EMERGENCY HELP PLEASE!!!!!
ok so last night i was lowering my ef i did the fronts fine...the rears are a pain in the ***! i snapped both of the lower control arm bolt heads off and i was wondering i anybody knows what to do lol i was going to drill them out but that takes way to long...any suggestions will help me plenty THANX..
which LCA bolts broke and where when you say just the head, actually just the head or a little in? need that infomration then i could advise more...and by which bolts i mean to brake assembly, to bottom of shock tower, or most inner bolt to the frame
the bolt inner to the shock tower like behind the brake drum kinda thing the bolt that holds the control arm in place...as it sits not i have the bushing to move and thats it...its a ******* pain in the ***...
thanx alot for ur help
thanx alot for ur help
would like to know were you can get a new bolt.. or something simillar since i stripped my bolt and i am going to have to cut the welded nut off my shock to install my lowering springs.
thats just what i did lol i have new struts and everything to do so...i just dont no how im goin to get it out...i think im going to have to replace the lower control arm bushings....and i have new bolts and i just need nuts now lol and mine werent welded on they came off.
I had to cut off the welded-on nut from the trailing arm/brake assy.
It's normal, both sides snapped on me, and several people I've spoken to.
You're going to have to replace your bushings as well. The bolt probably isn't stuck in the nut, but rather siezed in the bushing. Summit has the bushings at a reasonable price.
Have fun
Edit: if you're replacing the bolts with hardware-store variety, make sure they're grade 8. I believe that's what came from the factory. Or just go pick yourself up some bolts from the junkyard or the dealer and go to the hardware store and match a nut. Be aware though that hardware store bolts do not have the grooves to hold lube in the bushing and may cause premature failure. I cannot back up this claim though, just something I thought about.
Modified by danmdevries at 7:44 PM 4/16/2007
It's normal, both sides snapped on me, and several people I've spoken to.
You're going to have to replace your bushings as well. The bolt probably isn't stuck in the nut, but rather siezed in the bushing. Summit has the bushings at a reasonable price.
Have fun

Edit: if you're replacing the bolts with hardware-store variety, make sure they're grade 8. I believe that's what came from the factory. Or just go pick yourself up some bolts from the junkyard or the dealer and go to the hardware store and match a nut. Be aware though that hardware store bolts do not have the grooves to hold lube in the bushing and may cause premature failure. I cannot back up this claim though, just something I thought about.
Modified by danmdevries at 7:44 PM 4/16/2007
Trending Topics
crap.. hope mines not stuck in the bushing.. dont feel like replaces a bushings. never thought of just cutting the nut off the new shocks though.. think i'll do that instead of tryign to find the right one that threads in to the shock. isnt there any way of just cuting the nut off and hammering out the bolt with something that fits thru the hole?
thanx for all the help guys...i just want to get fatory bushings...so ill go to a dealer or try the junkyard n see if i can get the bushings out... :D
i just went to home depot and bought the proper size bolt/washer/nut and cut the factory welded nut off and got some aftermarket LCA's.
I always change LCA's when lowering a honda!
I always change LCA's when lowering a honda!
there's too many people that chimed in with their own questions over the OP's thread, turned this thing into a total clusterfuck including some bad information. I'm going to try to make sense of this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ever thought of just cutting the nut off the new shocks though.. think i'll do that instead of tryign to find the right one that threads in to the shock. isnt there any way of just cuting the nut off and hammering out the bolt with something that fits thru the hole?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The thread was about the outer LCA bolt. Sounds like you're talking about the center LCA bolt.
You can not press/hammer out the bolt after it's siezed in the bushing. I tried with four of them. 20 ton ram couldn't push it out even applying heat while pressing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for all the help guys...i just want to get fatory bushings...so ill go to a dealer or try the junkyard n see if i can get the bushings out... :D</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol.... not gonna happen buddy. You can't pull bushings from junkyard pieces, and the factory ones seem to be an even bigger pain in the dick to install than the energy/prothane bushings. I would assume they're more expensive as well, but never looked into it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just went to home depot and bought the proper size bolt/washer/nut and cut the factory welded nut off and got some aftermarket LCA's.
I always change LCA's when lowering a honda! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Entirely not necessary and noncontributive to the OP's question. Aftermarket LCAs are not worth it IMO over poly bushings in Honda LCAs.
Also doesn't sound like you're using the right bolt. On top of the hardness rating and the length of the smooth shaft you must also consider that the factory bolts have grooves in them. I am not a Honda engineer but I would assume that they did this to hold grease around the bolt shaft to keep it lubricated. Over 15+ years, the lube goes dry, the bolt siezes up and you run into this problem.
I am pretty sure the inner LCA bolt is the same as the outer LCA bolt. Inners aren't siezed as frequently as outers, go pull some from the junkyard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you change the lca's? and do you use stock or aftermarket?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's really no reason, the factory pieces are plenty strong enough. EK's on the other hand I can understand replacing. I suppose for a car that sees alot of track time it may be beneficial for the peace of mind, but there are plenty of cars that see plenty of track time rocking stock lcas. If you want to get less flex and strenthen up your rear end, poly bushings do the trick plenty well.
Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ever thought of just cutting the nut off the new shocks though.. think i'll do that instead of tryign to find the right one that threads in to the shock. isnt there any way of just cuting the nut off and hammering out the bolt with something that fits thru the hole?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The thread was about the outer LCA bolt. Sounds like you're talking about the center LCA bolt.
You can not press/hammer out the bolt after it's siezed in the bushing. I tried with four of them. 20 ton ram couldn't push it out even applying heat while pressing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for all the help guys...i just want to get fatory bushings...so ill go to a dealer or try the junkyard n see if i can get the bushings out... :D</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol.... not gonna happen buddy. You can't pull bushings from junkyard pieces, and the factory ones seem to be an even bigger pain in the dick to install than the energy/prothane bushings. I would assume they're more expensive as well, but never looked into it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just went to home depot and bought the proper size bolt/washer/nut and cut the factory welded nut off and got some aftermarket LCA's.
I always change LCA's when lowering a honda! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Entirely not necessary and noncontributive to the OP's question. Aftermarket LCAs are not worth it IMO over poly bushings in Honda LCAs.
Also doesn't sound like you're using the right bolt. On top of the hardness rating and the length of the smooth shaft you must also consider that the factory bolts have grooves in them. I am not a Honda engineer but I would assume that they did this to hold grease around the bolt shaft to keep it lubricated. Over 15+ years, the lube goes dry, the bolt siezes up and you run into this problem.
I am pretty sure the inner LCA bolt is the same as the outer LCA bolt. Inners aren't siezed as frequently as outers, go pull some from the junkyard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you change the lca's? and do you use stock or aftermarket?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's really no reason, the factory pieces are plenty strong enough. EK's on the other hand I can understand replacing. I suppose for a car that sees alot of track time it may be beneficial for the peace of mind, but there are plenty of cars that see plenty of track time rocking stock lcas. If you want to get less flex and strenthen up your rear end, poly bushings do the trick plenty well.
Hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
J.HU3ZO
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
5
Jul 23, 2013 01:11 AM
mikehawkBUiLT
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
15
May 13, 2004 03:17 PM



