alright!
time for homework,,, can make a mistake on this baby, and sure i do need all the help i can get.

I just picked up my full b18c1 hear off 96 gsr. everything stock with 160k on it roughly.

my qustion is which one is better or have any of you have done any of those swaps b4?

if i want a nice, fairly fast (180 - 200 whp) still a bit high raving (love to give it to her) engine,, which is best way to go?

b18c1 rebuild, with gsr internals (maybe eagle rods and balanced crank)?

b20 with eagle rods and balance crank? (how easy and reliable is that)

b18b balanced crank and b18 internals?

or any other suggestion, am tryin to keep it with low expences.

which one and why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by night walker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c1 rebuild, with gsr internals (maybe eagle rods and balanced crank)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that one

 

go with the geezer motor. make sure you get upgraded valvetrain installed in your head if you are going to be revving the **** out of it or all that money on your rebuild will go right down the drain when you drop a valve.

 

GEEZER? lol am kindda starting on this, i take it you mean the b20 right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by night walker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GEEZER? lol am kindda starting on this, i take it you mean the b20 right?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


"Geezer" = Gsr


Build up the Gsr, it was Meant for higher revs, so you'll have a better platform to build upon.

Sure you can build an ls/vtec to rev high, but you'll spend just as much, or More money to do so,
when you could just build up the gsr motor, and not worry about if it will have problems revving that high.

 

now can i use a ls block, with gsr crank and eagle rods (gsr) and pistons?
is the ls block, just the block and gsr, are they different?
(((it's easyer to find a ls block)))

 

I'm not an expert or anything, but if your gonna rebuild the motor, I'd use the LS block since it's cheap, put in all forged internals, put on the vtec head, and you have a strong motor that, A. Will cost you about the same as to rebuild the gsr, but you paid less for the block. B. Make more torque than the gsr and as much HP as the gsr, C. Will last forever since your only taking that motor to 200whp. D. If you ever decide to boost it, you can take it up in the 400-500 whp range. That's my thought, but as I said, I'm not an expert so take my advice witha grain of salt.

 

Ls block ,ls crank,eagle rods ,high compression pistons, drop a vtec head with CTR cams tune it..make it safe high rev ls vtec and you may go over the 180 whp so do the math and its cheaper than all other you have on your list

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


"Geezer" = Gsr
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always called it the Jizzer.

 

LS Crank in a GSR block with a VTEC head...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kinick313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I always called it the Jizzer.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Either or, some people say different things, but he def didn't mean b20.

 

nice,,, good idea

is the crank on ls block stronger?
and whats the difference between a LS block and gsr block?

 

all honda cranks are forged and very strong. they are not a weak link.

a gsr block has better reiforcement webbing on the exterior, oil squirters, and a 3 main girdle.

 

what if the block have lots of Ks on it?
or how many K on the block,,, still ok to use it for this project?

 

if the block has lots of miles on it the only thing i would really worry about is if the cylinders are still in good shape. a slight overbore and hone may be required to clean them up. this is assuming it's never spun a bearing either.

 

if you want reliable and quick, find a bare gsr shortblock and drop jdm itr pistons in it, then build the head. LS-VTEC=too much work for sacrifice in reliability

 

???
if i buy a block rip it apart, is it easy to tell if it's spun bearing?
can i get gsr block, ls crank? would that make more power?
(((+ eagle rods and maybe pistons))) just incase i want to go FI later on???

 

the LS crank and rods will make more power but in gaining that you sacrifice RPM range. the LS internals were designed for a 7k redline while GSR is built for 8100. honda changed the rod/stroke ratio for a reason. use GSR internals if you want an all motor beast. if you plan on going turbo in the future replace the internals with forged and put new bearings in

 

like i said... go with the geezer.. if money is an issue then go b20vtec. its the cheapest way to make power, but its not an ideal setup. You should also into euro R motors. (do your own research don't ask a bunch of questions on here). I still think euro R swaps are the best bang for your buck in the honda world

 

i love that about gsr that how it can rav so high, so i probebely try to stay with gsr internals but do forge piston and eagle rods etc with gsr crank... balance it too.
my qustion is, if i go with that set up, would i be able to pump 9 psi with superchanrger in that?

if not that,,, what do i need to build on the head that i can't do when i put the head on the block?

retainers? and springs? etc?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamikaze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS Crank in a GSR block with a VTEC head... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.

 

if i go ls crank, i need ls rods too? what about pistons? are the same for gsr and ls?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by night walker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i go ls crank, i need ls rods too? what about pistons? are the same for gsr and ls?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes and yes

 

HEY THIS IS WHAT YOU DO. GO LS BLOCK CUZ ITS CHEEP!!!! CRANCK IS GOOD JUST STRESS RELEIVE THE CRANK, RODS ARE GOOD ALSO SHOTPEEN THEM ARP BOLTS SO THEY HOLD ON. IF BLOCK HAS ALOT OF MILES THEN YOU SHOULD CHANGE CRANCK BEARINGS. ADD A ITR BLOCK GURTTLE FOR HIGH REV STABILITY. GET HIGH COMPRESSION PISTON ITR HAS 10.98:1 I HAVE 12.1:1


AS FOR YOUR HEAD B16 GSR ITR ARE THE SAME CAST B16/GSR HAVE DUEL SPRINGS ON INTAKE SIDE WITH NO PORT JOB. THE ITR HAS DUEL SPRINGS ON BOTH SIDES AND ALSO A PORT JOB ON BOTH AS WELL. NOW THE CAMS FORGET THE ITR CAMS USE THAT MONEY TOWARD YOUR NEW SET OF STAGE 2'S OH YEA GET THAT LSD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CompleteSR06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HEY THIS IS WHAT YOU DO. GO LS BLOCK CUZ ITS CHEEP!!!! CRANCK IS GOOD JUST STRESS RELEIVE THE CRANK, RODS ARE GOOD ALSO SHOTPEEN THEM ARP BOLTS SO THEY HOLD ON. IF BLOCK HAS ALOT OF MILES THEN YOU SHOULD CHANGE CRANCK BEARINGS. ADD A ITR BLOCK GURTTLE FOR HIGH REV STABILITY. GET HIGH COMPRESSION PISTON ITR HAS 10.98:1 I HAVE 12.1:1


AS FOR YOUR HEAD B16 GSR ITR ARE THE SAME CAST B16/GSR HAVE DUEL SPRINGS ON INTAKE SIDE WITH NO PORT JOB. THE ITR HAS DUEL SPRINGS ON BOTH SIDES AND ALSO A PORT JOB ON BOTH AS WELL. NOW THE CAMS FORGET THE ITR CAMS USE THAT MONEY TOWARD YOUR NEW SET OF STAGE 2'S OH YEA GET THAT LSD</TD></TR></TABLE>

w....t......f....?