Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts?

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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:41 PM
  #1  
Kaspk's Avatar
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Default Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts?

I was told way back when to not spend money on solid polyurathane motor mounts, and to just fill ithem with polyurathane from the store and let them dry into solid mounts?

Has anybody done this before? What should I use? where do I get it?
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts? (Kaspk)

IMO dont' halfass ur motor mounts just buy them and have that security
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:48 PM
  #3  
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Default Re: Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts? (Kaspk)

Go to an autoparts store and look for Window Weld. Also get a caulk gun if you don't already have one. Then just go ahead and fill them up. but you need a few days for it to cure.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Sweet, thanks man
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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Default Re: (Kaspk)

I would personally say stay away from windo-weld, I find it to still be too flexible, if you really want to fasten ur mounts fill them will quicksteel, I have energy suspension inserts in front and rear torque mounts which works good but made the top mounts very weak very quick so I filled tranny mount with 3M windo-weld and driverside mount with quicksteel and I must say quicksteel is far more stable, mount cannot flex at all but the windo-weld tranny mount still moves like a biotch so I am currently looking for another tranny mount to fill with quicksteel this time then the motor should be perfect and eliminate all wheelhop and motor rocking when letting on and off the gas quickly. Quicksteel has a 85A shore hardness while 3M super urethane is only 65A shore and stocks are only 55A when brand new so my advice is quicksteel if u dont mind a little vibration at idle. P.S. I also have torque damper and I would say save ur money on that one. Just my 2 cents from personal experiance. Cheers! By the way quicksteel is available at ur local autozone for $5 a tube, its a putty like epoxy and will probably need 2 or 3 tubes to do passenger and drivers side upper mounts as far as torque mounts i would say just get inserts they are only $40 at autozone and not very difficult to install except rear one is a little tricky. Best info on rear one is remove entire bracket to get mount out without fighting, then inserts slide in like butter then kinda gotta wrestle it back in for the back one but not to bad. Front 2 torque inserts are cake. Just ask if u got any ?'s Also windo-weld takes over 3 days to cure quicksteel takes 1 hr!
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:16 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts? (Kaspk)

The actual inserts cost around $35. By the time you spend the money on the Window Weld, and then wait around for it to dry so that you can reinstall the mounts, you really aren't saving much by going the "poor man's" route.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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Default Re: Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts? (Padawan)

Yes agree about windo weld (garbage) but like i said inserts only cover 3 torque mounts which leaves the top mounts to take all the brute force and believe me they will wear out real quick so torque mount inserts+quicksteel in top mounts= Perfect combo if u dont mind rattling a little at idle and you can wrap it up and have it all done in under two hours
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Default

isn't there a walk through for this in the faq?
either here or the ef board.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:02 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: Poor mans Solid Motor Mounts? (Kaspk)

if you want make your own mounts you need to know how to tig or mig weld, first get some 2" ID steel dom pipe w/ 3/16" wall, and some high quality stiff bushings that will fit into that pipe. cut a piece of pipe that will fit into the engine mounts bracket with the bushings installed. then make some brackets out of 1/8" plate steel. those brackets will be welded onto the mounting plate w/ the hole drilled for the bolts that will be installed on the chassis. tack weld everything together to make sure everything lines up right, then run some strong bead welds to hold everything together. its alot of work but it functions. you might save a little money, but you can get a full set for about $300 from hp racing that will fit perfectly.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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Default

He is only looking to stiffen his bushings, not make a whole new set of mounts. Why does everyone say the window weld is trash, I just did it the other day and it works fine for me, but I don't want to run into any issues.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #11  
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Why don't you just cut your springs so you can have a "poor man's lowered car" too?
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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Default Re: (drtysohc)

I don't know dude.
Calculate the cost of window weld + your time vs. a ~$30-$40 set of
energy suspension motor mounts and in my opinion, buying the mounts wins out.

Just a warning.. i have a stock D motor. My entire car vibrates from 0-1700rpm when the gas pedal is pressed with the energy suspension mounts.. girlfriend hates it.. i'm sure parts are coming loose. Makes my car feel less solid.

Is it worth it for the slightly increased superlowend torque and firm shift feel? yes.
Over all, motor mounts are one of those mods with a definete tradeoff ( unless you have
something crazy like a h22 or turbo/sc type-r where the motor is trying to jump out of the engine bay then okay.. you have no option, haha )
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 10:21 AM
  #13  
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Default Re: (Neptronix)

Im telling you if ur gonna stuff mounts with anything use quicksteel 85A shore hardness of Flexane 95A shore, quicksteel $5 a tube 1hr cure time, flexane $60 a lbs. 3day cure time, forget windo-weld, too damn soft and over 4 days with no car waiting for it to cure and if u do choose to run windo-weld anyway make sure u fill middle and let dry then fill rest in on top or center will not dry for over a week. Oh and if u do use crappy windo-weld, put down the extra cash to get some rubber gloves cause that is like playing with ink, very VERY mess stuff, ask me how I know, spent more time cleaning up then injecting it in mounts and for good sake dont touch anything white, not even ur bathroom sink or ur in for some trouble, once again ask me how i know And no matter what route u take always use blue locktite on bolts cause they will vibrate themselves right out after time, hope this helps somebody cause after all thats why im here.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:30 PM
  #14  
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From: Westfield, MA, USA
Default Re: (VWFANATIC)

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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:39 PM
  #15  
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Default Re: (VWFANATIC)

just fab your own. instead of using stock mounts with rubber inserts why dont ya just create some sheet metal mounts or call up some one and have them CNC you a set...................................???


what id do is go ahead and lather some mild stock steel grind the paint off the oem mount and rip/burn all that rubber out and run a few beads connecting your new cylinder to your outer shell of an oem mount and mill a hole in the middle.

thatd be my poor mans version of a solid motor mount, simmilar to what race teams do with their suspensions


i seriously wished i knew how to weld/ had creativity when i just blindly ordered my mount set from hybrid not bagging on hasport or hybrids product, i just like creating things
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 03:28 AM
  #16  
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Default Re: (suicide_shift)

I've got the mount inserts and the only part that sucks is getting the back one in.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #17  
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From: fl, united staes
Default Re: (Ricey McRicerton)

I do agree with quick steel awsome stuff just did mine in a b18 hatch thanks for the info man. And for the vibration my wife dont really care and i can deal with it.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #18  
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Default Re: (Neptronix)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">( unless you have
something crazy like a h22 or turbo/sc type-r where the motor is trying to jump out of the engine bay</TD></TR></TABLE>


they like to do that =P
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