Whats going on all?

I was under the car today cleaning the underside when I noticed I had an oil leak. It originally looked like it was leaking from the crush washer, but upon further inspection, it looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking. It appears to be leaking from the front of the pan to the back...The gasket has less than 1000 miles on it and the oil pan also has around 10k miles..

Is it a difficult process to drop out the oil pan and replace the gasket?

What torque specs should I tighten the pan back to the block?

As always, any input is appreciated!
Brian




Modified by 00civicsiboy at 8:23 PM 4/20/2007

 

No its not that hard. Just time consuming. Go to Honda or where ever and pickup a gasket and some RTV sealant. Jack your car up and dain all the oil (probably want to buy new oil and filter) remove all the bolts from the pan. Pull the pan off because the RTV will still hold it up there after you get all the bolts out. drop the pan, remove old gasket, install new gasket, and add the RTV to the surface where the pan meets the block. Then tighten the bolts to 104 in-lbs. (NOT FOOT POUNDS)

 

with the header off and the car on jacks it shouldnt be that hard. I would say a decent DIY'er. As far as torque specs im not quite sure.

 

I appreciate the quick response! It is leaking quite a bit and on Monday I will have to drive over 100 miles and I am hoping I can knock out this project before the trip.

I just dont understand why it is leaking. The motors has less than 10k miles on it and the gasket and pan have less than that.

Is there anything else I should look at before replacing the gasket?

 

no its deffinately not a big job..Drain oil obviously, unbolt and drop the oil pan, scrape off any remaining gasket material from the block and oil pan..its also a good idea to inspect and clean out any sludge in the oil pan at this point, put gasket on the oil pan. it may take a little wiggling to make sure the oil pan is seated correctly to the block..thread in the bolts, snug all the bolts up using a criss-cross pattern.. i like to skip every three, then torque the bolts to 7-9 ft/lbs using the same pattern, refill oil and check for leaks after start up.. worst case scenario you could have a warped pan if it still leaks. You could also change the filter while your down there. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">add the RTV to the surface where the pan meets the block. Then tighten the bolts to 104 in-lbs. (NOT FOOT POUNDS)</TD></TR></TABLE> FYI 104in/lbs equals 8.6 ft/lbs

 

just remember i didnt read much after the second post but make sure you scrap all the old rtv off the block and pan scrap it all off or it wont seal

 

Good write up. I am hoping the pan is not warped. There is no reason why it should be. It has never been bottomed out or scarped. It just started leaking these past couple of days.

If it was leaking from the oil drain, it would drip straight down correct?

 

if it was leaking from the drain plug there wouldnt be oil on the front at the block gasket seam like you described..anyways torque the plug to 29-32 ft/lbs if you want to get technical after putting on a new crush washer of course.

 

Its weird. There is oil at the drain plug along with oil down at the thinner part of the oil pan. I am just gonna replace the gasket and the crush washer and see if that fixes it.

Thanks for all of the support!