I know people lower their cars regularly - so you quick thoughts are appreciated

is it better to replace the control arm all together - like this one
http://www.motorenergy.com/ima...o.jpg

or would these camber kits work fine to correct the camber on a lowered ride?
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/str...t.jpg

thanks

 

I have owned both and the ones in your second picture are junk. On all my cars ive been using the skunk2 or knockoff front upper control arms and also the rear ones which kind of look like the pieces on the bottom in your second picture.

 

Get the full arm.

My car is SLAMMED and I had the "snail style" (2nd link) front camber kit...and I had to raise it to get the control arms to clear (it makes them hang out the extra space to allign it).

Needless to say that went well for oh...40 mins then I had some nice new Skynk2 arms on the way.

Love them.

 

I agree with James, pay for something more of a higher quality and reputable company. Just do some research first (best bet is the suspension forum) and figure out whats best for you. Hope that helped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the full arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ok - so everyone seems to agree then :-} The full arm is the way to go.

Does anyone know - is there a realistic difference between these:
Skunk2 arm
http://i6.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/88/74/d4_1_b.JPG

and others - like TSUDO?
http://i18.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/97/60/34a0_1_b.JPG

or SR-S
http://i3.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/96/bd/88f7_1_b.JPG

or RHINO
http://i77.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

Thanks much


p.s. is there a brand that works really well for the back also?

 

I'm just wondering - if the Full Control Arm is the way to go - where does the Ball Joint camber kit come in?

http://b.im.craigslist.org/Ca/...l.jpg

Can these two be combined or are they mutually exclusive towards the same goal (adjusting the camber).

Thank you.

 

They go for the same goal...thats why they are CAMBER kits.

LoL.

PLEASE don't get the ball style...just grab an arm and call it a day.

 

I was thinking of going for the full control arm also.
Thanks fror the input.

Any idea about the brands - which one is better? I guess i'm looking for realistic differences that would justify the price difference.

Thanks again

 

I've heard that the bolts that come in the skunk2's are ****,
so just replace those allenkey/hex ones with normal bolts the same thread size.

Also, skunk2, and omni are pretty much the same thing,
if you can't find one of them cheap enough, maybe a tsudo?

 

i just got the full ingals camber kit and let me tell you it's quality i love it fixed my camber right up i recomend it for sure over all the others

 

Can you send me a link to view these when you get a chance? Or maybe a picture of these somewhere?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamescb77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just got the full ingals camber kit and let me tell you it's quality i love it fixed my camber right up i recomend it for sure over all the others</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are these the snail style (2nd link at the top - the 1st post) or the full control arm. Most Ingals show up on eBay as snail style even though i found one that wasn't.

Do yours look like this:
http://images.andale.com/f2/10...0.jpg

Thanks

 

yes mine look just like that pic you just posted i got them from ebay from a company can't really remember where but the company was great free shipping and all that nonsense

 

Honestly, I would avoid any type of fromt camber adjustment with a lowered Integra. Our cars don't have much front suspension travel stock, lowering them reduces this further, as do replacement UCAs with camber adjustment. Combine both a lowering with a camber kit, and its a recipe for running out of suspension travel.

For reference, I ran lowered to flushed tires on 400 front springs, only bottomed out once at that height, and only had -2.4* of camber. After installing SPC UCAs for camber adjustment, I had to raise the car up to a 2 finger gap to avoid bottoming out on the same roads I could previously drive on without issue. The only reason I'm keeping the UCAs in there, is because I wanted more than -2.4* of camber.

So, I recommend keeping the stock arms in place, and only replacing if you need camber adjustment to get more negative camber for race purposes. For a street car, lower it to your desired height, and enjoy the added cornering grip that the camber gives you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, I would avoid any type of fromt camber adjustment with a lowered Integra. Our cars don't have much front suspension travel stock, lowering them reduces this further, as do replacement UCAs with camber adjustment. Combine both a lowering with a camber kit, and its a recipe for running out of suspension travel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true, but the reason for it is the angle of the tire in the fenderwell. It is a trade off, uneven tire wear or slightly less suspension travel.

I have had the ingalls bushing style camber kit that replaces the two bolts on the upper control arm for 5 years. No issues.
I also have the ingalls rear camber kit which is pretty straight up as well.
I have never had issues with my camber kit, just get it aligned as soon as it is installed!!!
I guess it all depends on how low you want to go.
I have had h&r 1.75f/1.5r and eibach 1.3" pro-kit on my 98gsr and have never had a problem with the camber kit. The reason for switching lowering kits was the width of the 18" rims I used to run.

 

Did you say yours are indeed full control arm replacements? I posted so many links, i'm trying to make sure you're referring to a full control arm replacement.

If this is not the case - could you let me know?
How long has it been since you installed your kit?

If you could dig up that company you bought the kit from, i'd sure like to take a peak at what they have to offer.

Thanks

 

Do you happen to have any pictures of the kit you put on your ride?

Or maybe do you know where you got it from. I just want to check them out and see what they've got.

Thanks.

 

I used Tirerack.com


Front Fitment
Note: Camber adjust +1 1/4° to +3°
Front fitment. Polyurethane bushings.
$68.00/each
68 x2=136 for the front set


Rear Fitment
Note: Camber adjust: -2° to +3°
Rear fitment. Polyurethane bushings.
56/each
56x2=112 for the rear set

$136+$112=$248+shipping and tax if applicable.

 

Do you happen to have any pictures of the kit you put on your ride?

Or maybe do you know where you got it from. I just want to check them out and see what they've got.

Thanks.

 

YEa, i agree with control arms you have better feel for the car and also your tires would last longer. The only reason i got them! I've gotten the skunk2 version because the work well. hope this helps .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stefanne3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you happen to have any pictures of the kit you put on your ride?

Or maybe do you know where you got it from. I just want to check them out and see what they've got.

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless you want to see it on 18" wheels like here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is true, but the reason for it is the angle of the tire in the fenderwell. It is a trade off, uneven tire wear or slightly less suspension travel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Camber does not cause uneven tire wear.

I daily drive my 00 GSR with -4.0* of front camber. Granted I've only had this alignment and tires for 1 year, you'd think I would have seen this supposed "camber wear" by now. I measures my tread depth a few weeks ago, and had the most tread near the inside sidewall, with the thinnest section on outside sidewall. I also rotate monthly (swapping to autocross tires at events and back), and run the factory specified rear toe in. I firmly believe that the rear toe in is the cause of the uneven tire wear, and it is obviously wearing the outside faster than this massive camber setting is wearing the inside shoulder.

My weekend car, a 1979 Triumph Spitfire, came from the factory sporting -3.75* of rear camber. Its got a sagging rear spring, and has had -4.75* of rear camber for the last 13 years that I have owned it. I've also never had tire wear issues after getting a crazy amount of shims and setting the toe correctly. So, 0 toe all around, and -4.75* of rear camber (the drive wheels no less) won't wear tires.

So, 13 years of driving around cars with insane camber settings, and never a need to buy tires at shorter than normal intervals, or seeing any sign of uneven wear. Can anyone else see why I think camber kits sold for street cars are a waste of money?

So, I'll repeat myself.
Camber does not cause uneven tire wear.

 

I have two friends with lowered preludes that have had an alignment to adjust the toe as much as stock allows. The inner portion of the tread wears prematturely. That is why I would get a camber kit to correct this and not run more then one degree of negative camber unless the car is used for road racing.

To each his own, right?

 

I'm rocking the ingalls camber kit, not the entire control arm but the snail ones, as well as the rear kit, I have not had any problems bottoming out, I'm about a 1 finger gap from the tire to the fender, I'm running 205/45/16 size tires. If you don't want to spend the money on the rear, just shim the stock "camber" arm with washers and a longer bolt, I helped a friend do it on his db2, worked just fine. I bought mine from inlinefour.com don't remember how much it was about a year ago though.