hey
would 17" rims on a ek civic slow it down or wouldnt effect it or what cause i heard people say that rims slow cars down but idn so let me know and is that a good size 4 a ek hatch

 

17s would look ridiculous on a hatchbox, IMO. Unless you're on the East coast, USA...then everyone seems to think they look just fine. Heavier wheels will slow down the car greatly. Rotating mass has a huge affect on going fast. But hatchboxes are allready slow.

Unless you're dropping some coin on forged 17'' wheels, you're looking at a MUCH MUCH heavier wheel and tire combo than your stock 14'' steelies. Anyway, here's mine on 15s. I ***** out this car so much because i miss it





In the end, my lesson to you is that 15s look way better. Plus a 15'' wheel of the same construction will be lighter than a 17'' wheel of the same construction.

 

iv got 15s on it now but theyare like bobjane rims so they are in good condition but ugly

 

17" rims look good as long as the color goes with the car.
and if you go that large your asking for a 1.5- 2" drop so it doesnt sit as high as a truck.

 

im thinkin maybe 16s now and drop it 2" if i can cause the rims i want only come in 16s and 17s

 

i got 17's with a inch n a half or so drop... looks ok.. but it threw my speedo off by 10 mph.. so says 80 but im goin 70 lol

 

could u show me a photo

 

Here is my hatch on 17" Work Jwings, and 205-40-17 tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Unless you're dropping some coin on forged 17'' wheels, you're looking at a MUCH MUCH heavier wheel and tire combo than your stock 14'' steelies.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is not true. There are MANY inexpensive light weight wheels out there. If the OP likes 17's, then go for it. There will not be a night an day difference on a very mildly modded street car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is not true. There are MANY inexpensive light weight wheels out there. If the OP likes 17's, then go for it. There will not be a night an day difference on a very mildly modded street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Inexpensive light 17s?? I guess if we're talking in relative terms. Enkei makes those RPF1s or the RPMs. But like I said 15'' wheels of the same construction will be ligher than 17'' wheels of the same construction. Compare a 17'' RPFI with a 15'' RPFI. The laws of physics and common sense say that the 15s will be lighter. Rotating weight can make a huge difference on ANY car. The OP was asking for opinions on 17s and asking about the weight difference, etc. I gave him facts and opinions, just like he requested:

IMO, they dont look good.

As a fact, they will slow the car down, and are heavier.

 

Ofcourse a 15" wheel is lighter than a 17" wheel, when all things are equal. The ~3lb difference between the 2 means nothing on a street car.

 

The guy from Williamsburg Mi can run 17 and lo-pros because he doesn't have to worry about potholes ( I used to live there) if you live in a city...get bend proof rims or you are wasting your money....my 17s were fine around TC, but when I moved back to NY they lasted less than 400 miles......anyone looking for 205/40/17....almost brand new

 

3lb of ROTATING weight? Thats a difference for sure. on any car. Cmon you're gonna tell me that it affects fast cars more than slow cars? It's the same affect. If anything, wouldnt it be MORE noticeable on a D series hatchbox (slower car)?

Take this example:

400hp race car. 3lb rotating mass difference. You might lose THE EQUIVALENT of 5-6 hp or more. There will be a difference...but you've got freaking 400hp.

106hp D16y7...which equates to about 500 squirrel power. If you lost even 5 hp...thats huge.

Thats my logic.

 

I don't need your little physics lession, as I understand how this works. On a street car the point is moot. Yes, there will be a noticable difference, but it won't be like towing a 1,000lb anchor behind you. Stop trying to turn this into a pissing match... you're obviously smarter than me, and at this point I'll gracefully bow out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't need your little physics lession, as I understand how this works. On a street car the point is moot. Yes, there will be a noticable difference, but it won't be like towing a 1,000lb anchor behind you. Stop trying to turn this into a pissing match... you're obviously smarter than me, and at this point I'll gracefully bow out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol not sure why you got mad. I wasnt trying to talk down to you or anything. I kinda see your point as being that a street car isnt a race car...so times and power output dont matter as much. I can respect that, but the OP asked if they'd be heavier and make his car slower. The answer is yes...and it will be noticeable since his car is allready under powered (assuming its a D series). I dont understand what you mean by "pissing match". I'm backing up my opinions with facts, thats all.

 

Do what you like, who cares what others think, if they got something to say bout wat you like they got there own issues. By the way some 17's looks hot on coupes and tegras.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h8ted ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do what you like, who cares what others think, if they got something to say bout wat you like they got there own issues. By the way some 17's looks hot on coupes and tegras. </TD></TR></TABLE> x2

I rock 14's lol. HX's FTW!

 

dont get 17's at least take it down a notch to 16's.

17's are wayyy to big, and look terrible

 

nice, i like it.

 

15's slammed look the best on them 16's work as well though with the right wheel

 

my EK also is on 17". it needs to bee droped a little, but not much becouse the roads in my country are terrible for low cars

 

if ur driving down the street your not checking how fast u are stoplight to stop light<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3lb of ROTATING weight? Thats a difference for sure. on any car. Cmon you're gonna tell me that it affects fast cars more than slow cars? It's the same affect. If anything, wouldnt it be MORE noticeable on a D series hatchbox (slower car)?

Take this example:

400hp race car. 3lb rotating mass difference. You might lose THE EQUIVALENT of 5-6 hp or more. There will be a difference...but you've got freaking 400hp.

106hp D16y7...which equates to about 500 squirrel power. If you lost even 5 hp...thats huge.

Thats my logic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
okay he is saying in a DD car u wont notice it .
i didnt notice a damn thing in my 96 d16y7 hatch when i had 17's only on the freeway when i was trying to drive over a hunded but it still hit 120 but just slower.
now on a 400hp drag car yes it will make a diffrence a noticable diffrence cause ur timing ur car.
if ur care is a DD your are DD your car. your not checking how fast your going stoplight to stoplight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theb18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if ur driving down the street your not checking how fast u are stoplight to stop light
okay he is saying in a DD car u wont notice it .
i didnt notice a damn thing in my 96 d16y7 hatch when i had 17's only on the freeway when i was trying to drive over a hunded but it still hit 120 but just slower.
now on a 400hp drag car yes it will make a diffrence a noticable diffrence cause ur timing ur car.
if ur care is a DD your are DD your car. your not checking how fast your going stoplight to stoplight</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know....i allready said i got that point that you're not timing your DD.

But now lets go to your statement: "I didnt notice a damn thing in my 96 D16Y7 hatch when i had 17's only on the freeway when i was trying to drive over a hundred but it still hit 120 but just slower." That doesnt make sense. First you said you did'nt notice...then you said you did notice it was slower. which one was it?

My point was that from a 400hp car, if your wheel/tire combo weighs about 1.5-2lbs more, , it take away THE EQUIVALENT of 5-6hp (it will be more if the wheel weighs 3lbs more, BTW). Thats about 1.25-1.5% of your power. You wont notice UNLESS its a race car...and you're timing it.

If you have a 106hp car, and take away 5-6hp, you're talking 4-5%. You will notice your 4-5% loss on an allready underpowered car NO MATTER what situation you are in. DD or if you're timing your 19 second quarter mile run. To make it worse, USDM D16Y7s have ridiculously high gearing.

I mean its not a big deal either way, but if you're going to argue that you're not going to notice, and then in the same sentence, say that you ARE going to notice...that doesnt make any sense.

 

I had some 17's on the N1N3-S1X



Dump'd on lowering springs about 2.5 inches

 

Has anyone forgotten that tires have weight too? A 17" wheel with a 35 profile tire verse a 14" steelie with a 65 profile tire....if that 17" is forged and lightweight, your loosing unspruing and rotational mass, not to mention the added benefit of a super stiff sidewall and usually an ultra high performance tire, giving much better cornering.

Downfall: ROAD NOISE out the ***!!!