In the process of replacing my clutch, (because of having to remove the tranny twice) the nut on the passenger side axle, holding it completly to the hub is stripped both ways. Its an 88 crx HF model with an 89 tranny bolted to a DOHC ZC, I tried the 88 1.6 L axle but the spline shaft didn't fit, should i try a 1.5 L axle or is there even a difference? any other suggestions for an axle?

 

you prob. have 23 spline hubs and the 1.6/si axle is 26 spline. i had to use the standard hatch axles for mine for the same reason so yes there is a difference

 

i dont really get your question.. are you asking how to take your axle nut off and what axle to use? for the nut your gonna have to use an impact hammer and walk it off.

 

The Si and Dx models have the same axles. The HF model has different outer joints and different hubs. You must use the axles that go with the hubs you have. As far as the nut being stripped, cut it off with a nut splitter if you have to, but once you un-stake it, it should come off with the help of a big breaker bar while the car is on the ground.

 

I know how to take the nut off. I just needed to know that HF 1.5 L axles will work with an 89 si tranny?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HF2ZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Si and Dx models have the same axles. The HF model has different outer joints and different hubs. You must use the axles that go with the hubs you have. As far as the nut being stripped, cut it off with a nut splitter if you have to, but once you un-stake it, it should come off with the help of a big breaker bar while the car is on the ground. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not just the nut, its the axle shaft that goes through the hub that is stripped as well. I tried a new nut off the SI axle which was the same diameter but was too small, or short, i dont remember which i just know it doesn't work. the stripped axle shaft stripped the nut which now does not screw on to the new axle smoothly any more.

 

Yes, HF axles will work with an Si transmission.

 

i just got the HF axle that i ordered and it has 23 spline shaft, but it still doesn't fit, way too small, my axle has 26 splines, i do believe the 1.6L axle i bought before this was just too short, according to you guys it has 26 spline count as well. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS?

 

any1

 

up again

 

I dont know if i understand one hundred percent but if the axle is a 26 spline...and if the axle and nut are stripped or watever...just get another axle witch usualy comes with a new nut as well...i dont see how the hub could be stripped..but if "somehow" it happened u can always change to a si/dx hub

but i always thought the hf hubs had smaller axle spots but if your saying its a 26 spline then idk. and the axle shudlnt be to short...u sure u pushed the axle all the way in the hub? I like to throw lots of lube on the tip and jiggle it right in..it may take some force but it def. goes far enough in to start threading the nut withc u can finish with a socket.
hope this helps..

 

i figured it out today when i got my hands on the axle that i bought from autohasaz.com, i ordered an 88 crx axle 1.6L and i remember now that it didn't fit altogether, so i didn't think an Si axle would work. i bought an axle for an 1.5L HF yesterday and it was too small, i counted the splines and it had 23, needless to say i took right back up the street and got my money back, after researching more and looking at the 1.6L axle i ordered, i figured out it also had 23 splines when i counted, (when i first tried to put that "si axle" in that i ordered online, i didn't know to count the splines)so i knew it had to be hf, so i called O'riely's again and asked them to order me an si axle, he asked me about the engine so i explained to him as clear as i could and he turned out to know a lil bit about hondas, he told me he had it in stock and to come up and size it up, so i went up there and looked at the axle and counted the splines and surely enough it had 26, perfect fit, apparently whoever swapped the engine, swapped the hubs too for si/dx hubs. The guy that i talked to said he had an ACT clutch for a b18a6 i believe, im not sure if it was stage 1 or stage 2 but he wanted 200 for it, he told me it would work for my zc w/ 89tranny but i don't know, i know zc is d series based but i've heard i can use any 91 to 00 as long as i got the flywheel and everything, so wouldn't that mean i could use a b series or not?

Also i'm having problems with my idle, ever since i put a GS integ ecu in my, at the same time i changed my clutch, its be idling funny and takes forever to warm up when i start it up first thing in the morning, i also changed my oil to castrol syntec, i didn't notice when i bought it but it was 10w 40, i know i should use 30 but i dont know exactly why and i dont know what the effects might be by using 40, i don't think it would mess with the idle but by all means if that is my problem, please let me know, i really want to fix this problem, also i change the ecu back to the one it had when i got the car and it still does it, im wondering what its gonna do when it gets cold and i start it again. any help or advice is much appreciated, thnx

 

back up

 

no any b-series clutch will not work...and the dohc zc is not the same as the 89 integra but shares close things. a clutch for 88-91 dx/si will work just fine.
And 10-w40 will not harm ur engine but 10-w30 is obviously the better choice.
as for the ecu..u shuldnt be having idle problems but u dont want to be using that ecu because u prob gona run too rich cuz its for a 1.8l
u wana get a 88-91 si ecu or a dohc zc ecu ( pm6/pm7/pg7)

go to
thezcr.com

 

but i have to have an 88 tranny for an 88 disc and 89and up tranny for an 89 and up disc, i figured that out the hard way, i didnt think a b series would work for obvious reasons but i wasnt positive, anyway i dont need the clutch i was just putting it out there....i was told that ecu would work cause it is a 1.8L, even though its based on 1.6L model. but im not too worried if it doesn't work, i need to know about my idle, i cant just turn the key and start it, i have to hold it and let go and try again about 3 times and then if it starts it dies immediately unless i hold the accelerator until it revs, then when i does my foot is amlost all the way on it and it finaly jumps up, then i just have to rev it till it warms up, i dont think this is good, but i have to drive my car, i dont have a problem with it idling too high, i cant get it to idle at all until its warmed up good

 

I have an 89 integ ECU that takes care of the ZC, PG7 I believe. PM me in you're interested. I'm swapping my ZC out due to a blown head, so I have a spare ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dra600n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an 89 integ ECU that takes care of the ZC, PG7 I believe. PM me in you're interested. I'm swapping my ZC out due to a blown head, so I have a spare ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much do you want?

i still need help with how my engine acts when i start it in the morning, (refer to my previous post) if any body might know what my problem is

 

Are you throwing any codes?
And once its warmed up it runs fine? no bouncing between rpms or high/low idle?

 

im gonna have it checked tomorrow for any codes, and once i warm it up it might stabalize at 600 to 750 but once i start driving, every time i push the clutch in drop almost all the and continualy go from 750 to 500 and sometimes it drops all the way and cuts out, even when im shifting 2nd to 3rd, ill push the clutch in and shift to 3rd and not realize sometimes that it cut out until i hear it crank and start going again, sometimes i'll be stopping at a light i push the clutch in and the rpm drops straight to 0 and the batt. light comes on. this is really just while its still warming up some while i drive, after i drive for a while it runs pretty good.

 

Tps is usualy the culprit for idle dropping low then returning to normal.
however, the bouncing can be a vaccum leak etc. There are so many possibilites.
is the car obd1?

 

i believe so, im not exactly sure what i need to get to test the ecu for codes but a friend of mine told me that my ecu cant just be plugged into, it has to be spliced in.

 

i believe its obd0, same person that told me that, also told me that the hose coming from the back of my valve cover that is attached to nothing else is the vaccum that is causing me my problems, but we can't figure out where it goes.

 

up again

 

i figured out that because i have just the cone air filter on my intake manif. i have no were to put that vacuum hose from the valve cover, all i need is an intake pipe that has the little pipe coming off of it close to the intake manifold side and fits around my battery so the filter cone is located on the other side of the battery.

does anybody have one they could sell me? or does any1 know where i can get just the intake pipe that i need for cheap???