I've taken all of the bolts out, but now my header downpipe is in the way so i don't have enough room to wiggle the old pan out. the bolts on it (the downpipe) are rusted just a bit too much. suggestions?

 

pb blaster.
works great, ive used it alot.

 

try to unhook the rest of the exhaust (cat-back) from the rubber mounts. you should be able to get enough room to pull the pan out. That might be the easiest way i can think of. If that doesnt work you might have to resort to loosing up the bolts that you say are too rusty. If anything go out and get yourself a can of PB blaster and spray all the nuts and bolts you want to take off. Let them soak in PB over night and you shouldnt have too much of a problem breaking the nuts loose off the header.

^^^^^lol somebody posted this idea before i had a chance to answer! NICE!

 

haha sorry.
but that stuff is grade A
hasnt failed me yet!

 

i just decided to order new headers..heh


Modified by oem_certified_accord at 8:25 PM 4/9/2007

 

If the PB doest work use heat. ie. propane torch. Heat is the BEST way to loosen stuck bolts/nuts. And use the boxed end so you dont strip the head off. I agree with accordcd_7 about just diconnecting the rest of your exhaust for more room.

-Eric

-Eric

 

i took it off from headers but u will need to take off from pipe 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordcd_7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try to unhook the rest of the exhaust (cat-back) from the rubber mounts. you should be able to get enough room to pull the pan out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

um, no. That won't work. You have to drop the downpipe. If you simply unhook the rest of the exhaust from the hangers it's not going to give you any extra room where you need it with the downpipe still in place.

Here's a post I made in another thread a while ago about replacing the oil pan gasket.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need to remove the splash shield.

Then unbolt the downpipe from the header, unbolt the brace holding the downpipe to the block, remove the exhaust hangers from near the PS rack, this will allow you do drop the downpipe out of the way to get a better view of what your doing. Plus it makes it nice when your putting the oil pan back up there.

You'll also need to remove the center beam of the from subframe.

There is a plate at the bottom/side of the tranny, you'll need to remove that to get to a couple of the nuts on the oil pan.

Then you should be able to just unbolt the nuts/bolts and remove the oil pan.

Make sure you clean both surfaces real good before installing the gasket.

Use some Hondabond around the half circle on the oil pan.

When reinstalling, put the 6 nuts finger tight first to hold the oil pan up, then install all the nuts and bolts starting from the middle of the oil pan going around in a clockwise rotation. Tighten the nuts and bolts in three steps, gradually working up to 10lb-ft. Do not over tighten as that can cause distortion of the gasket and cause leaking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

end result: i cut the downpipe off the header and mig welded it back together. runs fine

 

umm... ok why? Thats more work than you needed to go through. But I guess whatever works for you, definitely not the way I would have done it though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm... ok why? .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because using sawzalls is fun . I know exhaust bolts can be rusted in there good, but if you use penetrating oil and impact tools you should have been able to get it disconnected relatively easily.

 

no impact tools for me... PB Blaster, a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and long extension has worked every time for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no impact tools for me... PB Blaster, a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and long extension has worked every time for me </TD></TR></TABLE>
To each their own. I like using air tools for quick disassembly, but in some cases you can torque harder with hand tools. Like using a 12' breaker bar to get the crank pulley loose.

Well it looks like this thread is nearly over.