How many of you are using the older style eagles with the 5/16 bolts? How much power are you making and how high do you rev on these? I picked up a set of these for cheap and I want to know if I should use them. Planning on 450whp on high boost and revving to 8500 maybe 9k.

 

I haven't used them but either way I would just upgrade to arp rod bolts. There what like 40 bux brand new? It's worth the money for the peace of mind.

 

They already have the arp 2000 bolts but they are small. I heard they upgraded to the 3/8 or 7/16.

 

Yes, the new bolts are 3/8. Just ordered mine the other day

I would still buy the new set. Just for peace of mind. Hope that helps?

EDIT: Not to mention they could be stretched and weakend.

 

whats the part number for those?

 

What's your application?

 

ls crank/rods in gsr block.

 

someone must be using them!

 

Sorry went on my lunch.

You will need part # 208-6401

 

so this can replace the smaller arp's already in my eagle rods?

 

These are the bolts you are looking for. 3/8 size

200-6219

http://www.summitracing.com

Only sold in pairs. Could'nt find the whole set. Good luck man

 

You can't just buy bigger bolts for those rods.

 

uhhh...you guys do know that you can't just buy larger rod bolts and stick them in......the holes in the rods are machined for 5/16" bolts. "upgraged" 3/8 bolts will not work.

you need to buy a new set of rods that COME with the 3/8" bolts if you want the "added saftey"

but i know a number of guys including myself who have been running the older 5/16" rod bolts with no issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhhh...you guys do know that you can't just buy larger rod bolts and stick them in......the holes in the rods are machined for 5/16" bolts. "upgraged" 3/8 bolts will not work.

you need to buy a new set of rods that COME with the 3/8" bolts if you want the "added saftey"

but i know a number of guys including myself who have been running the older 5/16" rod bolts with no issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you really want to you can have them machined. But ya I really didn't think about that one.

 

Or you could sell them for $200 and use the $100 you'd use for bolts and machine work towards a new $300 set. Less dicking around, less chance of the machine shop messing up your rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhhh...you guys do know that you can't just buy larger rod bolts and stick them in......the holes in the rods are machined for 5/16" bolts. "upgraged" 3/8 bolts will not work.

you need to buy a new set of rods that COME with the 3/8" bolts if you want the "added saftey"

but i know a number of guys including myself who have been running the older 5/16" rod bolts with no issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How much power on them and how high were they revving to?

 

You can't just put the bigger bolts to the rod, you need to machined them to fit. It usually cost about $ 100-150 to get them machine.

You'd be better of selling your old rods and get the newer rods.

stan

 

if I decide to stick with the small bolts what kind of abuse can they take?

 

I have not used them in a really aggressive motor, but have had no problems with them in the 300-400 whp range. I also make sure they don't get used in a motor that is going to be wound out much over the stock rev limit. Streatch is probably the biggest threat, IMHO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champLSinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How much power on them and how high were they revving to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was making about 350-360whp and buzzing to 8000-8500rpm for a while. this is on the turbo build. i was also using the same rods in my N/A build 4 or 5 years ago which was spinning to 8500rpm regularly.

if that doesn't sound good enough...you can search tony the tiger's video clips. i've been in his car with turbo B18C with the 5/16" rod bolts spinning to around 9000rpm and i believe he was around 370whp or more?. and he also had the same rods in his old N/A build that buzzed to 9500rpm also.

everyone is so sacred of the rod bolts "failing" when it's improper rod bolt stretch/installation that causes the bolts to fail. simply torquing the bolt down is not really the proper way to build up a bottom end.

either way they are both good rods/bolts. if you have the 5/16" bolt rods now just stick them in........if you are worried about them failing then sell them and buy the larger 3/8" bolt rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i was making about 350-360whp and buzzing to 8000-8500rpm for a while. this is on the turbo build. i was also using the same rods in my N/A build 4 or 5 years ago which was spinning to 8500rpm regularly.

if that doesn't sound good enough...you can search tony the tiger's video clips. i've been in his car with turbo B18C with the 5/16" rod bolts spinning to around 9000rpm and i believe he was around 370whp or more?. and he also had the same rods in his old N/A build that buzzed to 9500rpm also.

everyone is so sacred of the rod bolts "failing" when it's improper rod bolt stretch/installation that causes the bolts to fail. simply torquing the bolt down is not really the proper way to build up a bottom end.

either way they are both good rods/bolts. if you have the 5/16" bolt rods now just stick them in........if you are worried about them failing then sell them and buy the larger 3/8" bolt rods. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks! I will stick with these. I dont think I will need to rev higher than 8500 so I should be safe. I will just turn up the boost to get me to my power goals.

 

Theres things you have to consider since this is a boosted. The bolts don't do much when it comes to compressing the rod, such as when the piston is compressing a large volume of air, being pushed down after ignition, or forcing the large volume of even higher pressure exhaust out of the cylinder. That mainly leaves the beginning of the intake stroke to be pulling on the rod, which is what really stresses those bolts.

The other thing that stresses bolts is free revving, where there's no load on the piston to slow it down as it nears TDC. The previous post that mentioned a bent rod during a burnout is most likely from a less than perfect rod & too much free revving. If you look into it, you'll find many burnout contests where they toss a rod. The pistons and bearings are fine (or at least show no indications of being the problem), but the rod and/or rod bolts snap in half.

In other words, the 5/16" bolts should be fine as long as you don't rev it w/o thinking. For reference, its not uncommon for people to take an LS/V motor, slap arp bolts on the stock rods, put high CR pistons on, and rev to 8.5k all the time. These eagles are thicker rods and bigger bolts than what a stock LS rod/bolt is.

 

also another thing you should know about the stress points on a rod/rod bolt.

boost applies a much different load to the rod bolts than a N/A engine. a N/A engine will be more likely to break a rod bolt than a boosted engine because of the load/stress applied to the rod.

so a smaller rod bolt is more of a non-issue when it comes to boost. but a larger rod bolt will never hurt. so whichever decision you make its gonna be a good one as long as they are installed correctly........

p.s. pick your engine builder wisely

 

Eagle rods don't break...they strecthed ooooouuuuttttt......

 

I took my small bolt set up to 9800rpm and made around 600whp...... Its all about the tune