in need of help!
alright so heres the deal on the swap:

the car is a 1990 Si
engine is a freshly rebuilt Z6 with head studs, SRP pistons and Eagle Rods
We used a Rywire OBD1-Vtec Conversion harness
Also using a converted P06 with Vtec, chipped and burned a stock Z6 base map, tuning with Crome
Using a AEM wideband O2 for AFR readouts
converted to a half rad

before start up we cranked the engine in 5 sec intervals for about a minute to circulate the oil throughout. we checked the oil levels to confirmed this had happened.

1st start - its starts up instantly but there is a high and erratic idle
we check for vaccuum leaks there were none except that we had to plug up the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve so we just fed the hose into itself. My friend who is helping me says that we dont need it. Also found out that the fuel pressure regulator was missing an o-ring so we were leaking fuel, but that was fixed.

2nd start - tried it again, and we got the same thing
we fiddled around with some hoses to make sure that they were tight and tried again.

3rd start - same thing happens except now we get 2 codes right off the bat
Code 20 and 21 - vtec and the electrical load
we checked the vtec and it is indeed connected as it is only one wire running from the solenoid directly to the ecu. Vtec was activated when we burned the map.
and the electrical load is something we disconnected, but would that cause the erratic idle???

we havent ran the car for more than 5 seconds for fear of damaging something to my fresh build.

heres a vid of the 2nd Start!
http://s41.photobucket.com/alb...4.flv

it revs up and down between 2-3k. so does anyone have any ideas???

 

Grounds?

Did you bleed your coolant system?

 

yea we checked all the grounds, we grounded the negative battery terminal to the tranny, there are 2 grounds on the valve cover, and i believe there is another one on the thermostat.

we havent bled the system yet cause we havent ran the engine for more than 5 seconds.

 

I would try bleeding the coolant system. Is the Neg battery terminal also grounded to the chassis?

 

no the neg terminal is not grounded to the chassis to the tranny only. we will have to try that.

so even with an idle like that do you think it would be ok to run the engine till it warms up?

 

I think if you ground the neg battery to the chassis as well (the wire should run from terminal, to chassis, then to the tranny), then bleed the coolant system, you will probably be ok to warm it up (might take care of erratic idle)

 

hmmm alright we will have to try running another ground and see what happens....

 

I will help shed some more light on this.

Today we did a large variety of testing still no conclusion.

We know the issue with the coolant, that was my first suggestion, but being a fresh build we didnt want to have it warming up hunting like that as its probably not the best to tell A/F's with.

Today we did the following.

- Blocked the Idle air hole on the throttle body as well as the FITV holes
- Unplugged the IACV and blocked the hole
- Unplugged the brake booster and blocked the hole
- Unplugged the PCV and blocked the hole
- Unplugged the IAT sensor and blocked the hole
- Unplugged and blocked Purge solenoid

With all those plugged it still surged up to 2000ish, when in theory... the motor should have not started at all it should have 0 air intake with those plugged.

- Intake manifold, it has a new hondata gasket, which we double checked torque on and it was good and tight.

- Checked all the injectors they all have o rings and are sealed.

- Checked throttle body, and it has a new gasket and is torqued to spec.

- Checked compression and got 152 - 155 - 140 - 153 its not too bad one ring may not be seated engine is 9:1 SRP pistons

 

I had the same problem with my z6 swap.

I see you are using the obd-1 intake mani, I tried using the obd-1 mani to and had the sane symptoms I had to get a civic/crx si intake.

as soon as I changed the intake promblem went away

 

maybe I missed it..

did you check your throttle cable for slack?

 

I've never had this problem before, and I had a Y8 in my car, and thats obd2.. and I had a Z6 in my old car before that. Maybe when you swapped IM's you fixed your leak as that has to be the only other spot I can imagine, we are going to try that tommorow putting on a stock Im gasket.

Yes we checked for slack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef-hatchcrap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem with my z6 swap.

I see you are using the obd-1 intake mani, I tried using the obd-1 mani to and had the sane symptoms I had to get a civic/crx si intake.

as soon as I changed the intake promblem went away</TD></TR></TABLE>

ummmm... he's running obd1

 

Thats right DAMN IT ALL THAT TYPING!!!

Thats why they call it dope

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ayeso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never had this problem before, and I had a Y8 in my car, and thats obd2.. and I had a Z6 in my old car before that. Maybe when you swapped IM's you fixed your leak as that has to be the only other spot I can imagine, we are going to try that tommorow putting on a stock Im gasket.

Yes we checked for slack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can bleed most of the air out of the system with the motor not running...

you should be able to work out the bugs in the area of the idle with out harming the motor.

I would start it up and use a butane torch around the TB, and intake.. to see if the idle rises.

 

Yeah, there is a bleeder valve on the head, I never bleed my cooling system with the engine on.

 

isnt there a ground for the vtec solenoid??

 

We did get "most" of the air out of the coolant system already, and it still has that high idle, I dont think thats the issue.

We plan to do the propane torch tommorow we just dont want it to run that long as we cant get proper AF's when its doing that so we dont know if its way lean or rich. Will update tommorow after we play around more.

 

ok so we cleared up this mess. turns out there was a leak in the Hondata gasket so we just replaced it with a new stock one. The leak was near the Vtec solenoid.

After we swapped gaskets, we started it up, adjusted the idle and checked the AFR which was reading properly. After letting it warm up I changed the oil.

When I took it out to drive it, the wideband (AEM UEGO) was reading normally for about 10 min, then it started to show a really rich condition hovering around 10-11. So I stopped the car and restarted and it began to read normally again up in the 14's. But again after a while it started to read rich, so I would stop and restart again and everything would be ok.

Even when i have the car in the "ON" position before I restarted, the guage would read about 10-11, which is wierd cause shouldnt it read nothing at all if its not even started and running?

I am running a stock Z6 basemap

oh ya and one more problem.....the shifter was unbelievably hard to get in gear last night, it worked fine at first but after about a half hour of driving, the thing would not budge, it felt like i was gonna snap my shifter off! Only after trying for like a min would it go in 1st gear.
before the swap the thing was hard to move, but now its ridiculous! I think its a B&M, im not sure cause I didnt install it, came with the car when i bought it.

so is it the shifter, linkage, tranny, or the bushings?????