Someone asked, so for you DIY's here, I like this design because it adds more area to clamp the subframe with.

The design is for 6061 aluminum.
If you dont have the ability to make them, you can get them here...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1940931

 

solid works FTW!! EG-honda? did you used to be E-Honda

 

I would add a fillet to those 90* high stress areas. Besides that, the design looks pretty good...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev1987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">solid works FTW!! EG-honda? did you used to be E-Honda</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, but I do use E-Honda from Street Fighter for my avatar.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would add a fillet to those 90* high stress areas. Besides that, the design looks pretty good...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
not a bad idea, but in the stress testing it only affected very high loads.

 

I thought there would be more intrest in DIY info on the forum.
hmm

 

maybe i missed some information, but you claim that this can be used instead of a ASR subframe brace?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev1987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">solid works FTW!! EG-honda? did you used to be E-Honda</TD></TR></TABLE>

Youre thinking of E.HONDA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe i missed some information, but you claim that this can be used instead of a ASR subframe brace?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is not my intention at all, I was more looking at the other types of kits out there (beaks, bsq) and thought there could be a little more "meat" around the subframe for support. The ASR works by supporting at not only the swaybar mounts, but also the LCA bolts also, which makes it also act as a lower tie bar. The only reason I felt for a new design , was the apparent space that could be utilized for additonal support.

 

looks exactly like the beaks sway bar reinforcement kit. what's the difference?
http://www.beaksproducts.com/S...t.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks exactly like the beaks sway bar reinforcement kit. what's the difference?
http://www.beaksproducts.com/S...t.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
His is cheaper and made by him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
His is cheaper and made by him.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks exactly like the beaks sway bar reinforcement kit. what's the difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see beaks giving you the drawing to make it yourself!

 

damn thats a great price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG-Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't see beaks giving you the drawing to make it yourself!</TD></TR></TABLE>

HEY MAN RELAX! i was just asking a simple question, no need to get bent out of shape.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

HEY MAN RELAX! i was just asking a simple question, no need to get bent out of shape. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

pretty good diy...

 

Looks good

Now make one that relocates the swaybar so it doesn't hit my thermal exhaust

 

Or you could just buy the Progress 24mm rear adjustable sway and save your subframe and a ton of money.

 

I don't think I need a 24mm bar for mostly street driving. I have yet to find a picture of a 3" thermal exhaust with a rear swaybar on a hatch. (that doesn't need some sort of modifying)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG-Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not a bad idea, but in the stress testing it only affected very high loads. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Um... that's the point of adding the fillet. Those sharp corners act as stress concentrators and a greater curvature reduces this effect. Depending on the state of stress and the load this thing is under, it may/may not be necessary. I'm not sure if you are saying that you wouldn't add it because it only relieves highly loaded areas or if you are saying that you don't need it because testing showed that the stress at that area didn't exceed the strength of the material. Anyway, if it's the former, then you should consider redesigning it with the fillet. If it's the latter, then it was just some good advice from 94eg!.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xunsungheroesx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
some good advice from 94eg!. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good advice indeed. That's the beauty of DIY, you have the information to do it how you like.

Here are pics of the stress results between a fillet and not fillet.

NO FILLET


WITH FILLET


This was done with a calculated force of 1000 lbs. Which I feel is High. You can see that the fillet does not change much, as the clear weaknes of the design is the span and restriction of part thickness. Sure you could make it thicker, but then you start having alignment issues with the sway bar.

 

Love the DIY... Cool pics also.. You should re-design the ASR one and put that in your stress test and see how it compares...

Thought i saw a thread awhile back that someone did that, but cant recall...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer_X_123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Love the DIY... Cool pics also.. You should re-design the ASR one ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Already ahead of you...need to verify hole locations before I relase it though. The ASR one is deffinetly overkill for the application. I belive the best way to go is to make it as light as possible. This is a pic of the first go around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG-Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Already ahead of you...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i had to guess, ASR would have made it that big in order to distibute the load throughout the entire peice of aluminum. Cant wait for the results.

 

The ASR one weighs like 5 lbs and is solid.

I'd rather have a solid piece that weighs 5lbs than a perforated pieces that weighs 2-3lbs.