My single cam vtec turbo build
I figured it was time to have a build thread of my own.
After, some fooling around with NA I figured it was time to go turbo.
-----------------------------
First, some history on my car and what it has been through.
I bought it around a year and a half ago for $1500. It was a nice stock 1990 CRX si. It had a d16A6 with stock intake and exhaust systems.
After just an intake I took it to the tracks and ran 16.2 not bad but nothing to brag about.
First, I tried swapping in the DOHC ZC engine I had sitting in my garage. I could never get it to run right. Compression was very low and the motor needed a rebuild. Okay, swap the d16a6 back in.
First week I had it back I loved it, the power band was nice and smooth but my brother's b16 crx had me wanting vtec.
I slapped on my d16y8 head I had laying around. This swap was easy, I just used the d16a6 IM, dizzy and header. Bought myself a used VAFCI ( I didn't know any better ) hooked up vtec. The car seemed to have a nice pick up to it but the power band was lacking and I start to ask around and read up on some tuning possibilities. After 2 track runs and a new best run of 15.6 @ 87mph I found out that the top screw for the driver side mount had broken off in the block. After hours of trying to drill it out, I gave up and decided to hit the junk yard.
I picked up an SOHC ZC block. It looked pretty new on the inside so after checking the bottom end of it and trying to wiggle the pistons around I decided to get it.
I slapped it under my d16y8 head along with all the new goodies, new spark plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, new HG of course, water pump. Started her up. That was 2 weeks ago.
I just picked up a quarter polished d16z6 head and I have a d16y8 intake manifold in my garage + some turbo DSM injectors that plug right up to my injector clips ( I might still purchase some new ones ). I also just got 2.5" custom catback done. With a nice long resonator, it sound nice and deep staying under the legal noise level. It has a nice stock looking tip and it comes out the driver's side like the stock muffler does. Hopefully it'll be just as quiet or quieter once I get the turbo.
I just purchased an OBD1 conversion kit from rywire.
I have a d16z6 dizzy at home and an OBD1 ecu.
I'm working on getting an OBD1 ecu sockected and burn 2 chips. the base P28 map and a turbo map. I'm planning to run a T3 turbo hopefully at around 6-8 psi intercooled.
I'm also looking at purchasing a new fuel pump to match the air that will be forced into the engine.
Of course all the turbo stuff will stay off the engine until everything is ready to be put in all at once. For now, I will put in the OBD1 conversion and hope I can get into the low 15s.
----------------------------
Some concerns:
With the y8 IM I will have to mount one of the sensors on my intake piping (is there a way to mount it and not had a major boost leak?). I'm wondering if I should just keep my a6 manifold until I can get an aftermarket one.
I'm aiming for around 160-180 whp
-------------------------------
Now for some questions:
- Will I need to re-enforce my block for 6-8 psi?
- I'm thinking about getting some ARP head studs, will I need them?
- Will I be okay with running 91 octane? Right now, I'm running the OEM 2 layer metal HG.
- Will I still need a missing link + FMU if I'm running a chipped ecu?
I will take as many pics and update as often as I can. With all that said, I should get my OBD1 conversion harness in the next couple of days.
...And it starts.... wish me luck.
After, some fooling around with NA I figured it was time to go turbo.
-----------------------------
First, some history on my car and what it has been through.
I bought it around a year and a half ago for $1500. It was a nice stock 1990 CRX si. It had a d16A6 with stock intake and exhaust systems.
After just an intake I took it to the tracks and ran 16.2 not bad but nothing to brag about.
First, I tried swapping in the DOHC ZC engine I had sitting in my garage. I could never get it to run right. Compression was very low and the motor needed a rebuild. Okay, swap the d16a6 back in.
First week I had it back I loved it, the power band was nice and smooth but my brother's b16 crx had me wanting vtec.
I slapped on my d16y8 head I had laying around. This swap was easy, I just used the d16a6 IM, dizzy and header. Bought myself a used VAFCI ( I didn't know any better ) hooked up vtec. The car seemed to have a nice pick up to it but the power band was lacking and I start to ask around and read up on some tuning possibilities. After 2 track runs and a new best run of 15.6 @ 87mph I found out that the top screw for the driver side mount had broken off in the block. After hours of trying to drill it out, I gave up and decided to hit the junk yard.
I picked up an SOHC ZC block. It looked pretty new on the inside so after checking the bottom end of it and trying to wiggle the pistons around I decided to get it.
I slapped it under my d16y8 head along with all the new goodies, new spark plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, new HG of course, water pump. Started her up. That was 2 weeks ago.
I just picked up a quarter polished d16z6 head and I have a d16y8 intake manifold in my garage + some turbo DSM injectors that plug right up to my injector clips ( I might still purchase some new ones ). I also just got 2.5" custom catback done. With a nice long resonator, it sound nice and deep staying under the legal noise level. It has a nice stock looking tip and it comes out the driver's side like the stock muffler does. Hopefully it'll be just as quiet or quieter once I get the turbo.
I just purchased an OBD1 conversion kit from rywire.
I have a d16z6 dizzy at home and an OBD1 ecu.
I'm working on getting an OBD1 ecu sockected and burn 2 chips. the base P28 map and a turbo map. I'm planning to run a T3 turbo hopefully at around 6-8 psi intercooled.
I'm also looking at purchasing a new fuel pump to match the air that will be forced into the engine.
Of course all the turbo stuff will stay off the engine until everything is ready to be put in all at once. For now, I will put in the OBD1 conversion and hope I can get into the low 15s.
----------------------------
Some concerns:
With the y8 IM I will have to mount one of the sensors on my intake piping (is there a way to mount it and not had a major boost leak?). I'm wondering if I should just keep my a6 manifold until I can get an aftermarket one.
I'm aiming for around 160-180 whp
-------------------------------
Now for some questions:
- Will I need to re-enforce my block for 6-8 psi?
- I'm thinking about getting some ARP head studs, will I need them?
- Will I be okay with running 91 octane? Right now, I'm running the OEM 2 layer metal HG.
- Will I still need a missing link + FMU if I'm running a chipped ecu?
I will take as many pics and update as often as I can. With all that said, I should get my OBD1 conversion harness in the next couple of days.
...And it starts.... wish me luck.
d16y8 IM and z6 head > y8 head and z6 Im
is it going to be DD because mini boosted is already high compression and with boost wow...must have is proper tuning...
FMU
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- Will I need to re-enforce my block for 6-8 psi?
not neccessarily
- I'm thinking about getting some ARP head studs, will I need them?
wouldn't hurt and most people reccomend it
- Will I be okay with running 91 octane? Right now, I'm running the OEM 2 layer metal HG.
yes has to be 91...it should be fine
- Will I still need a missing link + FMU if I'm running a chipped ecu?
FMU
read the FI faq good stuff
gl and read the faq...i wish i could give more information but i am very new to this too
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is it going to be DD because mini boosted is already high compression and with boost wow...must have is proper tuning...
FMU
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- Will I need to re-enforce my block for 6-8 psi?
not neccessarily
- I'm thinking about getting some ARP head studs, will I need them?
wouldn't hurt and most people reccomend it
- Will I be okay with running 91 octane? Right now, I'm running the OEM 2 layer metal HG.
yes has to be 91...it should be fine
- Will I still need a missing link + FMU if I'm running a chipped ecu?
FMU
read the FI faq good stuffgl and read the faq...i wish i could give more information but i am very new to this too
</TD></TR></TABLE>
not menaing to jack the thread, but i got a question pertaining to diff D16 parts put together.
i got a full d16z6, but i want to reasemble my whole engine from other D16's to get the better outcome. This build has a few combinations and suggestions, whats a popular/common selection of parts from diff engine like intake mani, block, head, piston etc to piece something better than the stock whole engine?
i got a full d16z6, but i want to reasemble my whole engine from other D16's to get the better outcome. This build has a few combinations and suggestions, whats a popular/common selection of parts from diff engine like intake mani, block, head, piston etc to piece something better than the stock whole engine?
the ultimate I would say SOHC ZC or d16a6 block with DOHC ZC (PM7) pistions, with d16z6 head and oem HG with d16y8 Intake manifold. I think this would yield too high of a compression though like above 13 but not sure
Thanks, yeah I was thinking that I don't need the FMU or missing link anymore but would I need a different MAP sensor or should be the stock one be okay for 6-8psi?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ultimate I would say SOHC ZC or d16a6 block with DOHC ZC (PM7) pistions, with d16z6 head and oem HG with d16y8 Intake manifold. I think this would yield too high of a compression though like above 13 but not sure</TD></TR></TABLE> yah all US i would say z6 head, y8 IM, but a6 block and a1 pistons...damn your Japanese aggressive cams
I wonder what it is

don't mind the dirty room
hmm what is that shiny thing under the white stuff?

oooo such a small inter cooler

Not too big but should work for my setup.

don't mind the dirty room
hmm what is that shiny thing under the white stuff?

oooo such a small inter cooler

Not too big but should work for my setup.
I think on my kit, the wires are for if I'm doing a gsr swap. Everything is connected including the 4 wire O2 sensor, vtec oil pressure and vtec solenoid switch.
I'm waiting for my ecu
I'm waiting for my ecu
Thats exactly what their probably for. Usually they give you two additional wires for the secondary butteries on a gsr manifold and I can't remember what the other wire is for, but its for a gsr swap.
The harness didn't come with instructions?
The harness didn't come with instructions?
I finally got some more turbo stuff today.





I think I will install the fuel pump today...
I still need to get some 440 or 450 injectors also still waiting on my ecu





I think I will install the fuel pump today...
I still need to get some 440 or 450 injectors also still waiting on my ecu
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anyone have a sound clip of what this blow off might sound like? Could I route it back into the intake for the turbo to cancel the sound?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Anyone have a sound clip of what this blow off might sound like? Could I route it back into the intake for the turbo to cancel the sound?





