Coolant Blows out Overflow tank under boost! HELP!!!!
GSR
Mahle 9-1 pistons
Block guard
ARP head studs
Cometic Head Gasket
325hp @ 15psi
After a full throttle run coolant is sprayed in engine bay and the car over heats but cools down fast after about 2 minutes. What is the problem and how can I check to make sure this is the problem before tearing the engine down? I have just put on a rebuilt turbo and a performer x intake and therefore cant boost the car until it is tuned so I need a way of diagnosing it without boosting it. If you have knowledge with this please chime in, if not please don’t, I don’t want to be chasing down issues that don’t exist.
Mahle 9-1 pistons
Block guard
ARP head studs
Cometic Head Gasket
325hp @ 15psi
After a full throttle run coolant is sprayed in engine bay and the car over heats but cools down fast after about 2 minutes. What is the problem and how can I check to make sure this is the problem before tearing the engine down? I have just put on a rebuilt turbo and a performer x intake and therefore cant boost the car until it is tuned so I need a way of diagnosing it without boosting it. If you have knowledge with this please chime in, if not please don’t, I don’t want to be chasing down issues that don’t exist.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedteg4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Cometic Head Gasket
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im willing to bet thats your problem. use a OEM gasket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
im willing to bet thats your problem. use a OEM gasket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im willing to bet thats your problem. use a OEM gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm willing to bet that's jumping to conclusions. I agree that it is likely a headgasket, but not simply because it's a cometic. Cometic's do work.
Do a compression test and leak down. That should narrow things down a lot for you and give you a good starting point so you know what to do next.
I'm willing to bet that's jumping to conclusions. I agree that it is likely a headgasket, but not simply because it's a cometic. Cometic's do work.
Do a compression test and leak down. That should narrow things down a lot for you and give you a good starting point so you know what to do next.
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try checking for air in the coolant system. you could have a nice air pocket floating around, open your bleed off valve or take the rad. cap off and run the car for awhile and see how many air bubble you get.
I noticed the problem on a 3rd gear pull. I was also wondering if it could have something to do with the intake manifold gasket im running. It is the hondata gasket.
Modified by boostedteg4dr at 7:17 PM 4/4/2007
Modified by boostedteg4dr at 7:17 PM 4/4/2007
been using a 3mm cometic hg with arps on my stock motor for over a year and 0 issues (10 psi)
Indeed dont jump into conclusions
Indeed dont jump into conclusions
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedteg4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GSR
Mahle 9-1 pistons
Block guard
ARP head studs
Cometic Head Gasket
325hp @ 15psi
After a full throttle run coolant is sprayed in engine bay and the car over heats but cools down fast after about 2 minutes. What is the problem and how can I check to make sure this is the problem before tearing the engine down? I have just put on a rebuilt turbo and a performer x intake and therefore cant boost the car until it is tuned so I need a way of diagnosing it without boosting it. If you have knowledge with this please chime in, if not please don’t, I don’t want to be chasing down issues that don’t exist.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So did you go boost on it before it was retuned? That could be your problem too, it is NOT the Cometic gasket so don't listen to that BS on here!
Did you have any misfiring when you were boosting? You may just have a blown headgasket BUT something caused it to blow, could be lifting the head maybe due to the tune or lack there of since you made changes. Could be a cracked sleeve also. As Bret said do a leakdown and track it down if not go through all the trouble and swap the headgasket and find out then
Mahle 9-1 pistons
Block guard
ARP head studs
Cometic Head Gasket
325hp @ 15psi
After a full throttle run coolant is sprayed in engine bay and the car over heats but cools down fast after about 2 minutes. What is the problem and how can I check to make sure this is the problem before tearing the engine down? I have just put on a rebuilt turbo and a performer x intake and therefore cant boost the car until it is tuned so I need a way of diagnosing it without boosting it. If you have knowledge with this please chime in, if not please don’t, I don’t want to be chasing down issues that don’t exist.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So did you go boost on it before it was retuned? That could be your problem too, it is NOT the Cometic gasket so don't listen to that BS on here!
Did you have any misfiring when you were boosting? You may just have a blown headgasket BUT something caused it to blow, could be lifting the head maybe due to the tune or lack there of since you made changes. Could be a cracked sleeve also. As Bret said do a leakdown and track it down if not go through all the trouble and swap the headgasket and find out then
How to: blow a headgasket, crack a sleeve, burn a piston, etc - a step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Take a well-tuned turbo engine based on a MAP sensor.
Step 2: Add a performance part.
Step 3: Don't retune, pray it adds ZERO whp.
Step 4: Redline it a few times, knowing the air-fuel mixture has become dangerously lean, regardless of your 'conservative' ignition maps.
Step 5: Damn any god(s) you prayed to.
Step 6: Start rebuilding the motor...
As infered, it could easily be due to the fact you're flowing much more air than originally, the ecu doesn't compensate, and you ended up with a dangerously lean mixture. Lean mixture + 15psi = kaka-kaboom (my detonation sounds
)
Step 1: Take a well-tuned turbo engine based on a MAP sensor.
Step 2: Add a performance part.
Step 3: Don't retune, pray it adds ZERO whp.
Step 4: Redline it a few times, knowing the air-fuel mixture has become dangerously lean, regardless of your 'conservative' ignition maps.
Step 5: Damn any god(s) you prayed to.
Step 6: Start rebuilding the motor...
As infered, it could easily be due to the fact you're flowing much more air than originally, the ecu doesn't compensate, and you ended up with a dangerously lean mixture. Lean mixture + 15psi = kaka-kaboom (my detonation sounds
)
In regards to Hiprofile. I have not boosted the car since the intake manifold and rebuilt turbo have been installed. I changed out my oil tee to a oil sandwich plate. At this time I noticed my turbo needed to be rebuilt. When the turbo was in getting rebuilt I put my Victor x on. I have not boosted the car since the modifications after tuning it. But I want to chase down the coolant problem before I tune it.
Try replacing the radiator cap ? if yuor cap is worn and not holding pressure, obviously the coolant can't be held down and it'll shoot over to the overflow reservoir..
stan
stan
Check your radiator. I had that happen with one of the boosted preludes i was working on. the car would idle fine, and run fine, but under pressure it would spray a little collant out and start to overheat. The problem was in the neck of the radiator, it was an aluminum radiator that some how got a crack in the neck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedteg4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I want to chase down the coolant problem before I tune it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The best way to start this process is the compression test and leak down. The car doesn't even have to be on to do this. You can even just trailer the thing to the shop and get it done. It'll take like 15-30 minutes from start to finish (including getting the tools out). Even if the HG is not blown, then you get valuable information out of the test that you could use later down the road.
The best way to start this process is the compression test and leak down. The car doesn't even have to be on to do this. You can even just trailer the thing to the shop and get it done. It'll take like 15-30 minutes from start to finish (including getting the tools out). Even if the HG is not blown, then you get valuable information out of the test that you could use later down the road.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maddog20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What ems are you running? </TD></TR></TABLE>
What ems are you running? </TD></TR></TABLE>
wow.... so many people saying head gasket...
leakdown test... dont tear the head off unless you have to. see if your oil has turned to choc. milk. then, maybe head gasket.
but whoever said radiator cap, had a good point. could be something simple. dont automatically think it the head gasket
leakdown test... dont tear the head off unless you have to. see if your oil has turned to choc. milk. then, maybe head gasket.
but whoever said radiator cap, had a good point. could be something simple. dont automatically think it the head gasket
My car was tuned with Chrome at the same shop that built the engine? Even though they built the engine and tuned the car I don’t think they will stand behind the problem.
RADIATOR CAP. If this was the problem why would it only blow coolant under full boost and not when ever the engine is warm.
When the car overheats the heat gets cold witch makes me think air is entering into the system. Once the car cools back to normal temp the heat comes back.
RADIATOR CAP. If this was the problem why would it only blow coolant under full boost and not when ever the engine is warm.
When the car overheats the heat gets cold witch makes me think air is entering into the system. Once the car cools back to normal temp the heat comes back.
Even with a leakdown test he still might not find a headgasket leak. 100psi of air pressure is nowhere near peak cylinder pressures.
Your headgasket is compromised. Your car appears to have excessive cylinder pressure, probably due to having too much timing in boost.
I would replace the headgasket and torque the ARPs to 10 to 15 ft/lbs over stock using ARP moly lube. Baby the car to the tuner.
I am a tuner. You modified the engine from it's configuration when it was tuned. I wouldn't cover the problem either.
Your headgasket is compromised. Your car appears to have excessive cylinder pressure, probably due to having too much timing in boost.
I would replace the headgasket and torque the ARPs to 10 to 15 ft/lbs over stock using ARP moly lube. Baby the car to the tuner.
I am a tuner. You modified the engine from it's configuration when it was tuned. I wouldn't cover the problem either.
In regards to Jim Truett. The engine was blowing coolant before I modified anything. It was blowing coolant 6 months ago. It sat all winter and I have just recently had the turbo rebuilt and installed the intake manifold. What headgasket should I get?



have a nice day