnt have the SiR's air snorkel hole. Apparently with those huge washers in there its far enough farward to work though, so it is another option.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob_760 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No offense but to keep the facts in this thread straight thats not the right T-bar... If you had the right one you wouldn't need washers and it wouldnt have the SiR's air snorkel hole. Apparently with those huge washers in there its far enough farward to work though, so it is another option.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can that not be the right T bar when like you said, it has the SiR air snorkel hole? Why do I even bother sometimes... So what you're saying is that the JDM EF9 front end is a direct swap to a USDM car, because the right T bar wouldn't require the use of washers to move the latch forward??
btw, no offense taken...
Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:34 PM 5/12/2007
No offense but to keep the facts in this thread straight thats not the right T-bar... If you had the right one you wouldn't need washers and it wouldnt have the SiR's air snorkel hole. Apparently with those huge washers in there its far enough farward to work though, so it is another option.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can that not be the right T bar when like you said, it has the SiR air snorkel hole? Why do I even bother sometimes... So what you're saying is that the JDM EF9 front end is a direct swap to a USDM car, because the right T bar wouldn't require the use of washers to move the latch forward??
btw, no offense taken...
Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:34 PM 5/12/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How can that not be the right T bar when like you said, it has the SiR air snorkel hole? Why do I even bother sometimes... So what you're saying is that the JDM EF9 front end is a direct swap to a USDM car, because the right T bar wouldn't require the use of washers to move the latch forward??
btw, no offense taken...
Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:34 PM 5/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I was pretty vague. The SiR chassis is longer than the regular chassis which is why you needed washers to place the t-bar in the same place it'd be on an SiR relative to the hood. The t-bar needed is from an Si with the SiR front end, they had them they way from the factory in Japan. With said t-bar it bolts in just like the stock t-bar (no washers, no notching holes, no nothing) and the hood shuts and latches perfectly.
It's all in there also... vv
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaakro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1700836
for the correct T-bar</TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres probably nothing wrong with your setup since the t-bar is pretty much where it should be but theres an easier/cleaner way.
How can that not be the right T bar when like you said, it has the SiR air snorkel hole? Why do I even bother sometimes... So what you're saying is that the JDM EF9 front end is a direct swap to a USDM car, because the right T bar wouldn't require the use of washers to move the latch forward??
btw, no offense taken...
Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:34 PM 5/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I was pretty vague. The SiR chassis is longer than the regular chassis which is why you needed washers to place the t-bar in the same place it'd be on an SiR relative to the hood. The t-bar needed is from an Si with the SiR front end, they had them they way from the factory in Japan. With said t-bar it bolts in just like the stock t-bar (no washers, no notching holes, no nothing) and the hood shuts and latches perfectly.
It's all in there also... vv
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaakro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1700836
for the correct T-bar</TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres probably nothing wrong with your setup since the t-bar is pretty much where it should be but theres an easier/cleaner way.



