I know it's a long read, but please read and offer help if you can.

Ok, some of you might remember THIS thread, where Neo_ solved the problem quite fast... However, it's returned with more in the bag. I automatically checked the negative battery terminal, as that's what fixed it last time, and it's tight as can be... I checked the valvecover ground, and it's secured, I checked the transmission ground, and it seems secure, what other grounds am I missing?

Anyway:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just cruising, I'll feel the car literally start pulling on itself (Like I pulled the E-Brake up), I'll let off the gas (In gear still), and instead of "catching itself" (You know what you let off in gear, the car just sort of coasts, and winds down gradually?), it would just fall flat on it's face, almost like hitting a bump, and would start winding down from there. I would give it gas again to get going, I would have the pedal depressed almost 50% and nothing would happen, and it would "pop" back up, and start moving again. It's very difficult to go partial throttle when this happens, because partial throttle is right in between the engaged and disengaged point (That's the best way I can think to describe it), so it would be a constant battle trying to figure out how to keep it from disengaging, without going over the speed limit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This problem is the most annoying, however, it's changed RPM points... It now occurs between 1,200RPM-2,000RPM, which makes getting the car going VERY interesting... I had to rev the car up to 3,000RPM or so, and let the clutch out from there, and with an already burnt up clutch, it's not a fun time. (Don't worry, I've got a new clutch setup in the mail)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is getting VERY difficult to drive, it feels like it has an extra 2,000lbs it's dragging. Getting the car going from a dead stop takes more concentration than open heart surgery. Shifting from first into second, is either very violent (When disengaging the clutch), or the clutch just free revs for a few thousand RPM, then catches (Sounds like someone driving a manual who doesn't know how to... That "BAAAAAAAAAH" sound in between shifts). Like I said, it feels like the car is toting another 2,000lbs or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This problem is still evident as well. If I do get the car going without it taking a **** on me (As listed above), the rest of the RPM range is rough. I feel like I have to turn the damn thing to 5,000RPM to get to the same MPH in the same time, as I did when I turn the RPM to 3,500RPM when it's running right.

I know it's not mechanical, because sometimes, the car will drive great, idle perfect, perfect throttle response, runs smooth, no "weighted" feeling... Then all of the sudden it'll just get rough and start being hell to drive.

Another problem, sometimes the car will idle right around 1,000RPM, then it'll drop down to 100RPM or so (HARDLY staying running, lights will start to dim, etc), or sometimes it will jump to 2,000RPM and idle there... No surging, just purely random idle points. I'm not sure if this is IACV related or not.

No check engine lights, 98,000 miles, in great shape... No idea what could be causing this.

Should I take the car to Honda and pay them to run full diagnostics on it? Would this even help? Could it be a possible sensor problem? MAP perhaps?

I'm at a complete loss, and I just want to get this damn problem solved ONCE AND FOR ALL.

ANY input is greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

 

ground by the thermostat?

 

Yeah, it's there... Where does that lead though? It just leads into the harness.

 

32 views and 1 reply... Come on guys, someone has to know what's going on here.

 

Just because your grounds are making secure contact, does not mean electrically has a good surface to transfer. Take off the grounds, check for corrosion, and use sand paper to clean up the surface for the the wire connector, and the surface that it mounts to.

Also a long shot, but check your altenator ground, it also won't hurt to put a voltmeter to it to see if it is functioning properly.

Another thing to look into is your distributor ICM/Igniter.

 

I'm actually conversing with a member right now who gave me the same advice... So I guess that's job No.1 tomorrow. Check the altenator to make sure it's not over charging, or undercharging, or spiking.

Call me a n00b, but where/what's my distributor ICM/Igniter? Where is it located, and how do I check it?

 

No one has any ideas? ANYTHING?

 

Hey, I checked my Helms for you, it says that the ICM is under the distributor cap, the rotor, and the leak cover. Heres what it says for a ICM input test.

1. remove the distributor ignition cap, the rotor, and the leak cover

2. disconnect theh BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM

3. Turn the ignition switch ON. check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. there should be battery voltage

- if there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to setp 4.

4. Turn the ignition switch ON Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. there should be battery voltage.
- if there is no battery voltage, check: ignition coil, WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to step 5

5. Disconnect the 32p connector from the ECM, and check for continuity on the YEL//GRN wire between the ICM and ECM. there should be continuity.

6. Check for continuity on the YEL/GRN wire to body ground. There should be no continuity.

7. Reconnect the eCM 32p connector.

8. Disconnect hte gauge assembly 13p connector, TCM 26p connector and cruise control 14p connector.

9. Check for continuity on the BLU wire between the ICM and tach. there should be continuity.

10. Check for continuity ont he BLU wire to body ground. There should be no continuity.

11. If all tests are normal, reconnect the connectors, and replace the ICM.

 

i'd scan the page for you, but my scanner isn't set up and i have to go to work. if you need it, let me know and i'll do it later when i get home.

 

Appreciate the posts, I'll definately check this tomorrow while checking everything else.

 

Oh, and I just noticed another problem while playing around with it... While the car's idling, revving it up to anywhere between 1,500-2,500RPM, and trying to hold it on that RPM, the RPM will drop almost back down to idle.

Like the car isn't even acknowledging the throttle position...

 

damn. that sounds crazy town.

something on your transmission could be wrong too?

 

It'd be more consistant if it were mechanical... Plus, why would it do the same thing in neutral just sitting there? I thought for a second that it was the clutch acting up, until I did that little test with floating the RPM (See above post).

It's DEFINATELY electrical... I think I'm going to let the dealer, or REDLINE settle this one... Not going to be cheap.

 

could be a bad tps?

i have the same problem, very occasionally. car bogs down hardcore and then just up and jumps. im going to check my grounds

 

I was thinking TPS or MAP... I've heard of MAPs and TPSs going bad, and not even throwing codes sometimes. Which is why I think if Honda does a full diagnostics on it, they'll see that they're not functioning properly, even thought codes aren't being throw.

I don't want to go replacing everything in the engine bay for it to end up being a $10 sensor.

 

Did you get around to checking the alternator/distributor?

 

I was busy all day doing some design work so I can afford this fix, haha. I'm planning on getting to it tomorrow in between work and running around.

Doing a photoshoot with a Ferrari Enzo and a Ford GT tomorrow, hopefully I can sneak the Type-R in a few shots, I'll post up pictures.

The car's not fun/easy to drive, but I'll be damned if I won't drive it to get it in some shots with an Enzo and a GT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing a photoshoot with a Ferrari Enzo and a Ford GT tomorrow, hopefully I can sneak the Type-R in a few shots, I'll post up pictures.
</TD></TR></TABLE>



Hrm. Two hours to ILM from here. Work won't miss me, will they?

 

Haha, I'm looking forward to it quite a bit... I just hope my batteries will last for all the pictures I'll be taking.

 

Take it a to a dealership. They will be able to diagnose it in a heartbeat.

 

^ That's the plan this week... How badly am I going to get railed out on this? Lube? Or no lube?

I have no idea what to expect cost wise... All of my friends that used to work at the dealership no longer work there, I don't have a connection anymore. So I'm just the average guy off the street now.

 

They will tell you what the charges are prior from doing work. All its going to take is hooking up a computer to your vehicle.

 

why not go to a place that does that work specificly (AES Auto Electric Systems)is one that we use

 

I don't believe we have AES around here... I suppose the stealership will be able to diagnose the problem just fine. We'll find out soon.

 

Your caR symtoms closely related to what happened to my '04 CRV. The dealer diagnosed to a bad TB and changed it. It is working great ever since(3 yrs). They listed the TB was replaced, but, I think either the MAP sensor or the TPS is bad. Hope this help.