What HP did you max out your walboro and stock fuel lines at?
I'd like to see what kind of power people have made on stock fuel lines with 1000cc injectors and a walboro 255lhp in-tank pump.
Please include: Fuel Pressure, Injector Duty, Horsepower. Thanks.
Please include: Fuel Pressure, Injector Duty, Horsepower. Thanks.
Walbro 255Hp with bigger than stock power and ground wires run to them are good for right at 600. Don't trust stock lines past 500, less if '01+ car, somewhere in the mid to high 300's.
PS - Dual intank 255's with 1/2" feed line and stock return = poor man's A1000.
PS - Dual intank 255's with 1/2" feed line and stock return = poor man's A1000.
i have seen 600whp BUT the people who said that they did started to lean out on top....my tuner told me that i could run a bigger power wire to my fuel pump to make it work more efficient...so i could run 550whp safer...
i made 525whp and 410wtq..im sure i could have made 25-50 more whp...still got 5-6psi left for my 3 bar map....
i made 525whp and 410wtq..im sure i could have made 25-50 more whp...still got 5-6psi left for my 3 bar map....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Walbro 255Hp with bigger than stock power and ground wires run to them are good for right at 600. Don't trust stock lines past 500, less if '01+ car, somewhere in the mid to high 300's.
PS - Dual intank 255's with 1/2" feed line and stock return = poor man's A1000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to know. I will upgrade my power and ground wires, my goal is 550-600hp.
PS - Dual intank 255's with 1/2" feed line and stock return = poor man's A1000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to know. I will upgrade my power and ground wires, my goal is 550-600hp.
Yah, 10 to 12 gauge wire for both power and ground. Use the stock fuel pump wiring to actuate a relay, and DO NOT trust the chassis as a ground path as with the stock wiring; go directly to the block. Lastly, don't forget a fuse. 
Seriously, you'll hear a difference in how the fuel pump sounds when you cycle the key to the on position. Stock wiring sucks.

Seriously, you'll hear a difference in how the fuel pump sounds when you cycle the key to the on position. Stock wiring sucks.
ok i have heard of this.....can somebody explain to me how to exactly do this...plz...SO WOULD i use a 10 or 12 gauge wire???
as far as the ground i would ground it to the block???or neg. battery??
as far as the ground i would ground it to the block???or neg. battery??
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I already explained it. It's two wires, bro, not remotely difficult.
The engine block is the common point of the vehicle's electrical system. Here:
http://innovatemotorsports.com...g.php
The engine block is the common point of the vehicle's electrical system. Here:
http://innovatemotorsports.com...g.php
255, stock wires, stock feed to filter, -6 from filter to rail, to reg, to return. 540whp +- cant remember duty sorry it was approaching 80 though if i remember.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the stock fuel pump wiring to actuate a relay,
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The stock pump wire as in the wire going directly to the pump? Or the smaller wire at the main relay?
Thanks!
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The stock pump wire as in the wire going directly to the pump? Or the smaller wire at the main relay?
Thanks!
It comes down to resistance of the connection. 12awg is rated for 41amps (on average), which is a lot of power even for a possitive displacement fluid pump. 12ga is a bit large, but it doesn't really matter.
I'd rather ground right to the battery if you want the most out of it, since the block is still aluminum (more resistance than copper), and still has to travel 2-3ft through the chassis.
I'd rather ground right to the battery if you want the most out of it, since the block is still aluminum (more resistance than copper), and still has to travel 2-3ft through the chassis.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The neg battery terminal will work just the same as the engine block if not better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It will work just the same if the connection between negative battery terminal and the block is perfect. It will never work better. The alternator is the chunk of metal bolted to the engine that creates more than 12.8 volts during engine operation, and it grounds through it's housing to the engine. On my drag car it creates 16 volts for various reasons, over driving fuel pump and coil being the primary two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It comes down to resistance of the connection. 12awg is rated for 41amps (on average), which is a lot of power even for a possitive displacement fluid pump. 12ga is a bit large, but it doesn't really matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, but all the extra surface area it has when crimped (and then ideally soldered) to a connector really pays off in longevity. A little overhead that doesn't cost more than pennies extra never hurt anything.
It will work just the same if the connection between negative battery terminal and the block is perfect. It will never work better. The alternator is the chunk of metal bolted to the engine that creates more than 12.8 volts during engine operation, and it grounds through it's housing to the engine. On my drag car it creates 16 volts for various reasons, over driving fuel pump and coil being the primary two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It comes down to resistance of the connection. 12awg is rated for 41amps (on average), which is a lot of power even for a possitive displacement fluid pump. 12ga is a bit large, but it doesn't really matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, but all the extra surface area it has when crimped (and then ideally soldered) to a connector really pays off in longevity. A little overhead that doesn't cost more than pennies extra never hurt anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already explained it. It's two wires, bro, not remotely difficult.
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good lord who are you and what did you do with the real JDavis??
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good lord who are you and what did you do with the real JDavis??
1000rc injectors b16a stock sleeves, aem fuel rail fpr walbro 255hp pump
made 594 at 30psi
which was prob close to max fuel pressure under 80 percent duty cycle but close
dan
made 594 at 30psi
which was prob close to max fuel pressure under 80 percent duty cycle but close

dan
255walbro and 1000cc on stock wires and hoses, 630, and the fuel never dropped off, stopped there.
you could always run a 255 intank and another inline cole, i know fred HPC made over 700whp on that car and went 10.1 @ 149 be4 he sold it....
if anyone can actually manufacture a bracket for two intank pumps that would be great but i dont think anyone has done it yet..
if anyone can actually manufacture a bracket for two intank pumps that would be great but i dont think anyone has done it yet..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nexxxt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anyone can actually manufacture a bracket for two intank pumps that would be great but i dont think anyone has done it yet..</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not the bracket that's the problem. Its fitting them into the tank at the same time that is the issue.
It's not the bracket that's the problem. Its fitting them into the tank at the same time that is the issue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nexxxt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could always run a 255 intank and another inline cole, i know fred HPC made over 700whp on that car and went 10.1 @ 149 be4 he sold it....
if anyone can actually manufacture a bracket for two intank pumps that would be great but i dont think anyone has done it yet..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im gonna see how the one in-tank does, if i have any issues up top, i'll add another pump in-line.
if anyone can actually manufacture a bracket for two intank pumps that would be great but i dont think anyone has done it yet..
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Im gonna see how the one in-tank does, if i have any issues up top, i'll add another pump in-line.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nexxxt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could always run a 255 intank and another inline cole, i know fred HPC made over 700whp on that car and went 10.1 @ 149 be4 he sold it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
411 whp off of a 255HP, 10.3@144. Car would dip into the 9's but needs taller slicks.
700 whp and flat 10's is stupid, whatever you do don't pay attention to that guy.
411 whp off of a 255HP, 10.3@144. Car would dip into the 9's but needs taller slicks.
700 whp and flat 10's is stupid, whatever you do don't pay attention to that guy.



