Idle Problem
OBD0 D16A6T throwing no codes, but when the idle drops after raising the RPM's, the car wants to stall, then idle slowly goes to back normal (750RPM).
I cleaned the IACV but it still idles poorly. Maybe the FITV? What do you think?
I cleaned the IACV but it still idles poorly. Maybe the FITV? What do you think?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a similar problem, what do i need to check the codes? obd0 dohc zc 1.6L, same as urs basically</TD></TR></TABLE>
Peel back your carpet, you will see your ECU cover. There is a small circular window that will have a blinking light in it. Count the blinks. There will be a fairly long pause inbetween codes.
Peel back your carpet, you will see your ECU cover. There is a small circular window that will have a blinking light in it. Count the blinks. There will be a fairly long pause inbetween codes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1991civicsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD0 D16A6T throwing no codes, but when the idle drops after raising the RPM's, the car wants to stall, then idle slowly goes to back normal (750RPM).
I cleaned the IACV but it still idles poorly. Maybe the FITV? What do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Adjust your idle correctly. Proper idle adjustment can be found
here
I cleaned the IACV but it still idles poorly. Maybe the FITV? What do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Adjust your idle correctly. Proper idle adjustment can be found
here
does it blink very bright, and at anytime the car is on? cause i have completely stripped out interior w/ no carpet and i dont remeber seeing my ecu blinking, would the fact that all i have on my intake is a cone filter with nothing to put the vaccum line from my valve cover on?
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when i start my car up in the morning, it just cranks for about ten secs and when it fires up i have to give it gas to keep it from cutting out, i hold down the pedle a lil and it kinda puts for a sec and then the rpms revs up really fast cause im pushing the pedle to much and i have to keep giving it just just about 1 to 1.5k to keep it from cutting out still, do you have any idea what my problem is?
Try cleaning out your EACV, then bleeding your coolant system. Then adjust the idle like this.
That should fix most of the problem.
Is your check engine light on? What codes if so?
That should fix most of the problem.
Is your check engine light on? What codes if so?
yea the light is on, im gonna check tomorrow and see what i can figure out, im not sure if i can adjust my idle right because my brake lights like to come on by themselves when nobody is even in the car and theres an alarm system engaged that i couldnt get to turn off and now the only think it does is make my corner lights blink when i connect the ground(because my tail lights stay on i have to disconnect my battery) they will turn off after awhile but when i open the passenger door only(because the sensor is missing from the drivers side) they blink again, so i dont know if i will be able to keep all my lights off, could i still try? i have no ac or p/s if that matters.
im not sure how to take the alarm out, im gonna have it taken out, but right now im low on cash, my check engine light is always on, but my ecu isnt blinking at all, how do i clean the EACV, im not sure where its located, and what do i do to bleed the cooling system?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i start my car up in the morning, it just cranks for about ten secs and when it fires up i have to give it gas to keep it from cutting out, i hold down the pedle a lil and it kinda puts for a sec and then the rpms revs up really fast cause im pushing the pedle to much and i have to keep giving it just just about 1 to 1.5k to keep it from cutting out still, do you have any idea what my problem is?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a bad main relay.
Sounds like a bad main relay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sounds like a bad main relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is there anything else that might cause this?
Sounds like a bad main relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is there anything else that might cause this?
Is it possible you have incorrectly sized injectors in your engine?
When I was turbocharged and running 550cc injectors, even with tuning cold starts would sometimes die. Before tuning I always had to sit with the car until it warmed up.
When I was turbocharged and running 550cc injectors, even with tuning cold starts would sometimes die. Before tuning I always had to sit with the car until it warmed up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible you have incorrectly sized injectors in your engine?
When I was turbocharged and running 550cc injectors, even with tuning cold starts would sometimes die. Before tuning I always had to sit with the car until it warmed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont believe so, it was running right when i drove it from dallas, it sat there for awhile until i wanted to buy and then the guy had someone change the tranny out and then once i got it back it started right up for the week that i drove it but the clutch was going out, and while i was changing that, i put a 91 gs integ ecu in and after i finaly got the right clutch and got it started it and it was doing what its doing now, i found out that thats not the right ecu, i need an 89, pm7 i believe, when i discovered that i changed it back, im not sure what they put in it when they swapped it for a dohc zc , they might have used the stock one but i dont know, but any way its still doing the same thing.
When I was turbocharged and running 550cc injectors, even with tuning cold starts would sometimes die. Before tuning I always had to sit with the car until it warmed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont believe so, it was running right when i drove it from dallas, it sat there for awhile until i wanted to buy and then the guy had someone change the tranny out and then once i got it back it started right up for the week that i drove it but the clutch was going out, and while i was changing that, i put a 91 gs integ ecu in and after i finaly got the right clutch and got it started it and it was doing what its doing now, i found out that thats not the right ecu, i need an 89, pm7 i believe, when i discovered that i changed it back, im not sure what they put in it when they swapped it for a dohc zc , they might have used the stock one but i dont know, but any way its still doing the same thing.
You need to count the flashes. If there are multiple codes, there will be a pause between the flashes. If you get the same number of flashes after counting them twice, then you only have one code. Let us know how many flashes you count.
i didnt count all of them but when i look last night and each time i saw the light flashing about five or six times. and it looked like it was a red light, isnt normaly a yellow light?
No, it's the red light you're interested in. Count the number of times it blinks. That is your code. If it pauses and blinks a different number of times, then you should count that number too. Keep going until the pattern repeats.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's the red light you're interested in. Count the number of times it blinks. That is your code. If it pauses and blinks a different number of times, then you should count that number too. Keep going until the pattern repeats.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i counted 6 and 17, coolant temp and vss, which im still having a prob with, i found the cable today and i plugged it back in but my speedo still doesnt work, maybe i dont have it plugged in all the way, its the only place i saw that it could possib. plug into but i guess i need to check it, if thats not it then i need to check it with the tac off right? i kinda been thinkin i need to flush my coolant and start over. i also need to check and make sure those are the only codes its throwing.
Modified by gRim06 at 8:17 PM 4/19/2007
i counted 6 and 17, coolant temp and vss, which im still having a prob with, i found the cable today and i plugged it back in but my speedo still doesnt work, maybe i dont have it plugged in all the way, its the only place i saw that it could possib. plug into but i guess i need to check it, if thats not it then i need to check it with the tac off right? i kinda been thinkin i need to flush my coolant and start over. i also need to check and make sure those are the only codes its throwing.
Modified by gRim06 at 8:17 PM 4/19/2007
You probably either don't have the speedo cable plugged in all the way in the tranny, or it's disconnected from the rear of the gauge cluster.
Do you have a DVOM? If so, you can check your ECT sensor by setting it to read voltage, put the black lead on the battery's negative terminal, and probe the signal wire from the sensor with the red lead (if the sensor wire you first try gives you 0V, probe the other wire). When the car is running but cold (right after you crank it) you should be seeing 2.5 - 4.5V. When the car is fully warmed up, you should see 0.5 - 0.6V. If not, you need to replace the sensor.
Another quick check you can do is see if the IAT and ECT read the same when the car is running but cold (they should read the same).
Do you have a DVOM? If so, you can check your ECT sensor by setting it to read voltage, put the black lead on the battery's negative terminal, and probe the signal wire from the sensor with the red lead (if the sensor wire you first try gives you 0V, probe the other wire). When the car is running but cold (right after you crank it) you should be seeing 2.5 - 4.5V. When the car is fully warmed up, you should see 0.5 - 0.6V. If not, you need to replace the sensor.
Another quick check you can do is see if the IAT and ECT read the same when the car is running but cold (they should read the same).
just unplug the IACV, and it wont even matter to your performance or nothing like that. you'll just throw a check engine light. just get another one and repace it






