What causes oil rings to fail ?
Seems like oil ring failure is not an uncommon problem (more common than valve seals perhaps...) and I suspect mine are potentially shot as well. Anybody know what causes this ? Is there a way to verify bad oil rings once the engine is opened up ?
Thanks.
Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itrdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody know what causes this ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That little spot on your tach between 6k and 8.5k.
That little spot on your tach between 6k and 8.5k.
It could be anumber of causes..
Prolonged detonation can damage rings
Rings could have not properly seated from the start
Not being properly lubed
Excessive heat
Prolonged detonation can damage rings
Rings could have not properly seated from the start
Not being properly lubed
Excessive heat
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to add to this, what needs to be done to correct the problem? can a simple hone and new rings fix the problem? or do the cylinders need to be bored out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.
I would say most common culprit in improper break-in.
Detonation etc just amplifies the problem.
Moto-man break-in method is best!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Detonation etc just amplifies the problem.
Moto-man break-in method is best!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I think to really determine the repair you need to measure everything, check for abnormalities. Piston ovalization, cylinder scoring, etc.
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I think to really determine the repair you need to measure everything, check for abnormalities. Piston ovalization, cylinder scoring, etc.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you pull the motor apart, see no visible signs of damage to the cyl or pistons, take some measurements and things check out, do you think a hone and rings will fix the problem as long as the new rings are broken in properly? I may have to do this in the near future so Im just trying to get some opinion on it.
IMO, that all depends on the damage caused, if any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you pull the motor apart, see no visible signs of damage to the cyl or pistons, take some measurements and things check out, do you think a hone and rings will fix the problem as long as the new rings are broken in properly? I may have to do this in the near future so Im just trying to get some opinion on it.
If nothing is messed up, yes, rings and a hone should be fine. Ovalized pistons are a big deal though, and will definitely cause you problems. That tends to be a problem more on high-mileage engines though.
<--- Just did rings/hone on his B20, and not burning oil! We also didn't bother to check spec on pistons or bore, as this was very low dollar. However, I have seen at least one motor with the same treatment that did not fare well, and it was due to the pistons.
<--- Just did rings/hone on his B20, and not burning oil! We also didn't bother to check spec on pistons or bore, as this was very low dollar. However, I have seen at least one motor with the same treatment that did not fare well, and it was due to the pistons.
Thanks to all for the feedback.
I'm consuming about 1 qt / 1000-1500 mi and performance is still excellent (stock engine), though compression is a bit concerning (220, 240, 250, 260). Still need to do leak check etc...
I'm consuming about 1 qt / 1000-1500 mi and performance is still excellent (stock engine), though compression is a bit concerning (220, 240, 250, 260). Still need to do leak check etc...
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