At about 40mph, just before it shifts into 4th, the trans makes the whole car shutter. Get into the gas a little more it finaly shifts into 4th with a little bit of a jerk, not very smooth at all. Seems to do it if the car is driven at an RPM just before the shift point, just not as noticable as before 4th gear. Any and all input is apreciated.

 

How many miles are on it? I battled my failing auto tranny for a year before I finally replaced it. If you have over 150k miles on it, it is probably about done and you are soon to be due for a new tranny

I would change the fluid with Genuine Honda ATF, drive it for a day or two and then change it again. You might go for a third time as well. That might help / might not. Changing the fluid is easy, the drain plug is located near the passenger side front wheel. I don't even jack the car up, just slide a low pan under the car.

Honda ATF is like $6 a quart, and each time you drain and refill it takes 3 quarts. don't use anything else.

I replaced my auto tranny a few weeks ago. I got a low mileage used one from a local salvage yard with a 2 year warranty for $300. Drives like new now!

 

When you change it, you have to do it 3 times in order to change all of the fluid. Alot of it remains in the torque converter. If you remove the solenoids on the side of the tranny you'll see filters which can be cleaned out. It might not be a tranny issue but a lockup control solenoid wiring issue too.

Good luck!

 

The factory manual lists no fewer than a dozen possible problems relating to the 3-4 upshift. Here is a sample of whats listed for "Excessive shock on upshift from 3-4"...

4th clutch defective
Linear solenoid defective
cpc valve stuck
cpb valve stuck
3rd accumulator defective
Lock up control solenoid valve A defective
Lock up control solenoid valve B defective
Countershaft speed sensor defective

Then there is also the symptom "Harsh upshift from 3-4" That has a few other causes.

To test the 4th clutch you can do a stall test in "R". That is put the car in R and hold down the brake pedal and push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold for a few seconds. Watch the tach, The engine RPM's should stop between 2550 and 2850. If the tach reads higher than that, your 4th clutch is defective.

To do any further meaningful troubleshooting of solenoids or the valve body on your own will require a fluid pressure gauge with hoses, and a factory manual.
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As it is, replacing the fluid 3 times will run you $54. The linear solenoid is always suspect and there is a TSB recommending its replacement on some models. However, a new linear solenoid runs $150! Again, it may or may not be the problem. You can test solenoids by removing them and giving them some voltage. They should make a sharp, audible 'click".

Low mileage used auto trannys are pretty cheap. If you have a lot of miles on it, it may be best in the long run to just replace the tranny.

 

Jibs, you're the man!

 

Thanks guys, for all the info. I am going to run it until it dies. Then maybe my wife will get the new van she wants and I can have my Jeep Cherokee back.

 

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To test the 4th clutch you can do a stall test in "R". That is put the car in R and hold down the brake pedal and push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold for a few seconds. Watch the tach, The engine RPM's should stop between 2550 and 2850. If the tach reads higher than that, your 4th clutch is defective.
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Why would putting it in reverse for this test work? Why not put it in 4th? Is there a similiar test for the 3rd clutch and so on?