Here is what I have done so far. I got a car that was converted to obd1 with a no name wire conversion. It has orange wires, not sure who uses them.

So I compared it to my rywire conversion harness and some things were different. Mainly the o2 sensor wire positions. I didnt mess with them because it wasnt throwing that code.

I did the steps on how to diagnose it. I jumpered the switch to +bat and it clicked on. So the solenoid worked. I got an ohm reading of about 20 from the ecu to the solenoid. So that was fine.

I took out the no name harness and my rywire harness and started comparing all the wires. So mostly it was about the same. But I just said screw it and switched the pressure switch and the solenoid to see if that would work. And it didnt.

So then I just ran a wire from +bat inside the car and another wire from the solenoid to the inside of the car. I had my gf drive the car and she got it up to 5g and I connected the wires and vtec popped.

What should I do about this? Should I just get a rywire harness so I know that it will work? Or do you think there is another problem? Thanks
jake

 

no one know?

 

bump

 

haha, thanks I guess no one knows.

 

what ecu you running

 

Ever think of running a straight wire back from the solenoid to the correct ECU pin?

 

its a p30 ecu

 

did you ever get the problem fixed?

i got the same ****** code, i cant shake no matter what i do...

CEL 21 as soon as i start the car....solenoid clicks when i put 12V to it....changed the solenoid,same thing...the solenoids screens arent clogged, the cylinder moves freely, and im getting 28 ohms...

the only thing that doesnt make sense to me is that vtec works fine...

i dont have a spare oil pressure guage so i guess thats next on my things to check....

but wouldnt an oil pressure issue cause the oil pressure sensor to go off, not the solenoid....nothing has worked so far...extremely frustrating

 

Make sure you aren't throwing a CEL other then 21. Then check continuity from VTEC sol. 12V wire to A4 on your OBD1 harness side. If it's good, check to see if there is no continuity between A4 and body ground. If it doesn't, then the wiring is fine.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1812135

 

No still havent found out the problem. We got a rywire harness and that got rid of all the codes. Im not throwing any codes at all right now. And still no vtec!! Ug, im getting so mad. I think im going to switch the vtec solenoids with my other engine and see what happens.

 

You and I are having the same problem........

Does anybody have any idea???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No still havent found out the problem. We got a rywire harness and that got rid of all the codes. Im not throwing any codes at all right now. And still no vtec!! Ug, im getting so mad. I think im going to switch the vtec solenoids with my other engine and see what happens. </TD></TR></TABLE>

does the solenoid click when you give it 12v?

oil level...

try another ecu

 

does the speedo work?

 

yeah it clicks when i give it 12v. We just bought the car so Im thinking oil might have something to do with it. Maybe too thick. But its just a bit over full. Looks like synthetic but im not 100%. And I tried my ecu from my lsvtec civic and it didnt help at all. And yeah the spedo works.

 

i remeber i had an issue in my ef where i wasnt getting power to my speed pulser and it would cause my vtec not to operate...oh **** but then it would throw a cel for vss....you said ur not getting any codes right?

 

yo need this for vtec

speedo
coolant temp
pressure switch
vtec solenoid
if all of these are workin then you have vtec.....did you run the two wires from the rear of the block that were for the old coolant temp sensor and relocate them to the t stat housing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i remeber i had an issue in my ef where i wasnt getting power to my speed pulser and it would cause my vtec not to operate...oh **** but then it would throw a cel for vss....you said ur not getting any codes right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmmmmmm... thats interesting because when we first bought the car the guy said that the vss was one of the 3 codes it was throwing. So far it hasnt thrown a code yet since the new obd0-1 conversion harness but we havent driven it that much. So im wondering if thats the problem. What did you do to fix that?

Oh and for the coolant temp. Im not thinking that is one of the problems because on my obd0-1 i didnt run those wires to the t-housing and my vtec works just fine.

 

wait a minute, this is a cable driven speedo so i dont think its the vss.

 

The cable speedos still have VSS, I believe it sends from the cluster to the ECU. The VSS code doesn't always come on right away, if the cable is in enough to work, but it's loose, it can take a little driving for it to go off, and then when you turn the car off it disappears. Check that, since it sounds like your solenoid is fine. Search for speedometer cable and you'll see how to install it properly, it has to be in far enough for the clip to fit into the groove.

 

im gonna say ecu... if you can make vtec work just by jumping it to 12v straight, then the ecu is not sending the signal. for what ever reason. SO do your research and track down ALL the reasons why vtec wouldnt work on THAT particular ecu. I had a crx running pr3 that wouldnt crack vtec when cold... but in my last crx I had a spoon pr3 that cracked vtec ALMOST anytime... just not with dizzy codes... weird.

 

I doubt it's the ECU, it's actually not that common to see a bad ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zuum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had a crx running pr3 that wouldnt crack vtec when cold...</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22EHSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yo need this for vtec

speedo
coolant temp
pressure switch
vtec solenoid
if all of these are workin then you have vtec.....did you run the two wires from the rear of the block that were for the old coolant temp sensor and relocate them to the t stat housing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

P30 is a dual cam ecu so there is a knock sensor too... that will cause vtec NOT to work, but may not throw a code. Had that problem on my first b16 swap the first day i finished. Relocated the knck wire to the right pic location at the ecu, and WHOA NELLY. LOL Just another suggestion.

 

I'm 99% sure the knock sensor doesn't matter for VTEC. What happens on the Z6 with no knock sensor?

 

vtec will still engage if its throwing a knock sensor code23...

even though its cable driven it is still a VSS...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh and for the coolant temp. Im not thinking that is one of the problems because on my obd0-1 i didnt run those wires to the t-housing and my vtec works just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well if you are referring to the two nipple plug on the back of the block by the oil pressure sender, that is the fan switch....it wont affect vtec, but your fan wont come on if its not connected....the obd1 engines have the fan switch on the thermostat not the back of the block....but if your still using an obd0 engine and just doing an obd1 conversion leave the wires as is.