what do lower tie bars do?
i would go for either the usdm or jdm ITR, i paid 160 for the sway bar, enlinks, bushings, brackets, and beaks reinforcment kits...if you have patience just keep a look out here in the market place.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Championship- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your money and buy a ITR swaybar
lower tie bars dont do shiat </TD></TR></TABLE>
lower tie bars dont do shiat </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Championship- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your money and buy a ITR swaybar
lower tie bars dont do shiat </TD></TR></TABLE>
They don't? Because I noticed a difference in the autox and on the street when I put mine on
lower tie bars dont do shiat </TD></TR></TABLE>
They don't? Because I noticed a difference in the autox and on the street when I put mine on
i would greatly agree the usdm and itr swaybar is the best "bang for the buck"
!....i didnt believe till i mounted mine on my 4dr.......huge difference!!!!..
but yea, sure is no direct bolt-on!!...i hated removing the gay tack welds
!....i didnt believe till i mounted mine on my 4dr.......huge difference!!!!..but yea, sure is no direct bolt-on!!...i hated removing the gay tack welds
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Championship- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah good luck man, just search for instructions, they told me it was a direct bolt-on..........yeah f*ckin right
but it's worth it though
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had no problem at all, the tack welded nuts were a little hard to get out, but not that bad.
Took me a few hours.
it made a HUGE difference.
I got the JDM type r 23 mm instead of the usdm 22 mm.
but it's worth it though
</TD></TR></TABLE>I had no problem at all, the tack welded nuts were a little hard to get out, but not that bad.
Took me a few hours.
it made a HUGE difference.
I got the JDM type r 23 mm instead of the usdm 22 mm.
{QUOTE=-Championship-]save your money and buy a ITR swaybar[/QUOTE]
Also, I hear that some lower front lower tie bars can be dangourous, like if u snag it on a raised manhole or something you can say goodbye to the front half of your suspension...
I got a megan racing one (don't ask why...) and I didnt put it on b/c it hung so low...
Also, I hear that some lower front lower tie bars can be dangourous, like if u snag it on a raised manhole or something you can say goodbye to the front half of your suspension...
I got a megan racing one (don't ask why...) and I didnt put it on b/c it hung so low...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sickofitall1113 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about aftermarket rear sway bars. wouldnt those be comparable to the jdm ITR?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the sizes greatly matter...most aftermarket sway bars dont come close to OEM swaybars such as the USDM 22mm and JDm 23mm.....most companies like skunk2, tanabe, perf. techniques, blox. etc, are like 17mm 2 21mm.....the only real big swaybar is the mugen one 27mm i believe????
but be careful the characteristics greatly change on ur car depending on size.
the sizes greatly matter...most aftermarket sway bars dont come close to OEM swaybars such as the USDM 22mm and JDm 23mm.....most companies like skunk2, tanabe, perf. techniques, blox. etc, are like 17mm 2 21mm.....the only real big swaybar is the mugen one 27mm i believe????
but be careful the characteristics greatly change on ur car depending on size.
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phantom_bcw84
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Dec 17, 2007 04:13 PM





