How Low?
Hey I've got a '98 4-door Accord. I was thinking about buying some Eibach Sportlines which would lower it around 2". If I lower it 2" will it eat up tires? Will I need a camber kit? Also, how low can I go without it eating up tires and needing a camber kit.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Do you think that it will still eat up tires if I only lower it 1.5"? I want to lower it, but I have a long commute to work so I dont want to be buying tires all the time haha.
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
Sorry, I'm a noob...
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
Sorry, I'm a noob...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineNeutralDrop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically any springs that you get will not ride very well unless you get some good struts to compliment them.
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically any springs that you get will not ride very well unless you get some good struts to compliment them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say the MAX of lowering without having horrible tire wear is about 2" make sure you get an alignment asap after lowering it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is just totally inaccurate information.
With a proper alignment, and possibly a camber kit, a 3"+ drop can be achieved.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineNeutralDrop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think that it will still eat up tires if I only lower it 1.5"? I want to lower it, but I have a long commute to work so I dont want to be buying tires all the time haha.
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
Sorry, I'm a noob... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eibach. Pair it with a good strut (KYB, Koni...)
This is just totally inaccurate information.
With a proper alignment, and possibly a camber kit, a 3"+ drop can be achieved.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineNeutralDrop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think that it will still eat up tires if I only lower it 1.5"? I want to lower it, but I have a long commute to work so I dont want to be buying tires all the time haha.
Do you recommend any particular springs that would ride better than others?
Sorry, I'm a noob... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eibach. Pair it with a good strut (KYB, Koni...)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hurleyint »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is just totally inaccurate information.
With a proper alignment, and possibly a camber kit, a 3"+ drop can be achieved.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It looked to me like he was referring to dropping the car without using a camber kit there.
OP - getting a camber kit on a 2" drop is a good idea, it's only going to help your tires last longer. I'd put one on with any drop, you only have to install it once and it'll last for as many tires as you can burn through.
This is just totally inaccurate information.
With a proper alignment, and possibly a camber kit, a 3"+ drop can be achieved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It looked to me like he was referring to dropping the car without using a camber kit there.
OP - getting a camber kit on a 2" drop is a good idea, it's only going to help your tires last longer. I'd put one on with any drop, you only have to install it once and it'll last for as many tires as you can burn through.
best bet is to probably buy one online. I found eibach for about 130 shipped; if you like ebay parts on your car I'm sure you can get one for half that.
I have no idea. From looking at it, it doesn't seem like there's really that many ways that it could fail. But if you can get eibach for wholesale, a) hook me up, and b) I would go with that, since it will retain some value if you ever want to take it off and sell it. Used ebay kit = garbage
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineNeutralDrop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt he'd let me get 'em for wholesale for yall since he wouldn't be making any $$ off of them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly... consider yourself fortunate that he is helping you out. Don't bother with comments like. People are always looking for free/discounted parts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Exactly... consider yourself fortunate that he is helping you out. Don't bother with comments like. People are always looking for free/discounted parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gee You Knit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Exactly... consider yourself fortunate that he is helping you out. Don't bother with comments like. People are always looking for free/discounted parts. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're trying to tell me that you wouldn't buy parts from someone online if they had a hookup to get them wholesale?
Exactly... consider yourself fortunate that he is helping you out. Don't bother with comments like. People are always looking for free/discounted parts. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're trying to tell me that you wouldn't buy parts from someone online if they had a hookup to get them wholesale?
Ok look for my post in the lower part of this recent thread, and read. Again Two postings requiring the same info in the same day is getting out of hand.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1951600
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1951600
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...make sure you get an alignment asap after lowering it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is innaccurate. Depending on the quality of the springs (all springs sag, btw) you want to give it two weeks to settle in properly before aligning the car. If you realign it right after and it settles, the alignment will no longer be accurate (to a degree).
Give it a week or two then align it.
Back on topic, I'm getting Eibach ProKit w/ Tokico Blues all around on the wife's 98 EX-L 4 banger sedan.....
That is innaccurate. Depending on the quality of the springs (all springs sag, btw) you want to give it two weeks to settle in properly before aligning the car. If you realign it right after and it settles, the alignment will no longer be accurate (to a degree).
Give it a week or two then align it.
Back on topic, I'm getting Eibach ProKit w/ Tokico Blues all around on the wife's 98 EX-L 4 banger sedan.....
i have limited camber wear on sportlines after ~9,000 miles (i dont rotate my tires...they are yokohoma avid's tourers, so if you know tires you know why
)
you wont have bad wear and you dont need to wait more than 3-4 days.
)you wont have bad wear and you dont need to wait more than 3-4 days.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...dont need to wait more than 3-4 days.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hrrm....I was told that by my instructor at school, who's been teaching for a few years and does stock car racing....
Hrrm....I was told that by my instructor at school, who's been teaching for a few years and does stock car racing....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MestizoRacer310 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hrrm....I was told that by my instructor at school, who's been teaching for a few years and does stock car racing....</TD></TR></TABLE>
take a calc based newtonian physics course. even at that high of a spring rate the springs dont take that long to "settle." yes they will sag eventually, as all springs do, but the difference between 4 days and 14 days is none.
theres a reason why when people get shocks/springs replaced with OEM stuff the alignment is dont right away. Think about it. new spring vs. old spring really wont matter in terms of "settleing", so any time you remove a coilover from the chassis you would have to wait for it to resettle. hell, by that logic anytime you took the wheels off the ground and let the suspension sag you would have to let it reset before woring about an alignment -that includes letting the suspension sag at the alignment shop as well. so by that theory there is never a proper time to align.
take a calc based newtonian physics course. even at that high of a spring rate the springs dont take that long to "settle." yes they will sag eventually, as all springs do, but the difference between 4 days and 14 days is none.
theres a reason why when people get shocks/springs replaced with OEM stuff the alignment is dont right away. Think about it. new spring vs. old spring really wont matter in terms of "settleing", so any time you remove a coilover from the chassis you would have to wait for it to resettle. hell, by that logic anytime you took the wheels off the ground and let the suspension sag you would have to let it reset before woring about an alignment -that includes letting the suspension sag at the alignment shop as well. so by that theory there is never a proper time to align.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
take a calc based newtonian physics course. even at that high of a spring rate the springs dont take that long to "settle." yes they will sag eventually, as all springs do, but the difference between 4 days and 14 days is none.
theres a reason why when people get shocks/springs replaced with OEM stuff the alignment is dont right away. Think about it. new spring vs. old spring really wont matter in terms of "settleing", so any time you remove a coilover from the chassis you would have to wait for it to resettle. hell, by that logic anytime you took the wheels off the ground and let the suspension sag you would have to let it reset before woring about an alignment -that includes letting the suspension sag at the alignment shop as well. so by that theory there is never a proper time to align.</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless they left it on the lift for a couple days haha
koni yellows and GCsleeve-overs which use eibachs's
take a calc based newtonian physics course. even at that high of a spring rate the springs dont take that long to "settle." yes they will sag eventually, as all springs do, but the difference between 4 days and 14 days is none.
theres a reason why when people get shocks/springs replaced with OEM stuff the alignment is dont right away. Think about it. new spring vs. old spring really wont matter in terms of "settleing", so any time you remove a coilover from the chassis you would have to wait for it to resettle. hell, by that logic anytime you took the wheels off the ground and let the suspension sag you would have to let it reset before woring about an alignment -that includes letting the suspension sag at the alignment shop as well. so by that theory there is never a proper time to align.</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless they left it on the lift for a couple days haha
koni yellows and GCsleeve-overs which use eibachs's
Mines lowered like 2 to 2.5 inches ( heavy stereo in the back ). Just get an alignment, no camber kit is really needed. Doesnt wear the tires that much more noticably faster than before. Of course my low pros burn faster than stock tires, and i got the car lwoered when i got my 17's put it on.
I'll be honest... I jus got done with all this crap... lol I lowered my 98 accord... about 1.5 - 2 inches and it ate my tires within a month... I needed new tires... I paided for new tires twice... then I decided to put my camber kit on n get it allined n it's all good now... no uneven tire wear err ne thing... it rides nice again... I'd say be safe get a camber kit, get shocks on n alline the beast n call it a day...




maybe make a little honey for yourself