Ok, so my helms manual is in the mail...but in the meantime, I discovered that my rex's driver's side rear disk brake is locked up. I'm guessing it's due to the parking brake, because it's been garaged for 3 years now and I'm finally able to start working on it again.

Anyway, I'm kinda at a loss.

Right now I have the wheel pulled off, and a friend of mine said to tap on the drum lightly with a hammer and see if I could knock something loose enough to get it to start turning again. No luck, and I can't remove the drum (i don't think) because well I don't have the shop manual, but the bolts that I think I have to remove are not all accessible. Anyone have any ideas how to to get this to work? BTW, I did try driving back and forth a little in the garage, but all that happened was I skidded, lol. So it must be STUCK stuck. And, yes, the e-brake (handle part inside the car) is disengaged.

The whole episode sort of reminded me of those little dogs that plant their a** on the ground and start walking around with their front feet, haha.


Modified by dclewis at 6:28 PM 5/5/2007

 

Yeah, brake fluid collects moisture and that’s why you should bleed your breaks every once in a while to get the old crap out. if that **** has been sitting with the e brace on for three years you might be screwed. Maybe try to pry on the lug nuts (with the nuts on so you don’t expletive up the threads) with a long *** breaker bar have a buddy smack the expletive out of it with a hammer while you pry. If it does break loose turn the drum to the adjuster hole and turn the star adjuster all the way in. there should be two holes, find long bolts that fit screw them into the holes evenly to pop the drums off.. worst case just get the rear disc off a teg and replace the whole trailing arm. Disc are easier to work on. You also need to think about if one rusted up what do the rest of them look like and the lines as well.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll try and see what happens.

 

This is why when you park cars for long periods of times, dont use the ebrake or leave it in gear.

 

Now I know.

 

also open the bleeder valve in the back and see if that helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclewis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No luck, and I can't remove the drum (i don't think) because well I don't have the shop manual, but the bolts that I think I have to remove are not all accessible</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a little opening in the back, where you can adjust the star wheel so the brakes are not pushing against the drum anymore. Also make sure your e-brake is not stuck

 

Thanks everybody. I got my shop manual in the mail today so I have that and I'll try your suggestions.

 

Hi,when i bought my last car it had that problem.The previous owner let it sit a whole year with the e-brake on through winter as well..I managed to get it running but couldn't get it moving...I had to use a pretty good size rubber mallet and literally beat the **** out of the drum,then put the wheel back on for leverage and wiggle it back and fourth,then repeat the beating untill it was loose enough to be broken freely by the pull of the car.

 

I do appreciate all the advice...here's how it went today...

Well, this thing is REALLY stuck on there. One of my 8mm bolts (both were new because I didn't have any believe it or not) stripped out and the other one snapped off in the little hole in the drum!!!! what the???????????????? forget a rubber mallet, I was ready to take a sledge hammer to the thing tonight. It just will not come off. I found the little rubber plug in the back but I can't see what I'm doing even with a trouble light right in there.

I have no idea how to get the dang thing off besides tearing the whole trailing arm off.

...and if I do that I might as well just by two new CRX si rear trailing arms and a new si e-brake cable if you know where I'm going with that.

 

OK, I'm hoping someone has been in my situation before...

Finally got mad and beat the crap out of the drum and it came off (with the help of some PB blast too). I'm still going to try to proceed to do the drum to disk swap, but only problem I'm having (and this is dumb) is the e-brake cable is held in place with 2 clips. They're very easy to get to, but the bolts won't come off, and I can start to feel the wrench slip (even after multiple shots of PB blast)...anyone have any ideas?

No propane torch to the bolts, since they're near the gas tank (which has a small leak). That would be really retarded.

 

Not really sure if your talking about inside the cab or at the back of the brake drum. If your talking about swapping the rear to disc brakes, what you will need to do or I’ll say the way I did it on many hatches (never tried a crx) is to take off the whole trailing arm assembly.
Go inside, take off the shifter cover and unscrew the ends of the e-brake cables.
Go under the car and unbolt the clamps that hold the cables in place.
Undo the bolts that hole the trailing arm assembly on.

Get disc brakes off any Teg to include the e-brake cables and brake-proportioning valve.

Go under the hood and change the pro valve.

Put the disc brakes assemblies on.

Put new rotors and pads all the way around.

Bleed the brakes.


Also notice the red search button at the top of the page. You can always click on that and search for “disc brakes” under the ef forum and also click the “archived” button. All this has been document at length, before

 

Yup, drum to disk swap. Yup e-brake disassembled from inside the cab. Pretty much have everything ready except the stupid "brackets" that hold on the e-brake cable. Somehow snapped the hard line along the way behind the drum.

I *think* I might have a shop that can give me pretty much all of the suspension I need from a crx si if I need it.

I did a search a while back and came up with some instructions that seemed good but left out some details like reusing the old wheel bearings, so I've been monkeying around with the drum/hub assembly. I'm a noob and plus usually I have to have everything spelled out for me which is one reason I ended up getting the haynes manual.


&gt;&gt;&gt;
Also notice the red search button at the top of the page. You can always click on that and search for “disc brakes” under the ef forum and also click the “archived” button. All this has been document at length, before
&lt;&lt;&lt;

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions.

 

there is no such thing as to many questions
especially if your trying to lurn some thing like
this keep up the good work bud

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclewis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, drum to disk swap. Yup e-brake disassembled from inside the cab. Pretty much have everything ready except the stupid "brackets" that hold on the e-brake cable. Somehow snapped the hard line along the way behind the drum.

I *think* I might have a shop that can give me pretty much all of the suspension I need from a crx si if I need it.

I did a search a while back and came up with some instructions that seemed good but left out some details like reusing the old wheel bearings, so I've been monkeying around with the drum/hub assembly. I'm a noob and plus usually I have to have everything spelled out for me which is one reason I ended up getting the haynes manual.


&gt;&gt;&gt;
Also notice the red search button at the top of the page. You can always click on that and search for “disc brakes” under the ef forum and also click the “archived” button. All this has been document at length, before
&lt;&lt;&lt;

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not asking too many questions just as stated above all this has been covered. I know because I did my first swap a few years ago by using info posted on Honda-tech. I’m not trying to be an *** or my first response would of read SEARCH lol.

I really think your reading too much into this. Get some teg disc brakes assemblies and bolt them on. They will come with everything you need.

use this as a guide.

 

ok, here is a question that I haven't found answered yet, and if it is, please post the link. Where do the gas and brake lines run???? I was under there looking around, but there isn't much to look at. The only things that are running underneath are the exhaust. The brakes line "disappear" through the wheel well, and the gas lines, I don't even see them coming out of the gas tank anywhere. ???

My shop manual doesn't say anything except "follow the lines". lol.

 

Under back seat along the bottom of the doorjambs and through firewall.

 

oh seriously? they run inside? hehe...that's cool.

 

OK, in the process of changing this brake system setup, I've broken the hard line. What I'd like to be able to do instead of replacing the whole line is cut and re-flare the line (since all of the line inside the car looks brand new save for some dust) and mate it with stainless steel hard brake line that will be exposed to the elements. The reason for the stainless steel is because I'm trying to think ahead and if I need to disassemble anything in the future, it'd probably be easier if the lines weren't all corroded or seized from rust.

Anyway, my question is: is it OK to mate the two different kinds of steel together?

Thanks in advance.

 

trust me the inside of that line looks like ***. replace them you can get line from most auto parts stores.

 

I might just pay someone to run all new lines as dealing with what I did wasn't all that much fun, lol

...I had to keep working on the car, so I rented a double flare tool and decided on splicing in regular lines to the "good line" for right now (it was pretty cheap at autozone).

Speaking of which, just curious why would the lines look ok on the outside but not be good? When I cut off a section of the good line to flare it, I didn't notice anything amiss...just trying to figure out what your line of reasoning is?

 

because metal corrodes over time especially when exposed to brake fluid and water. if your happy with them, then don't replace em. if you would like to replace them get a hose bender and knock it out yourself it is cheap and easy i would say the hardest part it the flaring and you have do that already. but bottom line is it's your car and your safety.

 

OK, so this project has pretty much turned into the project from hell.

I'm hoping someone REALLY experienced with old cars can help me out of this jam because I am just stuck and have no idea what to do now.

Basically, bolts that weren't supposed to break, broke. I had to saw off the bolt connecting the lower arm to the shock, and the one that held on the compensator arm to the body on the pass side (I'm not sure who said that you could remove the trailing arm from the comp arm without removing the comp arm, but that is so totally impossible - literally, the bolt comes out towards the body of the car and there is about an inch clearance and the bolt is a good 2 inches so it absolutely will not slide out. Plus my bushings, the inner part that is metal, was melded to the bolt holding it in because at first I thought I might be able to weasel it out of there, but when I tried to unbolt it, the whole bushing just rotated around with the bolt. I'm pretty sure it was like the other bolt I had to saw off, the bolt and bushing looked like one piece, weird).

Anyway, after sawing the bolt off that held on the compensator arm (because the bushing on that one also was melded to the bolt) I noticed that the nut that holds the bolt in just kinda fell inside the car. There's no "access panel" that I can see, so I'm stumped as to how to get another nut back in there without it also falling in (I tried it once and the new nut fell in also ) so I can put the new assy on.

Can anyone tell me how I can get the new comp arm to bolt in? This seems like a crappy design if that nut just sits loose back in there. I'm amazed that I got the other side to torque down to spec if that's the case...

 

any help on this please??????? I wanted to try to get this project finished by tonight if possible?

 

what are you doing????? you really need to think things out before cutting bolt heads off.
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