OBD1 ECU car runs great, back to the OBD2 ECU and car is throwing codes and running like s*^t.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA, Cumberland
My car is stalling at every stop once the car reaches operating temperature and throw miss fire codes on all 4 cylinders. Yesterday I put in my friends OBD1 ECU with H22A base map and the car ran great. Unfortunately I had to put the OBD2 ECU back in the car and it running like **** and throwing codes. I can not get the car inspected because when I take it in the ECU is saying that the car is not ready for testing because all the cycles are not complete.
lets get some things out of th way:
1. do you have the right obd2 ecu? are you sure its a 97-98 prelude ecu?
2. is your car stock or heavily modded?
3. was it a gradual problem or did it happen over night?
4. you have checked all the electrical wiring and sensors?
just trying to narrow it down before i start giving suggestions.
1. do you have the right obd2 ecu? are you sure its a 97-98 prelude ecu?
2. is your car stock or heavily modded?
3. was it a gradual problem or did it happen over night?
4. you have checked all the electrical wiring and sensors?
just trying to narrow it down before i start giving suggestions.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 684
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA, Cumberland
What ECU should it be?
The Car is modified because it is a H22A, with a OBD1 ECU and the cranksensor has been rerouted to the OBD1 distributor. Other than that, Cold Air Intake and catback exhaust.
This is gradual, and F.Y.I, this swap was done because the old H22A4 was blown when I purchased the car.
The Car is modified because it is a H22A, with a OBD1 ECU and the cranksensor has been rerouted to the OBD1 distributor. Other than that, Cold Air Intake and catback exhaust.
This is gradual, and F.Y.I, this swap was done because the old H22A4 was blown when I purchased the car.
I don't know if this will work, because since your car is misfiring (if it indeed is) it may be running too lean to pass a smog test, but I am an inspector so this is what I would try...
Find the fuse that powers the OBD connector and take it out. The inspector SHOULD run it on the dyno as an alternate way of testing emissions. Hope this helps.
Find the fuse that powers the OBD connector and take it out. The inspector SHOULD run it on the dyno as an alternate way of testing emissions. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA, Cumberland
Actually Cylinder 1 is the only one running lean.
The ECU and All the emissions parts are still OBD2 because I need to pass inspections before I can go OBD1.
The ECU and All the emissions parts are still OBD2 because I need to pass inspections before I can go OBD1.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsburg, PA, Cumberland
Actually Cylinder 1 is the only one running lean.
The ECU and All the emissions parts are still OBD2 because I need to pass inspections before I can go OBD1.
The ECU and All the emissions parts are still OBD2 because I need to pass inspections before I can go OBD1.
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