Brake warped..
I have a 91 civic sedan, and i noticed pulsation when i started stopping recently, so i took it into a local brake repair shop, and they said that my brakes were warped.
To fix the problem they say its gunna run me around 140$
Is there any way that I myself can change them?
I believe the only thing i need to do is change the brake rotors correct?
If it is an easy thing to do, are there any write ups that are similar to what i need to do to fix them?
<U>Also i looked around and found this upgrade, Im not sure if it applies to my vehicle, but if it is, would this fix the pulsation?</U> (since it replaces the rotors..)
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
To fix the problem they say its gunna run me around 140$
Is there any way that I myself can change them?
I believe the only thing i need to do is change the brake rotors correct?
If it is an easy thing to do, are there any write ups that are similar to what i need to do to fix them?
<U>Also i looked around and found this upgrade, Im not sure if it applies to my vehicle, but if it is, would this fix the pulsation?</U> (since it replaces the rotors..)
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
Its easy....Just,
Take off the wheel.
Compress the caliper with a C clamp to relieve pressure.
Remove brake caliper (2 bolts)
Remove the philips head screw holding the rotor in place (if its even there).
Then the rotor pops right off.
I suggest doing the pads while you're there.
Easy as hell. A warped rotor is usually the cause of shuddering brakes.
Take off the wheel.
Compress the caliper with a C clamp to relieve pressure.
Remove brake caliper (2 bolts)
Remove the philips head screw holding the rotor in place (if its even there).
Then the rotor pops right off.
I suggest doing the pads while you're there.
Easy as hell. A warped rotor is usually the cause of shuddering brakes.
Yes you can change them yourself.... It's a pretty easy job.
That being said "if" you are having a re-occuring problem, it "might" be case that someone has overtorqued the wheels at one time and warped the hub that the disc attaches to. (There is a TSB out on that from many years ago)
PS: Whenever doing brake work, OPEN the bleeder screws on the caliper BEFORE pushing the pads back.
WHY? , Well if you don't all the OLD fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder... which doesn't do it any favors.
Best to open the bleeder screw.... let the old fluid out.. and run some new fluid thru..
Another "tip"..
When buying brake fluid, don't buy the DOT 3 regular brake fluid...
http://www.tundrasolutions.com...shing/
Look for some with a low-moisture formulation such as
http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=51
Don't do like this guy!!!! Not flushing the brake fluid is just "asking" for trouble:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/115339-post6/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Herb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm....I'm not at all sure what to make of this thread.
My 86 Ford 3/4 ton, now 16+ years old, has the factory brake fluid, the lines have never been bled, and the brakes work just fine. The same is true for a 1966 Olds Delta 88 my elderly father insists on driving.
So, what am I doing wrong and why? Do you guys own stock in a brake fluid company or what?
Herb</TD></TR></TABLE>
That being said "if" you are having a re-occuring problem, it "might" be case that someone has overtorqued the wheels at one time and warped the hub that the disc attaches to. (There is a TSB out on that from many years ago)
PS: Whenever doing brake work, OPEN the bleeder screws on the caliper BEFORE pushing the pads back.
WHY? , Well if you don't all the OLD fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder... which doesn't do it any favors.
Best to open the bleeder screw.... let the old fluid out.. and run some new fluid thru..
Another "tip"..
When buying brake fluid, don't buy the DOT 3 regular brake fluid...
http://www.tundrasolutions.com...shing/
Look for some with a low-moisture formulation such as
http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=51
Don't do like this guy!!!! Not flushing the brake fluid is just "asking" for trouble:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/115339-post6/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Herb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm....I'm not at all sure what to make of this thread.
My 86 Ford 3/4 ton, now 16+ years old, has the factory brake fluid, the lines have never been bled, and the brakes work just fine. The same is true for a 1966 Olds Delta 88 my elderly father insists on driving.
So, what am I doing wrong and why? Do you guys own stock in a brake fluid company or what?
Herb</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^ You don't need to change fluid, ever.
I have yet to find a honda service manual that says 'Replace brake fluid every XXXXXkms". It's always Inspect level.
You SHOULD replace the 100% of the fluid when you do any major brake work. Like rear cylinders, front calipers, brake line replacement, basically whenever you open up the lines themselves.
I have yet to find a honda service manual that says 'Replace brake fluid every XXXXXkms". It's always Inspect level.
You SHOULD replace the 100% of the fluid when you do any major brake work. Like rear cylinders, front calipers, brake line replacement, basically whenever you open up the lines themselves.
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xkwzt21
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Nov 20, 2009 03:57 PM




