hey people.... i was curious if you guys could go back and do it all again from scratch? what set up would you go with?

the set up i was thinking about would be
--- b18c1 block(unless c5 from the type- r i believe would be better?)
--- obdi gsr head ( i heard that the 99-00 si head was best vtec head?
--- venom polished (boxy type) intake manifold (accepts 66mm tb max)-unless another intake manifold with have a better flow
--- 65mm tb bored that extra lil 1mm for full air flow potential
--- cia with k&n filter
--- gsr tranny with lsd (but i hear from my boy the b16 tranny is better in essence, he says besdt trany set up would be the 1st,2nd,3rd gears from b16 and gsr's 4th and 5th gear..............

and i guess it would help to say what the setup up would be pushing.... im looking to throw in a 100 shot ( thinkin maybe a nice NX wet kit ) and to run a small clean turbo setup.. nothing to major to run .., about 5-10 psi boost max.... thanx for your time reading.. and i hope i can get some nice internal tips as well... thanx...
ps.. can someone quickly explain the itr to me and non itr.. thanx alot...

 

Built B16 head w/ IB Spec IM
86mm bored out b18c block sleeved of course
12.5 compression
SRI w/ Velocity Stack (K&N for street)
70mm TB
Hytech Header/Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro 2+ or Jun III cams
Type-R Tranny w/ 4.9FD
Tuned on NepTune

 

IB spec IM?????
SRI/w velocity stack
and whick is the typer are tranny (the jdm gsr tranny?)

.. what kinda hp numbers do you think i can see with that set up?

 

IB Spec Intake Manifold, basically its a ported IM, makes the same gains as ITBs with better streetability, short ram intake with a velocity stack which is sorta like a bell mouth intake...type r tranny is just the tranny out of an integra type-r comes with lsd...with that setup probably looking at 230-240whp NA

 

Nope nope nope. I've been around the block a few times. Priority on a daily driver is RELIABILITY. Power has limits and comes in last behind economy.

Get a low mileage JDM motor, B18C1, or even a B18B. Keep it as stock as possible. Intake and exhaust bolt ons are fine, but NO INTERNALS. Don't even open that motor up. Keep it emissions legal. Just do all the maintenance like timing belt, accessory belts, valve cover gasket and tube seals, cam seal if necessary, (if crank seal is leaking, throw that motor away), synthetic oil and a good brand of filter, add an oil cooler, if it's auto add a tranny cooler, Magnecor plug wires (they last forever), NGK or denso plugs, cap and rotor, new O2 sensor (NGK or Denso, NOT Bosch). Get an OEM LSD tranny, put GM synchromesh with the friction modifier in it.

Keep a spare distributer, brake master cylinder, alternator, starter, and axles on hand. Get the lifetime warranty of everything. Get some Brembo rotors and Metalmaster pads. Put ATE superblue brake fluid in.

If you ever think you're getting bored with the car, you can build the suspension. Just don't put race parts on your street car ie 10k springs vs progressive rate street springs.

I guarantee you that you'll be happy with the end result. It wont be the fastest car on the block, but it will be faster than 95% of the cars on the road, plenty of fun, get good mileage, you wont fall into debt, and it's going to spend more time on the road than on jackstands.

Now personally I have two cars. A stock 92 RS, and a built yet street friendly 93 Civic. The RS is probably going to get a B16 cable tranny w/LSD because the current tranny is grinding in 3rd. The B18A has 220k, but is going strong. When it goes out I'll swap in a B18C1 to help with steep hills and getting on the freeway when you're stuck behind idiots going 45mph. But other than that it's going to stay stock.

 

^ i agree to most of your points, but i think you can do more to a motor and still have it be reliable. key points on having a modified car is keeping up with maintence more often and good tuning. if you do touch the internals make sure the builder is doing EVERYTHING to OEM specs, no half assing or "i know what torquing 16 ft/lbs by hand feels like" that kinda bs will lead to problems.

 

stock gsr head with itr cams and valvetrain
stock gsr block
skunk2 manifold
arp headstuds
oem headgasket
gsr tranny with lsd
afi/peakboost/full-race turbo kit with turbo of your choice
750cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
neptune/hondata/crome/whatever you like

keep things simple. a setup like that is good for 300-350whp which is more than enough for a street car.

 

thanx alot guys... def gave me some insite on what kionda direction i wanna go with this set up.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock gsr head with itr cams and valvetrain
stock gsr block
skunk2 manifold
arp headstuds
oem headgasket
gsr tranny with lsd
afi/peakboost/full-race turbo kit with turbo of your choice
750cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
neptune/hondata/crome/whatever you like

keep things simple. a setup like that is good for 300-350whp which is more than enough for a street car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2!

Thats what i did......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock gsr head with itr cams and valvetrain
stock gsr block
skunk2 manifold
arp headstuds
oem headgasket
gsr tranny with lsd
afi/peakboost/full-race turbo kit with turbo of your choice
750cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
neptune/hondata/crome/whatever you like

keep things simple. a setup like that is good for 300-350whp which is more than enough for a street car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bingo.

 

n/a b20 vtec. thats what i got. i dont dailuy drive the DA anymore but i drove it everyday for almost a year. never had any problems. i havent driven it in probably 3 monthsnow though

 

H2B

Thats what I wish I would have just done instead of my poormans R