i have a dead d15b2 motor, have been trying everything i could read on here and nothing is working. here is wat i have checked.
1. fuel - got it
2. spark - replace cap, rotor bug, coil. - got spark
3. timing- have set timing several times- won't suck in air from the intake, blowing.
4. ecu- flashes red light once

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks for taking the time to read this

 

are your plug wires on right? Sounds like you have them assbackwards.

 

just checked them, they are all correct.

 

The only reason I could think you have air coming out your intake, is if your timing is way off, or you have your firing order wrong

 

i checked all and they are in the correct order but i did remove the cap and found at tdc my rotor is on 4 not one,......... wrenching......thanks for the help i will let you know if this fixes the prob, i am sure it will,

 

Sounds stupid but make sure your battery terminals are hooked up right. If they are swapped all your stuff will rotate backwards. Also a code 1 on the ecu means the ecu is bad.

 

black 88.. you dont know how many times i could have used that pic.. thanks!


what have you done to your motor recently?? seems that if your motor is blowing out of the intake, then your timing is 180 deg off...


there is also the ever present main relay behind the change tray on the drivers side... but i think that would prevent you from getting fuel...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds stupid but make sure your battery terminals are hooked up right. If they are swapped all your stuff will rotate backwards. Also a code 1 on the ecu means the ecu is bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, Code 1 is O2 sensor. But that is not what he said.

When you start your OBD0 car, look at the ECU. They all flash once.

If the light stays on, that indicates bad ECU.

 

ok i 180'd my rotor bug to get it firing right, now i am getting a code 16? my light flashes once when i turn the battery on, then after i try to start i get 16. no pauses between flashes....

 

code 16 is fuel injectors...... Do you have your injector resistor box plugged in? Are all the connections on your injectors correct?

 

i believe, but am reading to find out how to dbl check.... thanks

 

your resistor box is in the back right of your engine bay. Its just a little rectangle aluminum looking thing with a green and a white plug going to it. Just follow your fender line up to the back right of your engine bay and its right up there. Good luck.

 

i don't think the dx has an injector resistor.

 

the dx does not have the resister box. maybe you switched your 2 injector plugs around?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds stupid but make sure your battery terminals are hooked up right. If they are swapped all your stuff will rotate backwards. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are joking right??? i hope so...

 

well it looks like i need a new motor :-( wats the best bang for the buck for a motor swap? anyone know where to get a complete package?

 

why do you think you need a motor??
and if you do plan on geting one theres tons of places
the most common used one is HMO or password
you can google it just type JDM Engine and you get a
bunch of links so good luck searching

 

thanks.
i did a compression check and i got 80 80 30 0. i just wasn't trying to do a swap right now, was gonna try and get the body ready for paint and my funds are low, so its got to be one or the other for me. i wanted to do a swap eventually but not sure about wat needs to be done or had to make a swap work, :-( i would do a rebuild but i don't think that the motor is worth it, tried looking around at some jy's and no luck for that motor. i have had the car in storage for 2 yrs now this may, always loved the crx and don't wanna part with it. still trying to figure things out,
Thanks again for the info Under Con. Crx

 

b16 swap from HMO. Steve is a good guy to deal with. Only place I will buy a motor.

Check this out for a whole swap.

 

thanks for the link black88si.

i know these compression numbers are bad, but wat would be good numbers?

 

Did you check the compression with the engine warmed up?


Typically you want 150-200 across the board when the engine is warm.

HMO doesn't have the B16 swap, they do have a **** ton of other great swaps. DOHC ZC is a great motor, it pretty much bolts right in.

 

Err.....just realized your car doesn't really warm up.

Try a leakdown test on your engine, it will give you a way better idea of the health of your engine.

This is a great engine. Will mostly bolt right in (you will have to do DPFI to MPFI swap and get an OBD0 - OBD1 conversion harness and ECU)

But you can use your tranny and mostly everything.

D15B


Modified by black88si at 3:22 PM 4/19/2007

 

What would i need to do a swap to a d15b? mine is a dualport.

 

DPFI - MPFI conversion
OBD1 vtec computer
OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness
OBD1 Distributor (will usually come with the motor, but might need replacing)
New clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil pump, tensioner pully and alternator belt.
Misc crap.

 

Which parts do i look for? any d series?