Car is civic EG9 -92. So it has ABS.

Im changing -97 JDM ITR brakes wich does not have ABS.

Install was easy. BUT after we bleeded(or what is that right word =D ) the brakes.

Brake pedal goes to down to floor and has very little brake power. But when I press the brakes car shutted off. It doesn't go to floor.

So because it has ABS system. Do i have to bleed something else too than just the brakes?

And yes Im removing the whole ABS system when I do my B18C-R swap in a few weeks.

btw. English is not my main language,


Modified by ej2civic at 11:39 AM 5/17/2007

 

check da booster .....

 

i am having the same problem on mine but i have a 93 w/o abs and using del sol rear disk and del sol mc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rallywiz03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check da booster ..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

What should I check from it?

It has brake fluid

 

brake booster (seals) leaking inside... disconnect master from brake booster look inside for leaks or disconnect vaccum line to booster-- pump brake,check leak...

 

bad brake booster cannot make a pedal "soft", you must have air in the system somewere. Do you have access to a reverse bleader? (pumps the fluid in the bleeder screw)

 

yes , bad brake booster can make a pedal "soft", if the seal in the b booster pop
No pressure No power to move master cylinder move...
making the driver think he as no brakes... that is a fact...
You're right he can have air in the system...
anwser me this why is the car shutting down when applying the brake... But air in the system would not shut down engine..

 

No he said with the car shut off it dosent sink to the floor because there is no vacuum assist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BADHDRIVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brake booster (seals) leaking inside... disconnect master from brake booster look inside for leaks or disconnect vaccum line to booster-- pump brake,check leak...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

But everything worked fine(with the EG9 brakes) before the ITR brakeswap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BADHDRIVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're right he can have air in the system...
anwser me this why is the car shutting down when applying the brake... But air in the system would not shut down engine..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No i did not mean that car shuts down when I push the brakes.

I mena that when the engine is off. The brake pedal does not hit the floor..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad brake booster cannot make a pedal "soft", you must have air in the system somewere. Do you have access to a reverse bleader? (pumps the fluid in the bleeder screw)</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, I don't know where or what is reverse bleeder

 

Still need help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BADHDRIVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes , bad brake booster can make a pedal "soft", if the seal in the b booster pop
No pressure No power to move master cylinder move...
making the driver think he as no brakes... that is a fact...
You're right he can have air in the system...
anwser me this why is the car shutting down when applying the brake... But air in the system would not shut down engine..


</TD></TR></TABLE>

go push your brake pedal with the car off, it will be hard as a rock and high. Same as a fucked up booster(no vacume assist). If the pedal is soft and sinks like this then its not the booster but thanks for the gay *** info.

 

Yep.

I started the B18C-R swap, so im removing the whole ******' useless ABS system

 

You need to swap out the stock booster and master cylinder to the ITR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to swap out the stock booster and master cylinder to the ITR </TD></TR></TABLE>

Soo, You mean FROM the ITR TO EG9?

 

Yes. The itr caliper are larger so it required more presure. Btw, you have to use the integra bolt that connect from the brake line to the master cylinder. You'll have to reflare it. Or you can use 90-93 non-abs integra booster and master cylinder. It bolt right up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej2civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Soo, You mean FROM the ITR TO EG9?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not going to work unless you like to re-bend lines of you have a RHD car. I have a completely useless 1 inch MC out of a 97 ITR because of it. Just know that your pedal travel is going to be considerably futher before you really get a lot of braking power because of a smaller MC, but it shouldn't sink to the floor.

 

First of all.

The ITR MC is 15/16. JUST the same as my EG9 does..

 

Wow... where did you get this information? ITR's have a 1". Too many potheads coming on trying to post on 4.20. If you have the bong in hand wait until tomorrow to try to make an intelligent post.

 

Ricey, I got some custom ss braided lines that go from my prop valve to my mc. I know it's not as easy as maybe buying the 15/16th mc but it cost me less than $50 and I get to rock the 1" MC. For $160 I was able to put ss braided lines at all corners, ss braided lines to the mc, change the prop valve to a 40/40 and put in an ITR 1" MC and BB. The junk yard rules.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NineTwoSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow... where did you get this information? ITR's have a 1". Too many potheads coming on trying to post on 4.20. If you have the bong in hand wait until tomorrow to try to make an intelligent post. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are wrong..

Well, I have eyes. there reads 15/16 on the MC. Notice that it does that the ITR does not have ABS...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej2civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are wrong..

Well, I have eyes. there reads 15/16 on the MC. Notice that it does that the ITR does not have ABS...</TD></TR></TABLE>

some people forget that there is more to the world then just the usa

 

Ok, if you re-read my post and try not to view it as me trying to tell you that you're wrong, maybe you will realize that I'm not saying that there isn't 15/16 MC's on ITR's. I don't know every part available for every car, but I do know that my MC is indeed from an ITR and it is a 1", not a 15/16. Your post I was responding to sounded as if you were saying that ITR's didn't come with 1" MC's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej2civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First of all.

The ITR MC is 15/16. JUST the same as my EG9 does..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just stating that ITR's DID come with 1" MC's.

 

Ok to wake up this thread!

NOW.

I have removed the whole ABS system.

I've swapped every part of the ITR brake system!

Bleeded the brakes 3 times every corner. And no I don't need that reverse bleeder. I've never had a problem bleeding the brakes..

Yes all the brake lines are connected the same way as they were in ITR.

STILL, does not work the way it should


It still does the same thing. When engine is running the pedal feels soft and you can push it pretty easy to floor. But when engine isn't running, the pedal is STIFF!

Althought I am able to lock the tires, when braking example from 100km/h to 0km/h.

I have two other civics that I can compare the pedal feel, and this is way different.

Does it matter if I use DOT 5.1 brakefluid?