Im building a mild B18c1 allmotor build.
ITR pistons
skunk2 stage 2s
mugen headgasket
supertech retainers and springs
smsp header
skunk2 i.m.

My question is I heard that skunk2 stage 2 cams make the most power from 8k and above. What Rpm's will the car be able to go up to with stock rods? Also would stock injectors/fuel pump be ok or will i have to upgrade? Thanks


Modified by tpdc2 at 3:01 PM 4/4/2007

 

bump

 

ttt

 

I'm reving a similar build b18c1 to 9k rpm on stock rods, itr pistons, blox type b cams, s2 i.m. edelbrock header, yada yada yada yada.

 

Cool. so it would be safe to push it to 8500-9000.

 

Anyone else use stock gsr rods and rev that high

 

if you want to try taking stock rods that high at least get arp bolts and install them properly

 

do i have to make any modifications to the rods to do that

 

Ditto, use the ARP rod bolts as doood said, 70 bucks worth of insurance even though a GSR would probably be fine. I would do it anyway because it's so cheap.


That being said, you will have to strap the car down to a dyno to see where it makes power to. S2 says that the cams make peak power at 9k but when I was experimenting with my car at the track two weekends ago, I netted the best ET by shifting at 8700, a full .2 quicker than 9k and my 60's are all within .05 of each other so it wasn't driver error. I would make 4 passes with each change to see how the car reacted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to make any modifications to the rods to do that</TD></TR></TABLE>
the big end has to be resized. have a machine shop do it.

 

Ok thanks alot guys. I am getting the work done at whip factory a local shop hopefully they would know a good place to get this done at.

 

im not sure what you can rev to safely. but i would not recommend going past 9k on stock rods. as far as the injectors and pump you will be fine. just turn fuel pressure up a little, no more than 60 psi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the big end has to be resized. have a machine shop do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you need to do that when they are the same size as the stock bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NUISANCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you need to do that when they are the same size as the stock bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so does anybody know for sure if i have to get the rods machined or not?

 

no you dont, i think he is thinking of LS rods they have to be resized to fit the ITR pistons on there but GSR rods will go right on no problems

 

what mm rod bolts bolt up to grs rods

 

if you wanna rev higher...get eagle rods..and you can put this all behind you!

 

Eagle rods won't fit ITR pistons, plus the cheapest Eagle rods I found were $300.

Just get the ARP bolts, part check in the performance section. I picked mine up from there for less than $70 shipped.

 

thanks alot guys

 

I got my arp stuff from user BlueR, might want to shoot him a PM. Good guy !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NUISANCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you need to do that when they are the same size as the stock bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because pressing out the old one's and pressin the new ones distorts the journal. you have it honed back to spec.

 

so i would just get it honed back to spec at a machine shop?

 

Yes, just makes them round again.

No one is confusing LS rods and ITR pistons, that's a whole different ball park. The act of forcing out the old studs, putting in the new ones, and then properly stretching them distorts the bore of the big end slightly so they just need to be rehoned to spec. Not a big deal or expensive.

FWIW, I got my ARP's from summit for like 30 bucks shipped and I think the machine shop charged me 50 for installing and rehoning.

Of course that was done at the same time as my block and head plus balancing so it may be a bit more when it's all your doing but still, it's not a bad price.

 

Ok so do you think the will charge me alot extra to get this done? Or does it require any other work to be done? There are going to be in the block when they install the pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because pressing out the old one's and pressin the new ones distorts the journal. you have it honed back to spec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, I though it was meant that the holes for the bolts had to be opened. Sorry for the confusion.